The custom fabrication thread! (Post pics of stuff you have made)
#881
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
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Took a short break from welding- Im back at it again though.
1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
1.6 Miata EFR manifold done. Going to jig up a downpipe for it and then jig up 1.8L EFR kits!
1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
1.6L Miata EFR Manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
1.6 Miata EFR manifold done. Going to jig up a downpipe for it and then jig up 1.8L EFR kits!
Last edited by shlammed; 10-16-2014 at 06:35 PM.
#882
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Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
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I can't remember if i posted this or not.
Now that i'm at my new job i hardly ever do any fabrication. I dearly miss working at the fab shop. I still get some jobs from time to time.
Old dirty stainless. Combination of tig and stainless mig welded.
These came out for repairs because sulfuric acid.
We got a guy on our team who thinks he's the best fabricator in the world with the reasoning of "i've been doing it longer than you". Nevermind i went to school for it, got certified, and worked in an actual fab shop making parts people actually pay for. So he does the majority of the fabricating just because i don't feel like arguing.
His finest:
Didn't grind paint / zinc away and didn't even weld the seam.
Now that i'm at my new job i hardly ever do any fabrication. I dearly miss working at the fab shop. I still get some jobs from time to time.
Old dirty stainless. Combination of tig and stainless mig welded.
These came out for repairs because sulfuric acid.
We got a guy on our team who thinks he's the best fabricator in the world with the reasoning of "i've been doing it longer than you". Nevermind i went to school for it, got certified, and worked in an actual fab shop making parts people actually pay for. So he does the majority of the fabricating just because i don't feel like arguing.
His finest:
Didn't grind paint / zinc away and didn't even weld the seam.
#884
Thanks!
Here's the build thread for more info and pics: Rodan's rear bumper build - FSB Forums
Hinges and recovery points came from Tire Carrier Parts & Accessories | Competition 4x4
Here's the build thread for more info and pics: Rodan's rear bumper build - FSB Forums
Hinges and recovery points came from Tire Carrier Parts & Accessories | Competition 4x4
#889
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
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its not a speaker, its a sub.
Hopefully have it together this weekend, minus one side maybe if im still sealing the wood. I hate smelling MDF in cars/houses with fresh boxes so im going to seal the wood inside and out.
Im using a Dayton Audio 1,000W plate amp, some grill material on a removable grille face, with T-nuts and heavy duty hardware. It should be good for some serious bass. Im mostly interested in movies, but I am building it for response with music too.
Design:
Plus bracing that I don't have listed in that draft.
Hopefully have it together this weekend, minus one side maybe if im still sealing the wood. I hate smelling MDF in cars/houses with fresh boxes so im going to seal the wood inside and out.
Im using a Dayton Audio 1,000W plate amp, some grill material on a removable grille face, with T-nuts and heavy duty hardware. It should be good for some serious bass. Im mostly interested in movies, but I am building it for response with music too.
Design:
Plus bracing that I don't have listed in that draft.
#891
What driver is that? I've got a 12" sonosub with the Dayton copy of the Adire Audio Shiva (Shiva was discontinued when Adire went under) in my movie theater, but am leaning towards augmenting that with either a single or pair of 15's. Dayton has some solid candidates including the Ultimax, reference series, and Titanic drivers, but that beast from TC sounds is one heck of a driver...
#892
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Its a new old stock subwoofer a friend gave me.
1st gen power acoustic fubar 15. Made before Power Acoustik went cheap build on their stuff. The sub is likely 10 years old.
93db sensitivity, 1000wrms/2000max, 13mm xmax, FS @ 27hz.
I will be stretching it to make it down to the frequencies for home theatre. The box is designed for flat response 20hz to iirc 45/50hz with a slow fall to 80hz where I assume my bose 701's will pick up.
This will bring me up to a 2.1 for the home theatre, driven my a Denon AVR-1913 (7.1 receiver). Im not wasting time with crappy speakers for surrounds- there is nothing to be gained by that.
1st gen power acoustic fubar 15. Made before Power Acoustik went cheap build on their stuff. The sub is likely 10 years old.
93db sensitivity, 1000wrms/2000max, 13mm xmax, FS @ 27hz.
I will be stretching it to make it down to the frequencies for home theatre. The box is designed for flat response 20hz to iirc 45/50hz with a slow fall to 80hz where I assume my bose 701's will pick up.
This will bring me up to a 2.1 for the home theatre, driven my a Denon AVR-1913 (7.1 receiver). Im not wasting time with crappy speakers for surrounds- there is nothing to be gained by that.
#894
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A 15" subwoofer vs 2 15" woofers like you would have in your speakers are two different things. I agree though, this will really liven up the low end
Running the Bose 701s alone is nice, but the low end really falls off as you turn it up. They are great main speakers though, and have 2 8" woofers per cabinet for midbass.
This should totally rock anything and everything commercially available in the same price range.
Running the Bose 701s alone is nice, but the low end really falls off as you turn it up. They are great main speakers though, and have 2 8" woofers per cabinet for midbass.
This should totally rock anything and everything commercially available in the same price range.
#895
Built a subwwofer enclosure last year
Dual opposed 12" sealed Infinity drivers. Found the design online and liked how small it was. Also had great numbers. All birch, all corners mitered, double layered with glue front and back, and a slotted in brace section in the middle. Additional bracing to tie the front middle and back together.
Dual Opposed Infinity Reference 1262W | Audioholics Home Theater Forums
Using 1/2 this amp (The QSC PLX is probably too nice of an amp to use for just a sub but you get out what you put in):
QSC PLX1602 Power Amp at zZounds
More than powerful enough to move the couch, but very clean.
Always wanted to make a grill/cover. Maybe you have inspired me to make the speaker cloth grills. I had to free hand the outside holes since I didn't have a router to finish them off and they look okay, but they bother me.
Also have a single 12" sealed in another enclosure for fill using the other 1/2 of the amp.
Dual Opposed Infinity Reference 1262W | Audioholics Home Theater Forums
Using 1/2 this amp (The QSC PLX is probably too nice of an amp to use for just a sub but you get out what you put in):
QSC PLX1602 Power Amp at zZounds
More than powerful enough to move the couch, but very clean.
Always wanted to make a grill/cover. Maybe you have inspired me to make the speaker cloth grills. I had to free hand the outside holes since I didn't have a router to finish them off and they look okay, but they bother me.
Also have a single 12" sealed in another enclosure for fill using the other 1/2 of the amp.
#896
update on the death scooter. I screwed up my first order from hobby king and it took 2 months to figure it out since the quoted shipping time from hong kong was 45 days. Then I realized I could specify the american warehouse, pay $2 more for the parts and save $10 on shipping and get it in a week. Finished it all up, and drove about 10 feet before the battery popped, they're sending me a new one. I think I can fix the first one, the connection at one of the main wires just must have been poorly made.
It was completely absolutely stupid for those 10 feet through. Literally the first time I hit the gas it just shot out from under my feet so fast that I landed on my feet like nothing happened. I might feature creep the **** out of it though, if I nuke the battery again and get a 3rd one from them. I found a way to use an arduino and 2 mosfet shields to make a 360A motor controller for ~$50 which should cover the 250A that this motor can pull.
It was completely absolutely stupid for those 10 feet through. Literally the first time I hit the gas it just shot out from under my feet so fast that I landed on my feet like nothing happened. I might feature creep the **** out of it though, if I nuke the battery again and get a 3rd one from them. I found a way to use an arduino and 2 mosfet shields to make a 360A motor controller for ~$50 which should cover the 250A that this motor can pull.
#900
Ive been flat out with all sorts of builds. Im currently working on what is probably the highest HP BP anyone here has ever seen. Unfortunately its part of some promo so im not allowed to post photos of the bay or the car until someones article is printed on it.
Its going to go 550wKW- over 700whp. This isnt a lot more than it has previously made so Im convinced it will.
Here is some shots of some stuff Im doing for it, and a whole bunch of other shiny parts.
This duct work.
Exhaust and **** on this fella.
NC circuit car exhaust
V bands for a 550whp S13 downpipe.
Built this as well,
Everyone will want to kill me for this one.
And a cool shot at work.
Dann
Its going to go 550wKW- over 700whp. This isnt a lot more than it has previously made so Im convinced it will.
Here is some shots of some stuff Im doing for it, and a whole bunch of other shiny parts.
This duct work.
Exhaust and **** on this fella.
NC circuit car exhaust
V bands for a 550whp S13 downpipe.
Built this as well,
Everyone will want to kill me for this one.
And a cool shot at work.
Dann