Would port matching my Skunk2 to FlatTop lose power?
#42
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The S90 would easily bolt up to a squaretop with an adapter plate or tapping directly into the end plate. You'd need an aftermarket ECU though to connect the required TPS and Map sensors.
#43
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I would advise that it may be better to push in the clutch and let the engine bounce off the limiter rather than crashing into a wall. But that's just me.
#45
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The Skunk2 TB is poorly designed and engineered. Pretty well made but that doesn't help. Between Andrew, myself and a few others, Skunk2 has had the info needed to correct the 8 or so flaws for about 4 years. IIRC, they have fixed one and band aided two others. The guys in customer service seem to care. They are powerless to effect change though and the owner does not care. Thus, the TB is as good as it gets until someone comes along and does it right. Still safer than a reworked OEM. The one and only $500 "prepped" OEM TB I bought from "the guy" for our STL broke about 20 minutes in.
A proper TB solution is on my long list. Probably never happen though, too many other projects..
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#46
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Are the skunk2 design issues inherent to the miata s2 throttle body, or all s2 throttle bodies. Although a properly designed bolt on throttle body is the "best solution" as madjak suggested an adapter plate for a known bulletproof throttle body is a damn good bandaid.
#47
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Almost all Junk2 stuff is universal chinese stuff that they "engineer" adapters to basically.
We were just laughing at how the bolts that came with OP's for the IACV adapter were both wrong, both too short. Had to source our own.
I always laugh when the owner/advertiser/pr guy for that janky company says they "engineer" stuff in house and all that.
We were just laughing at how the bolts that came with OP's for the IACV adapter were both wrong, both too short. Had to source our own.
I always laugh when the owner/advertiser/pr guy for that janky company says they "engineer" stuff in house and all that.
#50
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When I get the time I'll line up the S90 against a stock manifold and see whats involved in getting it to fit. 70mm is getting pretty large for a stock motor though and thats the smallest they make.
#56
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SAE corrections are based on both ambient temperature and barometric pressure, so if you aren't doing the A-B on the same day, you absolutely need both measurements to accurately compensate. You're talking about a party that's been shown to add ~2-3whp at best to an optimized setup, so your data needs to be virtually perfect to even see the difference. Splitting hairs? Yes, but at <2% gains, you need to.
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In theory, or on the street, sure. On track though, a fast driver will stay at WOT up until the very last few ms to keep the tire at optimum slip angle, then lift. Any longer and you fly off. Throttle sticks and event the quickest reaction is usually too slow. You fly off.
#58
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On the 70mm Honda Skunk2, the TPS connector fixes to the throttle shaft via a M2 sized screw that is just ridiculously undersized. I had it come loose even after loctiting it. I pulled this screw out and drilled the throttle shaft out larger, tapped and then fastened it in with a M3 bolt and loctite. After that I took out every bolt, checked it and loctited it back in, and put a locking nut on the throttle wheel stop.
I would think that the S2 for the Miata would be very similar in design.
Next event the little pins on the TPS connector bent and lost engagement with the TPS. I then decided it wasn't worth running so swapped it out with a S90.
I would think that the S2 for the Miata would be very similar in design.
Next event the little pins on the TPS connector bent and lost engagement with the TPS. I then decided it wasn't worth running so swapped it out with a S90.
#59
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SAE corrections are based on both ambient temperature and barometric pressure, so if you aren't doing the A-B on the same day, you absolutely need both measurements to accurately compensate. You're talking about a party that's been shown to add ~2-3whp at best to an optimized setup, so your data needs to be virtually perfect to even see the difference. Splitting hairs? Yes, but at <2% gains, you need to.
#60
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The problem with this stuff is that until you get the car on a dyno and try it's all just theory. I've heard that a simple bellmouth merged into the OEM throttle body of a 180whp fully developed NA8 is worth 3-4whp. The car was on the dyno for 2 days, trialing different combinations of intake lengths and bellmouth sizes and positions. Move the bellmouth away from the throttle body by 100mm and it would lose the gain. This result would have cost thousands of dollars in dyno time and development but when you are chasing that last 5% you have to do the trial and error.
Put that same bellmouth and throttle body setup on a different intake or engine with different cams and the result could be the complete opposite.