Ill start with this, I have done my research! Found all I can with google and forum post searches for the past week. Please no trolls, arguments, or posts that distract from the build (outside topics). If you haven't done this, or have knowledgeable links to others who have, please don't post.

Car: 2000 NB1 Miata, 165k miles, 1.8l

Idea: Swap a 04 NB2 Miata 1.8l VVT motor

Reason: My car is dumping oil at an alarming rate. My buddy has this motor for a very good price, I need the practice tuning, LOVE projects and something to work on. Also need the head off my y2k for my 96 (the 96 has a head leak and bad work from the PO mechanic)

Plan: Swap motors out on my car. Install a aftermarket computer, and keep my current coil pack for now.

What I need to know: I understand some one is doing this same swap only into a older NA. I really wanted to know the similarities in the NB2 and NB1 motors and wiring. From what I found (others doing the same swap) the NB2 and NB1 motors have the same sensors (for the most part) with a few in different places. I cant seem to find a list though of what exactly is in the same place, what needs to be extended/moved, and what needs to be added or rewired.

The new motor (from what I understand) has the wiring still attached, just cut at the back of the motor (having it in my hands would help).

Also, I may not have the VVT controller right away. I read the motor can be ran with the VVT unplugged, and it reverts full retard, is this true? Should I hold off on the swap tell I have the full computer ready to go, or is it ok to run with VVT disabled for a month or so. I read something about the timing being controlled from oil pressure as well? How exactly dose it work, off the motor, or off the 04 computer?

Some people talked about swapping the NB1 intake mani on the NB2 head. Is this really worth it, and I don't think the EGR tube will work (emissions, Ill figure out getting it to pass latter). I looked threw a post where someone hollowed out the NB2 intake mani to better flow air threw the butterfly valves, but saw no gains on the dino. I could just remove them from the new head before installing it, but leave the actuator intact to fool the computer.

I'm planning on running the 04 injectors, unless anyone feels I should install my current ones. Know its a small, but notable size difference (more or less 240cc vs 270cc?)

I have a plan to make a bracket for my coil pack, don't know yet if Ill need longer wires or not. Currently have NGK blues,

I gave my buddy my word I would buy the motor, so I'm getting it (to keep or sell). I would rebuild my motor, but with a new job just don't have the time, and don't want to spend the HUGE amount of money I would end up investing in it (I always get the best bang for buck, and its not always small bucks)

Think thats everything...?

What other complications might I run into? Would really like feed back from the VERY knowledgeable, hopefully who have done this.

 

Create a frankenharness for the injectors and the ignition coils, that bit of harness is radically different (signal to coils in NB1 are ground wires in VVT) between NB1 and VVT, the rest is the same (except the location of the cam sensor, just split the harness a bit).
If you keep the NB1 coil pack you can just transfer over the harness and figure out a way to mount the coils.

I have the BP4W engine for inspections and the VVT engine for all other purposes. With the frankenharness on the VVT the two engines are plug and play.
The same EGRtube on both, the same header for both.
BP4W have the stock VICS intake and the VVT have the squaretop.

I only have to switch the fuel rail over since i have the EU/JP return system, might not apply to you (no idea where you're located).

 

Will adapting the wires over be obvious and straight foreword for the for the smart and clever? If not, do you have a "whats what to where" wire guide, or do I just need to dig up a diagram?

Thanks for the info. Relocating the one cam sensor to the rear will be easy. Already had everything apart when relocating my cali o2 sensor from the front of the motor to the rear. Ended up poping the wires from the plug so I could pull them threw on the harness and not bunch um up like some hack job :P

 

Swapping the harness over would be simple and obvious for one with some patience. Some holes and mounts on the rear of the head and valve cover is different (some ground points and of course the mounting of the coil pack).
It's the same connector mount at the front of the engine, same clips on the fuel rail, same connectors to injectors, same position and connector to the water temp sensor...

 

Thanks for the list, very helpfull. Sounds like my next step is researching making my own wiring harnes with a disconect at the fire wall. Build the wiring on the new motor, then when I swap all I should have to do wiring wise is make the plug on the cars side for a "PNP" motor :P


I'm def a do it right or not at all guy, and the jobs not done tell its done right.

 

No need to make a new harness, the harness you have will be perfect as-is (plug and play) if you transfer the injector harness over from the BP4W to the VVT.
Only the Cam sensor is moved and you have to figure out how to mount the coil pack.

OK, the oil pressure switch is moved an inch or two but the cable can manage the redirection.

 

Was going to just use parts from each harness to make the new one, looking into that.

How do I wire the COPs to the 99-00 wiring?

 

I don't remember if the connectors are identical, I guess not from some discussions here.
I stole the COP connectors form a VVT engine harness and added the to my frankenharness.
Using a NB1 injector/coil harness it's just a question of elongating the coil connectors with the COP connector pigtails. Make the lengths right so it's dead easy to connect the COPs correctly (and not switch the 1-4 with the 2-3).

 

I'm sure it will all be obvious once I get my hands on it, but I like doing ALL my research before diving into something. I always end up hitting road blocks if not.

My main question is bc of the vvt wired into the plug wires. As mentioned, I should use my NB1 injector plugs, so no worries on vvt bs there, but Ill still be dealing with it on the COPs (now that I found out I'm getting them).

Some one said in a post to zip tie the coil pack in place and roll with it! lol, I might could get away with it for a week, tell I get the COPs working, but not banking on zip ties!

 

Just to give you a heads up, to use "TOYOTA" COP or the NB1 plug wires & coils, you will have to open the holes up in the valve cover to about 1". The head is the same size, but the plug hole in the vvt valve cover are smaller.

 

"COP" can also mean the 01-05 wastespark coils which will be very bolt on mechanically.
These are the ones I've assumed, not a word about Toyota, VW, LSx, ...

 

Yes, I thought 01+ motors had coil on plugs?

I have looked around, but not found a "how to" on wiring the new plugs to the NB1 coil pack wiring.