Something tells me...
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cocoa Beach, FL
Posts: 851
Total Cats: 16
No, not that hole. it's to the right of the oil squirter hole. It looks like it was just bashed out of the block, but I'm not sure how that would happen. The oil looked like poo when I drained it, so coolant was obviously mixing. I just figured it was a head gasket issue or warping issue that could be fixed with a grind and a thicker gasket if necessary, but I have a feeling the coolant was leaking in from this gaping hole.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cocoa Beach, FL
Posts: 851
Total Cats: 16
This timing belt gear is a PITA to get off. I've been working it slowly for an hour and it's still only half way off.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cocoa Beach, FL
Posts: 851
Total Cats: 16
Thanks again. I guess I didn't really look at them yet. It's pretty obvious there aren't only 6pts when you look at it. Good thing I didn't just go out and buy the sockets.
Everything looks good from what I can tell. How can I tell if the head gasket was leaking? Are there any other places I should look for coolant to mix with the oil? Oil pump maybe?
When I build the motor, I'll replace the oil and water pump as well as have the block and head milled flat if necessary. I want to make the motor as reliable as possible, so just replacing rods and pistons with forged, getting a port and polish on the head, hone on cylinder walls (almost all original hone marks are still there and no noticeable scratches, so don't think I need an overbore), ARP hardware, new gaskets and bearings. I want it to handle 300whp, but I'm only going to run about 250whp. My turbo won't handle more than that anyway.
Everything looks good from what I can tell. How can I tell if the head gasket was leaking? Are there any other places I should look for coolant to mix with the oil? Oil pump maybe?
When I build the motor, I'll replace the oil and water pump as well as have the block and head milled flat if necessary. I want to make the motor as reliable as possible, so just replacing rods and pistons with forged, getting a port and polish on the head, hone on cylinder walls (almost all original hone marks are still there and no noticeable scratches, so don't think I need an overbore), ARP hardware, new gaskets and bearings. I want it to handle 300whp, but I'm only going to run about 250whp. My turbo won't handle more than that anyway.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zaphod
MEGAsquirt
47
10-26-2018 11:00 PM