Running in new cams
#1
Running in new cams
My blink spec cams are to arrive soon.
Does anyone have any advice on breaking them in. I've swapped cams before but only used ones. The new ones are regrinds so I assume I have to break them in?
Also pipers site says to never use old lifters?! I assume all you guys that have swapped new cams in haven't swapped out all 16 HLA's for new ones?
16 new HLA's are £432.00 from Mazda. I am not paying that. No way.
Help appreciated.
Connor.
Does anyone have any advice on breaking them in. I've swapped cams before but only used ones. The new ones are regrinds so I assume I have to break them in?
Also pipers site says to never use old lifters?! I assume all you guys that have swapped new cams in haven't swapped out all 16 HLA's for new ones?
16 new HLA's are £432.00 from Mazda. I am not paying that. No way.
Help appreciated.
Connor.
#9
Cam manufacturers recommend new lifters due to the wear patterns of the cam and lifters as they age. The lifters start square then belly in the middle. The old cams follow that pattern over time. With a new cam and old lifters you will not have even contact patch thus creating hot spots that could cause pitting on the cams. A machinist could tell you how bad or good your old lifters are.
Use a high ZDDP oil for break in. Brad Penn, Swepco or amsoil break in oil. Run motor for 2k+ for 20 mins and you're done.
If you choose to ignor the above you may get lucky and have no problems. On the other hand I have seen cams die in 20mins from not using new lifters, cheap oil and not breaking it in properly.
Use a high ZDDP oil for break in. Brad Penn, Swepco or amsoil break in oil. Run motor for 2k+ for 20 mins and you're done.
If you choose to ignor the above you may get lucky and have no problems. On the other hand I have seen cams die in 20mins from not using new lifters, cheap oil and not breaking it in properly.
Last edited by k24madness; 01-18-2014 at 05:52 AM.
#11
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Of course the people who actually make the cams have no ******* idea what you should do with them. You know so much more. Definitely run the old lifters to show those bastards who knows more.
#12
Cam manufacturers recommend new lifters due to the wear patterns of the cam and lifters as they age. The lifters start square then belly in the middle. The old cams follow that pattern over time. With a new cam and old lifters you will not have even contact patch thus creating hot spots that could cause pitting on the cams. A machinist could tell you how bad or good your old lifters are.
Use a high ZDDP oil for break in. Brad Penn, Swepco or amsoil break in oil. Run motor for 2k+ for 20 mins and you're done.
If you choose to ignor the above you may get lucky and have no problems. On the other hand I have seen cams die in 20mins from not using new lifters, cheap oil and not breaking it in properly.
Use a high ZDDP oil for break in. Brad Penn, Swepco or amsoil break in oil. Run motor for 2k+ for 20 mins and you're done.
If you choose to ignor the above you may get lucky and have no problems. On the other hand I have seen cams die in 20mins from not using new lifters, cheap oil and not breaking it in properly.
Would this apply to solid lifters also? I would think the shims would develop wear patterns also.
#13
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That was going to be my question. I had always heard to never mix new cams / old lifters or vice versa....But when you change shims in your shim over bucket lifters you are fine? What gives there?
#14
Because the shim is the surface the cam rides on, with SUB or hydros you need to change the whole unit because the top wearing surface is integral to the lifter.
If you are asking why you need new lifters with a new cam, and not a new cam with new lifters. I would imagine you are safer once the cam is broken in and has a solid wear surface.
If you are asking why you need new lifters with a new cam, and not a new cam with new lifters. I would imagine you are safer once the cam is broken in and has a solid wear surface.
#18
Well there in and run in. Spoke to a local engine builder ( the guys who did my head work ) and he said it'll be fine with used HLA's so I just fitted them on the old HLA's covered in engine oil. I ran them in for 25 mins at varying rpms between 2500 and 4000. I've Been thrashing it to death for a few days and took the cam cover off yesterday to check the lobes and it all looks fine. I changed the oil and filter just to be safe but there were no shavings I could see in the filter.
Cams made a decent improvement aswell so I'm happy.
Cams made a decent improvement aswell so I'm happy.
#19
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I just picked up a set of lightly used Sub in the mt classifieds, should i be concerned with using new cams? The seller stated only ran for hours and i see no wear pattern on them. There is some light scuffing which i could polish out if needed?
#20
Well there in and run in. Spoke to a local engine builder ( the guys who did my head work ) and he said it'll be fine with used HLA's so I just fitted them on the old HLA's covered in engine oil. I ran them in for 25 mins at varying rpms between 2500 and 4000. I've Been thrashing it to death for a few days and took the cam cover off yesterday to check the lobes and it all looks fine. I changed the oil and filter just to be safe but there were no shavings I could see in the filter.
Cams made a decent improvement aswell so I'm happy.
Cams made a decent improvement aswell so I'm happy.
It's one thing for you to take a gamble and roll the dice with used lifters.... It's another thing for a so-called "engine builder" to tell you this is acceptable.