Part numbers for a 475whp 2.0L stroker
#1
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Part numbers for a 475whp 2.0L stroker
I've figured out part numbers for the 2.0 motor that MikeF85 used to make 474whp.
Pistons:
JE Pistons
PN: 185918
http://www.jepistons.com/Products/185918.aspx
Intended for a Honda B20B4 with a B16A3 head.
Bore: 3.346" ~85mm
Stroke: 3.504
Rod Length: 5.394"
Comp Height: 1.181
Weight: 297
Inverted dome volume 11.9
Rods:
Manufactured by Pauter.
The rods don't have part numbers on them, but they do have a job number of 0702s. By using the specs listed for the piston, and the Pauter website, it would point us to HON-210-480-1370F found here.
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g
I've sent an email to them asking to confirm this detail. Do yall know if the listed rods will work? I'm not 100% sure on these.
The ones used here aren't cheap, but that doesn't mean there aren't other vendors making decent quality pistons and rods for this application IE: supertech, belfab.
Couple this with the correct offset crank grind and you have yourself a very potent 2 liter.
Pistons:
JE Pistons
PN: 185918
http://www.jepistons.com/Products/185918.aspx
Intended for a Honda B20B4 with a B16A3 head.
Bore: 3.346" ~85mm
Stroke: 3.504
Rod Length: 5.394"
Comp Height: 1.181
Weight: 297
Inverted dome volume 11.9
Rods:
Manufactured by Pauter.
The rods don't have part numbers on them, but they do have a job number of 0702s. By using the specs listed for the piston, and the Pauter website, it would point us to HON-210-480-1370F found here.
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g
I've sent an email to them asking to confirm this detail. Do yall know if the listed rods will work? I'm not 100% sure on these.
The ones used here aren't cheap, but that doesn't mean there aren't other vendors making decent quality pistons and rods for this application IE: supertech, belfab.
Couple this with the correct offset crank grind and you have yourself a very potent 2 liter.
#3
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You'd need an offset grind on the crank to achieve the extra stroke. Coolest part is that you can still use an OEM head gasket. I don't know the details on that, but a crank shop would. I know the piston is correct. I had to replace one in this motor. Still waiting on confirmation for the rods.
#8
I meant to check the specs on the rods when they had that motor apart so we could have this info public. Thanks for not being as lazy as I was. More than likely those will be some honda rods so you can get some cheaper Eagle rods instead of pauters.
Hopefully we can figure out exactly where to grind the offest of the crank to get it perfect. I don't know if it is all the way out or not. Let me know what you find.
Hopefully we can figure out exactly where to grind the offest of the crank to get it perfect. I don't know if it is all the way out or not. Let me know what you find.
#9
I've looked into this awhile back and the biggest holdup is finding a good place to do the offset grind as not that many places are well versed at doing it with a miata crank. Sure, I found a few places willing to give it a go, but didn't really want to be a test dummy. At one of the better shops in CA that does race cranks, it was a 12-18 month wait. YMMV.
#11
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I think John Day built that motor.
http://www.daycustomengine.com/DCE/
Tell him Trey sent you.
If It was Automotive machine in Arlington, stay away. If it was Brian Stoid, run away (history of selling "built motors" with stock internals or milling the deck enough to hit the head.
http://www.daycustomengine.com/DCE/
Tell him Trey sent you.
If It was Automotive machine in Arlington, stay away. If it was Brian Stoid, run away (history of selling "built motors" with stock internals or milling the deck enough to hit the head.
#14
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From Pauter:
I guess we won't know until I pull the motor apart again.
Mr Toler,
The "0702S" isn't anything we would typically mark on the rod. Could you send us a picture of the rod and marking?
Thanks,
Brian
The "0702S" isn't anything we would typically mark on the rod. Could you send us a picture of the rod and marking?
Thanks,
Brian
#16
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so is there a link or a contact to the guy building the stroker motor? maybe if we can find a shop thats compatint enough we can do a group buy and have a bunch of cranks done at once, if we had info i bet Travis may have some connections, doesnt anyone work from FM on here? they need to give up the ghost, no one can afford 4k for a stroker unless you got deep pockets then you might as well do a ls1 swap ect
#19
OK Compared the Honda rods you listed to the stock miata rods. Pretty interesting:
Honda
HON-210-480-1370F
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g
Mazda
MAZ-200-480-1328F
Pin dia .787”
B E bore 1.890””
Length 5.228”
B E width .860”
The crank bore is exactly the same on the mazda vs the honda rods. The length is just a hair longer on the honda units but maybe that is where they are getting the extra displacement from with a shorter piston but a longer rod.
The only problem I see is the width of the big end at .935 instead of .860, but the rods could just be machined slimmer right?
I do remeber that machine shop saying that the rod bearings he got for that engine were from a honda, so maybe there is space to have the whole rod big end in there.
Honda
HON-210-480-1370F
Pin dia .827”
B E bore 1.890”
Length 5.394”
B E width .935”
Weight 560g
Mazda
MAZ-200-480-1328F
Pin dia .787”
B E bore 1.890””
Length 5.228”
B E width .860”
The crank bore is exactly the same on the mazda vs the honda rods. The length is just a hair longer on the honda units but maybe that is where they are getting the extra displacement from with a shorter piston but a longer rod.
The only problem I see is the width of the big end at .935 instead of .860, but the rods could just be machined slimmer right?
I do remeber that machine shop saying that the rod bearings he got for that engine were from a honda, so maybe there is space to have the whole rod big end in there.