oil pressure?
#5
It is normal for cold oil pressure to be quite a bit higher than hot oil pressure due to the viscosity change of the oil. And we don't mean hot as in "coolant temperature at mid-range." We're talking 15-20 minutes of loaded operation after that -- it takes time for the oil to come up to temperature.
#6
It is normal for cold oil pressure to be quite a bit higher than hot oil pressure due to the viscosity change of the oil. And we don't mean hot as in "coolant temperature at mid-range." We're talking 15-20 minutes of loaded operation after that -- it takes time for the oil to come up to temperature.
its within normal limits at idle after warmup, but a little throttle changes that quickly
#7
Boost Pope
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All else being equal, assuming your gauge is accurate and your engine is in good health, we expect the oil pressure to behave roughly as follows:
When cold:
Idle = 30-50 PSI
3,00 RPM = 60-70 PSI
When warm:
Idle = 20-30 PSI
3,000 RPM = 60 PSI.
These numbers are not from the manual, just my personal experience.
If the warm oil pressure exceeds 60 PSI by a great amount, this may be indicative that the oil pressure control valve inside the oil pump is stuck closed. It's harder to make accurate judgements about cold oil pressure, simply because it's thick enough to out-flow the valve.
When cold:
Idle = 30-50 PSI
3,00 RPM = 60-70 PSI
When warm:
Idle = 20-30 PSI
3,000 RPM = 60 PSI.
These numbers are not from the manual, just my personal experience.
If the warm oil pressure exceeds 60 PSI by a great amount, this may be indicative that the oil pressure control valve inside the oil pump is stuck closed. It's harder to make accurate judgements about cold oil pressure, simply because it's thick enough to out-flow the valve.
#8
All else being equal, assuming your gauge is accurate and your engine is in good health, we expect the oil pressure to behave roughly as follows:
When cold:
Idle = 30-50 PSI
3,00 RPM = 60-70 PSI
When warm:
Idle = 20-30 PSI
3,000 RPM = 60 PSI.
These numbers are not from the manual, just my personal experience.
If the warm oil pressure exceeds 60 PSI by a great amount, this may be indicative that the oil pressure control valve inside the oil pump is stuck closed. It's harder to make accurate judgements about cold oil pressure, simply because it's thick enough to out-flow the valve.
When cold:
Idle = 30-50 PSI
3,00 RPM = 60-70 PSI
When warm:
Idle = 20-30 PSI
3,000 RPM = 60 PSI.
These numbers are not from the manual, just my personal experience.
If the warm oil pressure exceeds 60 PSI by a great amount, this may be indicative that the oil pressure control valve inside the oil pump is stuck closed. It's harder to make accurate judgements about cold oil pressure, simply because it's thick enough to out-flow the valve.
i wouldnt doubt that the gauge is fucked though, because the tach is about 1k higher than actual RPM's at ALL times... idk what this guy did... didnt care too much for the last few years, because it was just a DD/toy, but i wanna get it all straight, and all these little quirks are pissing me off... lol
#14
Boost Pope
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Quite possible.
There have been a couple of different NA gauge clusters. On my '90, for instance, there is no indicator space in that position. So it could well be the HT defroster, which was not available in that year. (My gauge cluster also lacks the cutout for the washer fluid light, as ABS wasn't available in '90. But that light goes in the center, between the speedo and tach.)
There have been a couple of different NA gauge clusters. On my '90, for instance, there is no indicator space in that position. So it could well be the HT defroster, which was not available in that year. (My gauge cluster also lacks the cutout for the washer fluid light, as ABS wasn't available in '90. But that light goes in the center, between the speedo and tach.)
#15
Quite possible.
There have been a couple of different NA gauge clusters. On my '90, for instance, there is no indicator space in that position. So it could well be the HT defroster, which was not available in that year. (My gauge cluster also lacks the cutout for the washer fluid light, as ABS wasn't available in '90. But that light goes in the center, between the speedo and tach.)
There have been a couple of different NA gauge clusters. On my '90, for instance, there is no indicator space in that position. So it could well be the HT defroster, which was not available in that year. (My gauge cluster also lacks the cutout for the washer fluid light, as ABS wasn't available in '90. But that light goes in the center, between the speedo and tach.)
#16
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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The defogger wiring was added in late '91 for the '92 model year, I'm not sure when the number of idiot-light positions in the cluster was increased.
Here's what my '90 instrument panel looks like:
You'll note that it's missing both the rectangular light above the fuel gauge (rear defogger) as well as the two round lights to the left and right of the central square panel (ABS and washer fluid.)
Sidebar: if you do a Google Images search for Miata Instrument Cluster, this guy shows up:
Here's what my '90 instrument panel looks like:
You'll note that it's missing both the rectangular light above the fuel gauge (rear defogger) as well as the two round lights to the left and right of the central square panel (ABS and washer fluid.)
Sidebar: if you do a Google Images search for Miata Instrument Cluster, this guy shows up:
Last edited by Joe Perez; 04-28-2013 at 08:34 PM.
#17
yup, thats what alot of the clusters i found online looked like. thats why my little rectangle cornfused me. i would almost prefer that cluster... although, being that none of those extra indicators are lit up, it doesnt really bother me too much.
Thanks man!!
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