New Harmonic Balancer from SuperMiata
10-29-2012 | 07:03 PM
#62
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
I don't think the damper will make that much of a difference that you can notice it from the driver's seat. I have driven BP's with the ATI damper and not noticed anything. The BP's I have driven that were fully balanced however, felt far smoother than any other BP. The best were like a long rod ratio Honda inline 4 in smoothness.
The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.
For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230° range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280°. That kills mains.
I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.
The two things we seen broken the most from mechanical over revs are bent valves and dead main bearings. Mostly the valves. In one instance, a cracked main cap. ST single springs shimmed for another 10# or so of seat pressure good to high 8's. Above 8700-8900, you need the dual valve springs. You pay a price in seat wear, cam wear and heat with the monster valve springs though.
For mains, just run lots oil pressure, race oil with lotsa zinc and King or ACL race bearings. We try to configure things to keep oil temps below 240 and ideally in the 220~230° range. That takes a 10-15 row Setrab and -10 lines. If the oil system is dialed it should still be close to 30psi idling hot and 70+ on top.
Stocker without a cooler will see 10-15psi at idle and barely 55psi on top when the oil is cooking at 280°. That kills mains.
I need to get off my butt and put together an oil cooler kit for the site.
Did you ever look at my baller oil cooler set-up? I never went above 230*f at 250whp in 105*f Texas heat, tucked behind a Panoz. I use a 13-row. No cat, no care.
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10-29-2012 | 08:18 PM
#67
I'm lazy and don't always reset the shift lights for every different engine. I also set them far apart for enduros. When we're in cruise mode, we shift at the first light which is like 1000rpm early. In sprint races of course, we blow way past that before even looking at the lights.
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11-02-2012 | 03:34 PM
#74
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
If your car is a 2000 or older, plug-and-play models of the MS2 are available in either turnkey (MSPnP2) or semi-finished (DIYPnP) form, and for later cars, the traditional MS3 will work with the addition of a wiring harness. Either way, they'll run off of all your stock sensors.
The Adaptronic E440 is also available in plug-n-play form from Boundary Engineering for all years including '01-'05.
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11-02-2012 | 03:58 PM
#76
I believe the AEM can use the stock 4 point trigger wheel. Savington went with a 12 point just for better resolution and it is the max that AEM will read.
AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
AEM is PNP I believe for an 01, while an MS3X would need an adapter harness for it. Both will work for you and it just comes down to personal preference for which to use.
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11-02-2012 | 04:02 PM
#77
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 33,556
Total Cats: 6,933
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
You'll have to supply your own wiring harness, as (to the best of my knowledge) nobody has PnP harnii available for the '01-'05 Miatas (they have a really odd ECU connector which differs greatly from the '90-'00 cars) however you can greatly simplify the task by starting with a Boomslang extension harness (the car side) and adapting it to the MS's connectors on the ECU side. For all I know, Boomslang might even be able to build you the whole harness- the list PnP harnesses for a number of other applications.
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