The picture above shows a balancer for another car but this gives you and idea of what the Miata damper will look like.

10% off for the first 15 customers!

We have developed a new Harmonic Balancer for the B6 and BP series Miata engines with BHJ Dynamics. The pulleys are billet steel, the hub is billet aluminum. The one piece construction eliminates the four little 5m bolts that like to shear off at high RPM. This balancer is exclusive to 949 Racing/SuperMiata and will be also available through our dealer, Trackspeed Engineering.

What engine needs a new harmonic balancer?
The balancer does not increase power nor is it necessary on N/A engines using the stock redline. Where the balancer is critical is in high power and/or high rpm applications. Forced induction over 250whp? Redline over 7800rpm?
With either of those conditions you are well past the design limits of the OEM balancer. Excess vibration is hammering the bottom end of your engine and the tiny pulley bolts are stressed to the max. This balancer is sort of like adding billet oil pump gears; no extra power but a necessary materials and design upgrade to cope with the much higher loads of a high performance build. Insurance.

Trigger wheels
The optional proprietary trigger wheels are available in 12+1T and 4T. The 12+1T wheel can be used for 12-1T or 12T ECU applications with the appropriate tooth nipped off. The 4T is for 96-05 cars using the OEM triggering configuration. Those using a 1.6 style CAS triggered ignition can delete the trigger wheel and save another $107. OEM style trigger wheels will not fit this balancer.

Pulleys
Both pulleys are OEM diameter: 147mm inner, 130mm outer. Those with 1.6 engines will need to convert to 1.8 4-rib water pump pulley and alternator. No provision for 6 rib or 3rd pulley for Superchargers is currently planned. If you want an S/C pulley version, send me an email and I'll start a list.

Weight
The balancer is about 3.75 lbs. That saves about 1.4 lbs over the OEM part. This is about the minimum we can build and still have the required mass at the correct location to do it's job as a balancer.

Design and engineering
BHJ is a small engineering based company in Northern California. For this balancer, the actual crank vibrations and flexure were measured to come up with the design. This part is not a random guess by some guy with a big CNC mill

Some links describing the engineering processes:
Mathematical Torsional System Modeling
Dyno Test Validation
Evolution Design
Click here for a comprehensive technical document on harmonic damper purpose and operation.

Installation
This damper is a one piece design so it presses directly onto the crank. Ideally, you will use a harmonic balancer installation tool which can be purchased from BHJ or rented from us. Alternatively, you can cob up an installer from washers, bolts and axle grease but that requires some experience to do it right.

Ordering
The first full production run will run sort of like a group buy only the price will not change. You can order from 949Racing/SuperMiata or Trackspeed Engineering. The first production run will ship early October.

• SFI Certified
• Designed and Crafted in the USA (California!)
• Billet aluminum hub
• Billet steel pulleys
• One piece press on design
• 3.75 lbs (OEM is 5.15 lbs)
• 12T or 4T trigger wheel option

 

Cannot wait. Theseus broke two sets of balancer bolts last year, and when Rover broke a set earlier this summer, that was the final straw. I can't wait to get my hands on these.

 

You knows I'm in this one...

 

I'm also a member of the broken bolts club. Way cool piece Emilio. Thank you for continuing to innovate.

 

I assume I can't reuse my factory '99 timing wheel? I'd have to get a new one with the pulley? Anyone know what buttons to push in a Hydra to use the 12+1wheel or if it can use it?

Edit: I just realized what I said about reusing the old wheel. Never mind. Still, would the hydra use the 12+1? Might as well upgrade there too

 

Ugh would have bought if it was a week earlier

 

Payday on Saturday, will order then.

Must I pull the engine to get to this since it requires a press? If I break the timing belt, must I pull the engine to swap it out? I've never dealt with this type of press-on damper before so I'm effectively retarded. Will it work with the TSE 12-tooth wheel?

 

Damper has to come off to do timing belt. Drop sway bar out of the way to install. As stated above, not compatible with any other timing wheel other than the one we offer for it.

 

Oh, so broken bolts is not just me....

Why no 36 tooth option?

 

Little demand. Send me an email about it. If I get enough requests I can do it cost effectively. To do just one will run about $150 for the trigger wheel.

 

Hi Emilio.

Is this superior to the ATI or Fluidampr? If so, why?

 

vs $107 for a 4T/12T wheel or on top of the $107?
Also how do you torque down the crank bolt without using a crank tool, like this one -

 

^Car on the ground, in gear, E break on?

 

Dunno. Ours is simpler, lighter, costs less and was developed by actually measuring forces on a Miata crank.

vs $107. I was wondering how to torque it myself. I'll ask the engineer it it's necessary to machine dowel holes in the face and make a tool for that or something. How does one torque a fluidampr or ATI?

 

I assume process is similar to ati damper:

1. rear wheels on ground
2. car in gear, brake on
3. remove sway bar
4. remove raidoator for funses
5. lube crank with sweet tasty lube
6. mallet damper onto crank end
7. put biggie crank bolt into crank
8. take air gun out of ***
9. AIR GUN THE EVER LIVING SHIZ OUT OF BOLT
10. win

 

ftfy.

 

The last time I torqued down the crank bolt with "car on ground, in gear, e-brake HULK TIGHT", the crank bolt loosed it way out and started eating away my crank key.
like this - https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...nkshaft-66813/

well that's only $43, or like 10% more + whatever extra wait time. sounds good to me.

 

One of these bad boys will be going on my new engine. Too bad they're not available today, I'd just ask TSE to throw it on for me. Oh well looks, like I'll be doing a coolant flush in october.

 

Its funny because its 200% true.

 

I remember watching the 25hrs of TH and one of the teams pulled out an impact to tighten a crank bolt and promptly sheared it off, ending their run - thoughts of what dumb-*** team would use an impact to tighten a crank bolt?