NEED HELP. Efr6258 leaking oil on compressor side
#21
Holy ****, I was reading this and saw 2023 on most posts so I was surprised to see it say "Yesterday". Anyway.
I'm interested to hear what your compression numbers were during the dry tests before? I am having similar issues with a fresh rebuild (top and bottom). Prior to rebuild, compression was around 185 on all cylinders after 2.5 years of abuse. After, I'm seeing about 183, but with looser tolerances so I'm not surprised. I also knew my oil drain was kinked in places and inadequate for 6258. Fresh build I gapped rings to 0.019" as opposed to the 0.012" that the old motor had (because 12 thou is to way too tight). Now I'm experiencing what I can only consider to be a crazy amount of blowby and still have occasional puffs of smoke after high boost. Plenty of high vacuum following this will tend to clear up the residual oil and stop smoking
I'm interested to hear what your compression numbers were during the dry tests before? I am having similar issues with a fresh rebuild (top and bottom). Prior to rebuild, compression was around 185 on all cylinders after 2.5 years of abuse. After, I'm seeing about 183, but with looser tolerances so I'm not surprised. I also knew my oil drain was kinked in places and inadequate for 6258. Fresh build I gapped rings to 0.019" as opposed to the 0.012" that the old motor had (because 12 thou is to way too tight). Now I'm experiencing what I can only consider to be a crazy amount of blowby and still have occasional puffs of smoke after high boost. Plenty of high vacuum following this will tend to clear up the residual oil and stop smoking
#22
Holy ****, I was reading this and saw 2023 on most posts so I was surprised to see it say "Yesterday". Anyway.
I'm interested to hear what your compression numbers were during the dry tests before? I am having similar issues with a fresh rebuild (top and bottom). Prior to rebuild, compression was around 185 on all cylinders after 2.5 years of abuse. After, I'm seeing about 183, but with looser tolerances so I'm not surprised. I also knew my oil drain was kinked in places and inadequate for 6258. Fresh build I gapped rings to 0.019" as opposed to the 0.012" that the old motor had (because 12 thou is to way too tight). Now I'm experiencing what I can only consider to be a crazy amount of blowby and still have occasional puffs of smoke after high boost. Plenty of high vacuum following this will tend to clear up the residual oil and stop smoking
I'm interested to hear what your compression numbers were during the dry tests before? I am having similar issues with a fresh rebuild (top and bottom). Prior to rebuild, compression was around 185 on all cylinders after 2.5 years of abuse. After, I'm seeing about 183, but with looser tolerances so I'm not surprised. I also knew my oil drain was kinked in places and inadequate for 6258. Fresh build I gapped rings to 0.019" as opposed to the 0.012" that the old motor had (because 12 thou is to way too tight). Now I'm experiencing what I can only consider to be a crazy amount of blowby and still have occasional puffs of smoke after high boost. Plenty of high vacuum following this will tend to clear up the residual oil and stop smoking
I think your ring gap is fine. Mines 0.018. I think the issue lies with something that the machine shop did wrong on mine.
#25
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If every cylinder is low but equal, it's likely the tester and not the engine. Engines rarely fail evenly.
Many cheap compression testers are built wrong to get good numbers. A good compression tester should have the Schrader valve in the spark plug end of the adapter hose. That way only the air in the cylinder is being compressed. Cheap ones (like from Harbor Freight) have the Schrader valve in the gauge. Then you are compressing the air in the cylinder and the hoses (along with loses in the QD).
Many cheap compression testers are built wrong to get good numbers. A good compression tester should have the Schrader valve in the spark plug end of the adapter hose. That way only the air in the cylinder is being compressed. Cheap ones (like from Harbor Freight) have the Schrader valve in the gauge. Then you are compressing the air in the cylinder and the hoses (along with loses in the QD).
#27
If every cylinder is low but equal, it's likely the tester and not the engine. Engines rarely fail evenly.
Many cheap compression testers are built wrong to get good numbers. A good compression tester should have the Schrader valve in the spark plug end of the adapter hose. That way only the air in the cylinder is being compressed. Cheap ones (like from Harbor Freight) have the Schrader valve in the gauge. Then you are compressing the air in the cylinder and the hoses (along with loses in the QD).
Many cheap compression testers are built wrong to get good numbers. A good compression tester should have the Schrader valve in the spark plug end of the adapter hose. That way only the air in the cylinder is being compressed. Cheap ones (like from Harbor Freight) have the Schrader valve in the gauge. Then you are compressing the air in the cylinder and the hoses (along with loses in the QD).
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The_Pipefather
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08-06-2008 06:33 PM