Bloody 1.8 owners... :rolleyes:

Yeah, I think you're right. Lathe the thermostat groove into both sides, and keep the "aux" hole as close to horizontal as possible without moving the CLT hole so far upwards that it causes the coolant sensor's connector to interfere with the CAS in the 1.6 (intake cam) position.

NB users flip the spacer over, and use the "aux" 3/8 hole to feed the heater.

Doesn't change the design a bit.

Nice.


edit: Wait, that won't work, will it?

(need to draw this out and analyze it)

I think there may need to be something on the M12 port to bring the sensor away from the spacer just a bit, just to keep the tip of the probe from interfering with or touching the thermostat.

If the position is right, it'll clear.

+1.

Let's get this installed.

just looking at the parts diagrams for the 99 and 01. flipping wont work. Our bolt holes are not vertically aligned.

Our temp sensor comes out almost in front of the upper left bolt slot so it should probably be moved anyway for the spacer.

However, if you just rotate the thing on its center axis so that the bottom is the top, it puts the heater outlet (3/8) and temp sensor very close to where they normally are. And close means "so the wires reach" which is fine. The temp sensor would just be under the heater hose.

the question is: will the slight upward angle of the heater hose outlet be a problem for the heater hose or not?

http://y8spec.com/miata_tech/nb-reroute-spacer.gif

Ah. Ok. Nevermind my comment then. lol

Let's get this rolling! I need to put my engine back in the car!

I must have spent four hours last night messing with the design, and I never even thought of that. :rolleyes:

Have another look at the picture from RotorNut's msg #121. This is pretty typical of how things were done with the JR spacer, and the heater core feed is obviously above vertical:

http://users.telenet.be/miata/images...pacer_rear.jpg

I don't know how much offset is tolerable, but it's an interesting idea.

The alternative, of course, would just be to offer two separate pieces- one for the 1.6, and another for the 1.8. Nothing else is cross-compatible between these damn engines, why the heck should the spacer be? :D



Yup. I'm happy with the design of the spacer as I posted in message #239 (for the 1.6 cars, anyway) and I want to buy one, along with the pipe.



EDIT: I have one other idea, but I need a clear picture of the back of the head, preferably with it installed on the block with the CAS and coilpack in place. It can be a 1.6 or a 1.8.

Damn.

While you guys debate your part:

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20003.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20009.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20010.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20011.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20012.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20014.jpg

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...tall%20020.jpg

Stephanie any idea how much this is going to cost and when it'll be available?

You are correct. We ran into that Friday when checking the thermostat and sensor. We did put a spacer in there for that version. I am thinking the final version will be raised off the housing slightly.
Stephanie

Not yet. I need to get some more info from the machinst first.
Stephanie

Hopefully soon. I'm waiting on your kit to install my engine... :)
I'd wait on the intake manifold too, but that's still looking to be way too far off. VICS will have to do for now.

Brain, that looks good. Looks like the 1.6L water neck just barely fit even with cutting the top of that plug bolt off.

there's about 1/2" of clearance. If i didn't cut it, it wouldn't have fit.

I think the spacer can be made shorter also just as long as it is deep enough to keep the temp sensor off the thermostat.

Don't know if anyone else helped you out with this, but I took a couple pictures tonight while I was working on my car, hopefully this helps:

Attachment 207532
Attachment 207533

Latest version. I think this is the one that will work - if I got the orientation correct. :)
Stephanie

I think I'd want the port for "Out To Heater Core" to be closer to the sensor bung. In this orientation, the port would be pointing straight down at the transmission when mounted.

Here:

BEGi Coolant Spacer ORDER FORM

[coolant]a[/coolant]


problem solved.

Nice Brain, I was wondering what you were doing when that first code popped up. :) Although there needs to be a "nothing" option.

you get the idea. i think this way would be best for all parties.

Agreed! Something to get the ball rolling a little faster... I really need this piece. Would rather support BEGi than piece it together elsewhere.

Not a problem, we can move it closer. If this suits everyone, I will post prices.
Stephanie

Okay, so what does one need for a standard 1.6 setup? Using the factory thermoswitch, sensor for dash, heater core and an extra port for a secondary water temp gauge.
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the dash sensor shouldn't come into play. so I'd do it like this:

A: heater core outlet 3/8"
B: extra port 1/8" or whatever you need
C: thermoswitch m16x1.5
D: factory clt sensor m12


what i posted was merely a suggestion of how BEGi could handle it, because I know everyone would want something a little different, and the positions (a,b,c,d) for models years might need to be changed.

Yeah your right, It's mounted in the head. Where is the factory clt sensor?
We have thermoswitch which controls the fans and the sensor for the dash.
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in factory form, the thermoswitch is on the front water outlet. the coolant sensor is on the rear one.

i dont need the thermoswitch personally, but it perfectly fine to be installed after the thermostat, so you could splice it into the upper return hose. that way you don't have to fuck with the harness and moving the connector.

Another one!

Prices?
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+1
I'll test one out. :)

I do have someone to test it out. If all is good, the price will be $89.00 for the spacer housing and $209 for the complete racer re-route.
Stephanie

And when can we order the spacer?
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Phil, haven't you completed you reroute?

Yes, but Id like to have that spacer so I could move the t'stat into it instead of the head and be able to have a port for the heater core. Some day I'll probably want the heater back.
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Braineack how thick is the spacer you are using? The final issues I am running into are with the Kia thermostat housing and the fastener required to bolt the assembly onto the head. With the current configuration I have the bottom bolt will not fit between the head and the firewall.

Thanks

1". I had my spacer on the head, then installed the head :giggle:

you could slot the hole for the housing, much like the spacer. that way you could put the bolt on first, then slide the housing into place...

I was very temped to just pull the head and me done with all this last night, but I really do not want to do that if I ever have to replace the thermostat. I also think it will be a bigger benifit to the community if we can just get this done correctly! I geuss I have another couple of trips to BEGi is store for mme next week.

Ok the spacer is not only 1 inch thick I will hunt down some hardware today and see if I can mount it.

pics to follow if it can by installed the head wit hthe engine in the car.

Ok the 1 inch BEGi spacer is on the car! Now I am looking for help with hose routing the upper radiator hose too short to reach past the intake manifold and the clutch line is in the way for most of what I have tried. Anyone have any ideas and or part number to get me going? I will post a few pictures later today once I get back home. I really need the car back together and running today as I have a track day on next Sunday and still have to get the car through a tech inspection.

Thanks for all your help guys

Little thread resurrection.

I just did some work on my system tonight. FWIW, the Kia waterneck is a different size than the Mazda one. Will probably use a larger hose so be prepared for it to be too large for the radiator connection. I couldn't get the OEM upper radiator hose on it.

Attachment 206927

I think now I'm going to be doing what Brain did and cut the port down on the 1.6 neck and finding something to plug that hole, unless I can find some better fitting hose for the Kia piece. However, the spacer I had made locally is 1 1/8" thick instead of 1" so it's going to take a little more work. Brain, do you remember off hand what pitch the bolt was you used?

Dude just go to the auto parts store with the water neck and find something. I'm using the same neck and I have an oem sized sensor adapter at the other end of the hose and it seals with no problem.
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It's M16x1.5, it's shown in my pictures.


I agree with Phil, there are a ton of hose to choose from. Most stores let you browse the selection.

I know you have that one. And that's what I did, I went through the hoses behind the counter at Advance last night and was not able to find anything that fit well (and also gave me the right angle to get the hose around the intake manifold), everything was too small or too large or was some crazy design. Of course, they don't keep as much in stock as the other stores, but then again, this one is 5 minutes from my house rather than 35. Guess I'll try a better one today after work.

*edit* Thanks Brain. Didn't even notice that the first time I looked at the pictures. Sorry.

I just found an ideal hose to do a reroute.
I have no idea what car its for (neither did they guys in the store), but it's a Gates 3526
Just need to cut it under the throttle body and use S-shaped hose to connect further to the radiator. Pics are in a Westfield so the last bit is a bit different :D

http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star.../gates3526.jpg
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...ates3526_1.jpg
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...ates3526_3.jpg
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...ates3526_2.jpg

Oh, and this is a good way to block off the front. Cut off, thread with M14x1.5 and put an oil drain plug in there. This is a 1.6, but I think a 1.8 could be done in the same way.

http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...er_outlet3.jpg
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...er_outlet5.jpg
http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/star...es/reroute.jpg

Doesn't that put the temp sensor in a place with no water flow? At least in the stock position it has the flow from the heater loop.

The hose is cool. Moving the coolant sensor wiring to the front, not so.

Actually moving the sensor is a good idea. There's always flow towards the turbo (although the hose is still hanging loose in that picture). Try pulling one hose off while it runs and see what happens :).
Even without turbo, there'd still be enough flow through the ISC.