It is machined for t-stat. Just on the other side.

So change the second 3/8 NPT to a 1/8 NPT?
Stephanie

What if a kia neck is not used and the stock one is? It still needs an upper radiator hose connection then. We can make individual housings, but I still need to do a kit as well.
Stephanie

That piece, a flat block off plate that I could drill and thread myself for the 1.6 sensor if needed and the pipe for the cold side and it's a damn fine kit I think.

OK. Here's the dumb ass question of this thread.

Can this be done with the motor still in the car?

Yeah, it ain't easy and you will shed some blood but it can be done. Will require removal of the coil pack and probably the CAS on 1.8 cars.
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the cas no. removing the coil pack definately makes it MUCH easier to do

Coilpack is already bye bye with Sav's Cops on my car so that's good to know.

I'm not a big guy but I've got fat stubby hands and popeye forearms that don't work so well around the Miata engine bay. I'm used to bleeding. My hands looked like I'd been wrestling a bobcat after installing my HD HC bar last week. I'm not all that careful around sharp objects and edges.

Upon looking at it further, I think we are going to move the 2nd 3/8 NPT bung next to the other one. If we leave it where it is, it might interfere with a plug on the back of the engine. And the thermostat groove does need to be moved to the other side.
Stephanie

No.

Whether a person uses a stock 1.6L neck, a Kia neck, or a Protege neck, they all work pretty much the same. It covers the back of the spacer and provides a large outlet for the water going out to the radiator. Under no circumstances is it desirable for water to exit the spacer and go direct to the radiator, as that would be pre-thermostat.

Have another look at the pictures that Braineack posted in message #175. That's the stock 1.6L water neck, with the fitting where the thermoswitch would be cut down and plugged. The large outlet on the side is what will feed the radiator. The only difference between that piece and the Sephia / Protege unit is that the latter do not have the sensor fitting, thus they require less labor as you don't have to bother plugging up a hole.


Why is the M12x1.5 fitting in the form of a threaded bung which is welded on?

I think I see where Stephanie is unsure...

The spacer is used to output water to the heater core and then the front 1.6 neck is used to sent water to the rad with the T-stat between the neck and the spacer.

This is why the groove must be on the firewall side when the spacer is on the head.

That is just what the machinist put on there. It can be changed.
Stephanie

that could actually be good to leave it there depending on placement so temp sensors dont hit the t-stat in there.

Hmmm. I'm sure it probably raises the cost, but on the other hand, the stock CLT sensor, having a non-tapered thread, will probably benefit from having a flat surface to mate to. I'm sure we can trim it down as necessary to ensure that the sensor element is not shrouded.

I'm really liking this design.

IMO that is a must. The stock CLT, on the NB anyway, is a face seal like a banjo fitting, not a thread seal like a NPT.

Great thread BTW! Joe Perez for President.

I am in the middle of a spacerless reroute and would post up some picts, but am not since it is only partially relevant to this discussion; I do not want to muddy the waters. The spacerless reroute would be near impossible without the head out of the car IMO since one has to drill and tap a 3/8" NPT hole into the head at the back.

FWIW I am using the stock '99 thermostat cover on the rear (pointing straight up at 12 o-clock) and routing the radiator return under the intake manifold. The heater core feed is pre-thermostat as I think it should be. I am also sending the heater core out into the mixing manifold a-la the stock configuration.

OK guys I have the BEGi prototype spacer in my hands and I am ordering the thermostat cover from the Kia dealer Monday should have it Tuesday.

I also was able to get hte part numbers for the Kia Thermostat housing cover
Part #
0K24715172A
My dealer wants $18.19 for it plus $2 to over night it

The Mazda part is
B6BF15172 and they are much more proud of that parts and priced it at 33.73

That's why i had suggested the bung in the first place.


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20001.JPG


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20002.JPG


http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20003.JPG

non-Tommy/Finishline Rosenthal Nissan Mazda has it for 18 something. plus they are kinda cool and send their driver to my work heh

Rosenthal Nissan-Mazda Parts and Accessories

ok I'm done. Looks like the OEM upper hose will work perfectly from the outlet to the 16" hardline, so I should just need to only have to source some odd S-bend.

that 3/8-18 NPT was a bitch to tap:

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20004.JPG

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...acer%20005.JPG

Did you use cutting fluid? Taping stuff is easy if you cut square and use cutting fluid and proper technique. :)

I used a 9/16 (0.5625") dill bit, not a 37/64 (0.578").

I think the main issue was it was still cutting new threads as it started tapering out the cut ones. No biggie, it's done and ready to rock & roll.

ZOMG it's done!

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...lete%20002.JPG

http://boostedmiata.com/projects/rer...lete%20003.JPG

use studs cuts to the perfect length or you'll have to pull the head to change the thermostat.

I don't see why. Once the bolts are clear of the thread, the whole assembly can be lifted out. No need to back the bolts all the way out of the water neck while leaving everything else in place.

Yeah, looking at it, if the thermostat needs to be removed, I'm going to have to pull the hoses off and pull the entire assembly off. It's not going to be incredibly easy, but not a huge undertaking either.

If I slotted the hole on the thermostat housing, it looks like I could pull the bolt completely and pull it out of the way, then if i loosen the second lower one that would allow me to pull the assembly off the bolt, change the thermostat and but it back without completely needing to remove it.

Looking at it more, i think I can use the stock upper to make the 90* bend off the outlet.

I might be able to use the same to route the hardline back to the radiator inlet, much like this:

http://users.telenet.be/miata/images...engine_bay.JPG


If not I've found a few bends that look like they'll work:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...70641_main.jpg http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...70704_main.jpg http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...71203_main.jpghttp://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...70988_main.jpg
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...71586_main.jpg http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...71627_main.jpghttp://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...71490_main.jpg

Stock Upper:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...70806_main.jpg

Where did you find those catalog shots? I've googled a couple of the numbers and found them from various vendors, but none show them in such a nice, graphical form.

mydickisbent.com

No you wont. I had to pull mine off a couple times after I got it all back together. Its a tight fit but you can get it all out.
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All you need is a simple s shaped hose.
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Looks like I have an excuse for removing my EGR now and will get to do that tomorrow night. BEGi is working on piping and hoses this week I should have them and a fished version by Friday.

advanceautoparts.com, their new site is much better, if you don't put in a car you can search everything.


and why i was looking for s-shaped hoses :P ill need to worry about the charchol canister.

What's that?
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= "Server Not Found" error. I tried the major domain name registrars (Network Solutions, GoDaddy, etc) and couldn't find an entry for "mydickisbent" under any of the major extensions.


Wow- what an excellent resource! Be nice if you could search by diameter, but still, that's the best hose catalog I think I've seen on-line yet.

cause it's in the way, and im not going to remove it.

that's a 1.6...mine was ultra-tight.
http://i40.tinypic.com/mb5mrr.jpg

Isn't it better that way? :giggle:
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My Protege water neck arrived yesterday. Just need the spacer and pipe now.

Same boat, except I got a 1.6L neck. Thinking about snagging a Kia piece anyway, just to delete the bung.
I wonder if BEGi would consider welding a 5/16" inlet on the underside of the return pipe so I can run the throttle body line into it.

Ok guys I will be picking up my Kia water neck today and then I remove my EGR and do a test fit of the BEGi spacer tonight. I will post again aftr I am done tonight. Is there anything special anyone wants to to look for during the test fit tonight?

I am doing all of this with the engine in the car so there may be blood involved.

Mine is going to look a lot like that one. My coldside IC pipe is over the top of the radiator so I do not need to worry as much about clearing it.

First I want everyone to know how impressed I am with Mazda's ability to put sharp edges on everything you touch while installing this spacer. After 7 years of turning a wrench for a living and over 25 of turning for my own projects I can say that not even an air cooled VW has more sharp edges to rub up against. I also want to know is anyone can do this job with the valve cover and coil packs still installed on the engine.

The EGR on the 1.8 will no be compatible with the spacer if you have to run your EGR you need a different solution. The temp sensor bug that BEGi put on the prototype needs to be shaved down to the body of the spacer and to be a flat surface for the temp sensor.

The locations for the sensor, heater port and extra temp sensor all seem to be good as long as the extra sensor is added at the time of install or while the engine is out of the car.

To make the install as easy as possible with the engine in the car I hate to say it but hustler is half right a stud for the lower mounting point would make the install much easier as you would have a point to rest the spacer as you line up the bolt 2 studs and you would not be able to swap this part on and off the head while it is in the car.

I will try to get to BEGi on Thursday or Friday at the latest to get a production version of the part and the rest of the kit.

Photos to follow once the production version of the kit is installed.

The bottom fastener need to be a 85mm bolt or a 95 mm long stud

Here is the next version. The surface for the coolant temp sensor has been machined flat. What do ya'll think?
Stephanie

So we have two 3/8 NPT ports and the port for the stock coolant sensor. Can one more be added for those who want to run a 1/8 NPT sending unit for their aftermarket gauges?

I'm liking that concept a lot. My only concern is that with the stock CLT sensor being of a non-tapered thread and shoulder-sealing design, the thread break at the outer edge might prevent it from sealing properly. After the pilot hole is drilled, but before the tapping operation is done (so it's easier to remain concentric) why not run a 90° tapered countersink a mm or so into the hole? That way, after the threading tap is run, there will still be a clean, smooth surface for the shoulder of the sensor to seal against?

They make reducers to put a 1/8" NPT sensor into a 3/8" NPT hole. Essentially, a 3/8" NPT plug with a 1/8" NPT hole in it.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg

Examples:
XRP 991203 (Bushing, Reducer 3/8 Male to 1/8 Female NPT - Aluminum) - LPI Racing
3/8"P TO 1/8"P only $3.26 - NPT Reducer Bushings
661570 - Russell AN & NPT Adapter Fittings

Alternately, a 1/8" NPT hole would be very easy for the end user to drill and tap. You could put it wherever you wanted it.

We could put it on the opposite side. Or, like Joe suggested, run a reducer fitting. :)
Stephanie

Let me ask Corky and I will let you know.
Stephanie

Something like this works great for deburring and countersinking a part in a mill repeatably and accurately in about 1 second. Just setup your stops on the head and plunge to debure and countersink simultaneously. Great tool to use anytime you're making circles.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies


BTW-how do yall go about making these? Are yall turning out the part in a lathe with a cutter and boring bar, cutting the relieve for the thermostat in a lathe, then face it off, then cut it off? I guess then it goes in a mill to get the two slots cut in it's side. I'm not sure how yall are cutting those slots on the side. Are you plunging a 2 flute right into the parts, then out? It would be faster/cheaper/easier to just clamp the part in the vise and mill a flat on either side for the bolt to go through. It wouldn't be round, but that wouldn't matter either. What about the holes for the sensors, are these being done by hand or in a mill? Would be easy enough to drill the holes for the sensors in the mill after cutting the reliefs for the bolts.

ooh you mean make it D shaped and put all the bungs on the flat? less setups = less $

I'm such a trend-setter. lol

Moss had you beat man, they've been making this part since 2000 or earlier. Just saying the trend was set long ago. Lay off the test gel.

:rofl: We both probably had our spacers longer than hustler...just never installed.

Hell I learned about the reroute concept back in '05 when I turboed my car. I'm sure the idea for our motor is almost 20 years old.

I got an old Mazda Miata performance book here dated of 99 showing a B6 install in a midget and on the picture you can clearly see there was a reroute done. I'll scan it one day.

Do you want friend status rejected on facebook? Look motherfucker, I've been rubbing that test-gel on my balls for a long fucking time ok, lets not bring that into this shit. Seriously, I'm impotent.

I did it first, back when I was with KISS. If you're nice I'll send you a KISS coffin...so I can bury your ass in it for talking shit!

PM me nudes of your mother and I'll feel better about our recent altercation.

Basically, you are saying put a chamfer on the outside?
Stephanie

Now I'm doubting my recollection of what the sealing surface of the CLT sensor looks like. I think I may have been misleading you here.

Does anybody have one lying around that they can take a picture of? I'm thinking that I might be off-base here. Is there a radiused transition between the threaded shaft and the flat face?

EDIT: Nevermind. I finally found a picture of one and have confirmed that I am, in fact, a retard.

The part looks great. How much, and when can I get one?

Looks like the moving of all the ports to the same side of the spacer makes the spacer unusable. The temp sensor now interferes with the bell housing. Did I miss where the reason was given for the move?

Huh. I was so fixated on the shape of the CLT sensor hole that I failed to notice the location of the holes. Eraser-X is right.

Let's step back here for a second. I've done a quick and dirty sketch which I think describes everything we were speaking about earlier. It's not perfectly to scale (I'm working on my laptop in a hotel room, so I don't have parts on-hand to measure) but it's pretty close and I believe it conveys the basic design that we'd all agreed upon. A picture is worth a thousand words, right?


Here's the spacer viewed from behind the engine, looking forward from the driver's side:

http://img15.picoodle.com/img/img15/...tm_e9deaeb.png



And again, from behind the engine, from the passenger's side:

http://img02.picoodle.com/img/img02/...tm_e7516b3.png


So, on the driver's side, we have one 3/8" NPT hole, mounted at horizontal, into which a hose-barb fitting will be inserted to attach the heater core supply hose.

On the passenger's side, we have the M12 hole (with flat surround) for the stock coolant sensor positioned above horizontal, to put the CLT sensor in roughly the stock location. We then have another 3/8" NPT hole, below horizontal, to accommodate whatever accessory somebody wants to install, such as an aftermarket CLT sensor.

I believe there's enough space left over that if someone wants to drill an additional hole (for a 1/8" NPT, or a 1.6 fanswitch, or 1/8" BSP, or whetever) that they can do so.


Thoughts?

only that the 2001 coolant sensor is on the upper left (drivers side), but that could be made an easy swap by putting the thermostat groove in both sides and running the spacer flipped around so that your pictures are from the front of the car.