My Reroute drawing
#1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Va Beach
Posts: 7,329
Total Cats: 12
My Reroute drawing
Please critique. I have most of this done already with the exception of having the heater core plumbed.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
Last edited by levnubhin; 10-07-2009 at 03:02 PM.
#3
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Va Beach
Posts: 7,329
Total Cats: 12
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#5
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Va Beach
Posts: 7,329
Total Cats: 12
It appears his turbo pulls coolant from the block in that port that's on the side, and then returns it to the mixing manifold/inlet of the water pump.
Overall reroute looks ok to me. I'm assuming you pull hot water to feed the heater before the thermostat, and return after the thermostat.
Overall reroute looks ok to me. I'm assuming you pull hot water to feed the heater before the thermostat, and return after the thermostat.
Correct on both.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
#6
Turbo is getting fresh water from the block and the feeding into the mixing manifold the way most do it. It would be nice to send it to the rad though. Im just not sure it would get enough flow like that though. As is the water pump pulls water thru the turbo, dosen't it?
#8
This is a dumb question, pardon me, but why not just come out of the head, into the heater core, and out of the heater core right into the radiator instead of that loop around the T-stat?
I understand you get a little bit of water circulation through the heater core before the T-stat opens in Levnubhins configuration but that can also be achieved with some drilled holes in the t-stat.
I understand you get a little bit of water circulation through the heater core before the T-stat opens in Levnubhins configuration but that can also be achieved with some drilled holes in the t-stat.
Last edited by cjernigan; 02-20-2009 at 11:43 AM.
#9
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,103
Instead of dumping the heater core into the return line post-thermostat, which effectively defeats the purpose of HAVING a thermostat, I would dump it back into the mixing manifold like the factory does it. The car will warm up faster and the heater will work more quickly. Other than that, looks perfect.
#12
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Incline Village, NV
Posts: 2,034
Total Cats: 5
Instead of dumping the heater core into the return line post-thermostat, which effectively defeats the purpose of HAVING a thermostat, I would dump it back into the mixing manifold like the factory does it. The car will warm up faster and the heater will work more quickly. Other than that, looks perfect.
#15
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Va Beach
Posts: 7,329
Total Cats: 12
#16
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,103
Then plumbing the heater back to the mixing manifold will be just like the stock configuration, which means you get the heater after about 90 seconds of driving.
Nick, if your heater feed is pre-thermostat, and the return is into the mixing manifold, and it doesn't work, you might have a thermostat that's stuck wide open.
Nick, if your heater feed is pre-thermostat, and the return is into the mixing manifold, and it doesn't work, you might have a thermostat that's stuck wide open.
#17
I just switched the heater block to the front of the engine and put the thermostat/radiator at the rear. Your design guarantees slightly better flow for the thermostat, but I can't really see a gigantic difference in terms of performance, especially for racing.
FYI, my thermostat has no problems with failing to open (it's not on a stalk after all) and the heater core warms up normally even in subzero temps. There's also a coolant line that feeds the intake manifold from a boss that is right next to the rear thermostat housing, so you get a little flow. It's apparently enough.
FYI, my thermostat has no problems with failing to open (it's not on a stalk after all) and the heater core warms up normally even in subzero temps. There's also a coolant line that feeds the intake manifold from a boss that is right next to the rear thermostat housing, so you get a little flow. It's apparently enough.
#18
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Incline Village, NV
Posts: 2,034
Total Cats: 5
Is there any downsides to doing such thing?
#19
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,340
Total Cats: 6,793
I see where you're going with that, taking advantage of the pressure differential across the thermostat to enforce flow through the heater core at all times. As drawn however, this system has the same fundamental flaw as the "cheap" Bell reroute, wherein coolant exiting the heater core goes into the upper radiator hose. Warmup will take forever, the engine will run too cold, rivers of blood, locusts, etc.
Apart from that, looks good.