Just in case anyone was wondering...

I spent part of my day tracking down service and replacement parts for the used M-Tuned Coolant Reroute I recently picked up. I figured maybe I could save some people some time and dump it in a thread. Maybe the images will work this time Mods feel free to move this if its in the wrong section.

Hose:


1.25" ID


1.5" OD


Definately made by Vibrant.


And you will need about 3' to get the job done

5' section will run you $31 here: Vibrant Performance Reinforced Silicone Heater Hoses 20485


Both the rear housing and the thermostat housing are 1.25" OD so this would be the correct hose.

Hose Support Coil

In my used kit, the coil spring that keeps the hose from collapsing in the 90° bend section around the intake manifold is VERY rusty, probably because its made out of mild steel and OP most likely ran Water Wetter and straight water for track days. I really don't want to invite this stuff into my coolant system so I want to replace the coil with something a bit more corrosion resistant.

The people at Earl's make a stainless steel coil for Earl's -20AN Pro-Lite 350 hose. -20 comes out to be about 1.125" but I believe that's close enough for our purposes. Stainless should be just fine in this application.


A 4' section will run you $10 here: Earl's Performance Hose Inner Support Springs 773420ERL



Thermostat, Gasket & Housing:

For a super hassle free option, you can buy the entire Thermostat/Gasket & Housing from 949Racing in one shot and save yourself some time running around trying to find everything:


Inline Thermostat Housing

If you just need parts...

As you can see in the 4th and 5th images above, the PO confirmed he used Black RTV in the threads of the housing to keep it from leaking. I don't expect to ever be able to get that apart to replace the thermostat, so I've been on a mission to replace it. The housing is of course 1.25" OD on both the inlet and the outlet. It matches up almost perfectly with this guy:


$60 sans thermostat: Meziere Inline Thermostat Assemblies WN0071

It's slightly different visually, but even the pics on the Summit and Meziere product page for the WN0071 don't match perfectly so I'm guessing that's production/revision variance. I don't really think it matters. It's the correct size and it holds a thermostat.

RavynX so kindly documented in this thread the CORRECT rubber gasket seal thing is Stant 25270 and the 180° thermostat is Stant 13958.


It's a pretty basic looking thermostat. You can buy these all day long for $5.
180°: Stant 13958

Mine appears to have a 195° Stant 13959 siliconed in place and does not have any sort of bypass hole. It does have the little brass air bleed jiggler as seen in the above image. This makes me slightly nervous as there is 6" of hose between the back of the head and the thermal pill/spring assembly in the thermostat itself. I may see if I can get in there with my dremel or a pair of needle nose and remove the brass jiggler so that its hole can be used as a bypass. It's probably around 1/8" diameter.

Rear Water Outlet

This is of course Miata specific.



Go buy it from 949Racing for $169: Miata Coolant Reroute adapter.

Note: The "auxiliary" port for an aftermarket temp gauge on the rear water outlet is supposed to be 1/8" NPT. I found that mine was radically undersized to the point where I could only get 2.5 turns to engage before I had to switch to a tool. And yes, I tried 4 different 1/8" NPT threaded items before assaulting it with a tap. I can now get all but the last 2 full threads to fully engage on my VEI temp sender.

Rear Outlet Gasket:

For the rear housing, you can of course go buy the gasket directly from Mazda. Its PN: B621-15-173


It's $3.62 from Arlington: GASKET,THERMOSTAT (B621-15-173) - $3.62 - B62115173

I'm sure you could also take a trip down to the local FLAPS and get a FelPro or other gasket and do just fine. RTV or shellac is of course up to you.

Clamps:

If you want to be a cave man about it, feel free to use any OTS worm clamp to make your life miserable. Those of us with more enlightened tastes prefer T-Bolt Clamps. The Vibrant 2787 is all stainless steel and has a 1.250" to 1.600" clamping range, so it should be perfect in this application.


These will run you about $13 each: Vibrant Performance T-Bolt Hose Clamps 2787


I think that about covers it, other than the front thermostat block off plate, mounting bolts and plugs. Those are pretty common items so I'm not going to bother hunting down part numbers and whatnot. Let me know if I missed anything or if anything is inaccurate.

And yes, I am aware that you can go buy the GM hose for $10 and save some cash. If you stumbled your way into this post because you were searching for reroute stuff, chances are you have already come to that conclusion, having already read all the reroute threads

 

Great info. For clamps, I went with Jegs units at $6: JEGS Performance Products 82003 JEGS T-Bolt Hose Clamps - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

 

Nice thanks.

Mods, can this be a sticky?

 

Excellent info. Props to you, Sir.

 

Thanks guys

I've been focusing on maintenance and trying to get things squared away on my car before the arrival of my MS3-E and eventual glorious turbo powered future, and I keep finding a lot of this info either scattered in unrelated threads or straight up non existent. I know its a little spoon-feedy but if it helps or saves someone some time, I don't see how it can be a bad thing.

 

Augh, reading fail. Please ignore.

--Ian

 

I bought the Stant 25270 seal and 13958 180° thermostat. They are significantly smaller diameter than those that were included in my M-tuned reroute. Definitely the wrong size for my external housing. My reroute kit is from a few years ago, I wonder if the internal diameter changed?

Another thing to watch out for is how far the rear coolant reroute adapter housing lip overhangs below the bottom part of the head. It overlaps so much on mine that it interferes with the bell housing of the tranny. We'll be chopping a little bit off at the bottom to ensure no interference. This is with a VVT head on a MSM block, the head had very little taken off versus stock when decked.

 

Awesome! Good to know there is some parts variance

The Meziere site actually says something like ‘any regular small block Chevy thermostat" with regards to fitment so not sure what to say on that one.

If anyone has anything else benificial to add, feel free to post up. More useful dataz are useful.

 

Good info, I really have to change my BEGI racer reroute as it's not cutting it...

 

Out of curiosity, how/why is the BEGI it not cutting it anymore?

 

Damn lost my paragraph... will resume :

No more turbo, seems like BEgi was a compromise to better suit their turbo application. It takes forever to get to temp wich can be a problem, while waiting for too long it tends to get hot easily (think grid placement 10 min +) and afterward heat soak and ****...It still goes Hot to Hot and from my different reading doesn't really help to cool down cyl 4 area. Still use front thermostat instead of caping it. A big compromise versus M-Tuned (discussion here about reroute https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...p-times-75088/)

 

And with a new rebuilt engine, I'll take more insurance then before to avoid the big coin again too soon.

 

Ahh, got it. Thanks for the link.

I'll probably be installing this over the weekend so we'll see how that goes. I need to see if I can find some Adel clamps and a "magic funnel" locally.

 

Thermostat Housing came in today from Summit:







I also sent an email to the folks at Meziere about the gasket as I thought I had lost it:

They were even nice enough to send me pics



Turns out it fell out when I first opened the housing, but at least they were nice enough to send me the PNs and offered to send me a gasket for free. Some in one of the other threads recommended some sort of silicone based lubricant to keep the rubber seal from tearing and I completely understand why now that I have it in my hands. I could easily see the sheer/compression/torque force of tightening the housing tearing the hell out of the rubber gasket.

I also decided to go from australopithecus robustus to homo erectus and get some really good worm drive type hose clamps as $55 worth of T Bolt clamps seemed really excessive:


COMP Cams Gator Brand Clamps G31225

Clamping range is 1.000" to 1.625" so they should be fine on the 1.5" OD hose.

I don't mean to get all squirmy over hose clamps, but these things are seriously beefy and high quality. I'm going to go measure the OD on the rest of my coolant hoses and buy new clamps.

 

Pro tip: remove the threaded heater core nipple from the M-tooned rear water outlet & weld it onto the 'upstream' side of your shiny new remote t-stat housing.

 

Upstream? Like, on the radiator side of the thermostat? O.o

I mean, I could see maybe putting it on the engine side of the thermostat to make sure it gets some coolant flow, but wouldn't an 1/8" hole in the thermostat accomplish the same thing with less cutting and welding?

I don't doubt you Mr. K, if there is a better way to do things I'm all ears.

 

Engine side of tstat = upstream side

The hole in the tstat thing is kludgy, that's all.

 

Ahh, I gotcha! That makes perfect sense, gives the thermostat direct access to hot coolant to avoid temp spikes.

Unfortunately, with my limited tools and resources at the moment, kludge will have to work for now. I have that second thermostat housing that is RTV'd shut so it might be fun to try it with that at a later date. I have a friend with a TIG who is usually down for this kind of stuff, I'll post up when I get around to playing with it. Thanks for the suggestion

 

Just ran across this thread and looked at the pics of your Meziere housing... then went and looked at my M-Tuned housing. Identical to the 949 shot and yours. Guess we know where they source those from now.

 

On the subject of hose sizes, can someone confirm the ID of the heater hose out from the back of the block? Search wasn't all that helpful; there seems to be a bit of confusion around.

Also, I'm thinking about reusing the 1.6L front water neck at the back with a banjo fitting in the fan sensor hole for the heater. Is there any reason this wouldn't work?