Low HP clutch selection
#1
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It's time for a clutch.
I'm running a 1.6 NA with light mods (MS3, cat-back); it's mostly a track car.
I have a 1.6 flywheel, a 94 flywheel and an 02 flywheel to choose from. I'm considering the upgrade to the 1.8L size for the new clutch, but I'm concerned of the additional weight. I could mill some weight off of either flywheel-- a budget lightened flywheel may also be in the plan.
I'm torn between a stock disc/ pp with the lightened flywheel or a stock flywheel with an ACT pp/ puck disc. I'd like to keep the deal below the $400 mark.
The benefit of the puck disc is better clamping when shifting at high RPM correct? I ran a stock disc/pp last season and only noticed a slip at the last meet - I figured it was due to the rear main seal leak that showed up recently. So maybe the lighter assembly is better for me?
I figured a spec miata setup would be sufficient for me, but MazdaMotorsport's website shows a dozen different kits.
TL/DR: Clutch suggestions for 1.6L non-turbo track car, please.
I'm running a 1.6 NA with light mods (MS3, cat-back); it's mostly a track car.
I have a 1.6 flywheel, a 94 flywheel and an 02 flywheel to choose from. I'm considering the upgrade to the 1.8L size for the new clutch, but I'm concerned of the additional weight. I could mill some weight off of either flywheel-- a budget lightened flywheel may also be in the plan.
I'm torn between a stock disc/ pp with the lightened flywheel or a stock flywheel with an ACT pp/ puck disc. I'd like to keep the deal below the $400 mark.
The benefit of the puck disc is better clamping when shifting at high RPM correct? I ran a stock disc/pp last season and only noticed a slip at the last meet - I figured it was due to the rear main seal leak that showed up recently. So maybe the lighter assembly is better for me?
I figured a spec miata setup would be sufficient for me, but MazdaMotorsport's website shows a dozen different kits.
TL/DR: Clutch suggestions for 1.6L non-turbo track car, please.
#7
Cpt. Slow
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Hmm, seems like a lot of bad advice in this thread if you ask me.
Yes, the FM level 1 clutch is awesome. They spend a lot of R&D time to get the perfect feel, fitment, price, and grip levels.
That being said, it holds 318 ft/lbs. That's about 3x how much you'll ever make N/A.
I'd suggest lightening the 1.6 flywheel, getting it surfaced, using a new clutch, and OEM throwout and pilot bearing.
For the clutch, I'd suggest a OEM clutch if it's daily driven, or go for a sprung 6-puck if it's really just a track car. That's what I run, it's holding a little under 200 ft/lbs, and it shifts very crisply.
There are plenty of 1.6 options, and a lightened 1.6 flywheel is the lightest out of the options you listed.
However, if you choose to upgrade to a "real" lightened flywheel (aka, not iron), I would then suggest getting a 1.8 unit, as there are even more options at that point. Sounds like you don't want or need to spend that kinda cash.
Yes, the FM level 1 clutch is awesome. They spend a lot of R&D time to get the perfect feel, fitment, price, and grip levels.
That being said, it holds 318 ft/lbs. That's about 3x how much you'll ever make N/A.
I'd suggest lightening the 1.6 flywheel, getting it surfaced, using a new clutch, and OEM throwout and pilot bearing.
For the clutch, I'd suggest a OEM clutch if it's daily driven, or go for a sprung 6-puck if it's really just a track car. That's what I run, it's holding a little under 200 ft/lbs, and it shifts very crisply.
There are plenty of 1.6 options, and a lightened 1.6 flywheel is the lightest out of the options you listed.
However, if you choose to upgrade to a "real" lightened flywheel (aka, not iron), I would then suggest getting a 1.8 unit, as there are even more options at that point. Sounds like you don't want or need to spend that kinda cash.
#8
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I had a SPEC stage 2 pucked clutch. It was horrible, and as soon as i threw boost at it, it was slipping all over the place.
Changed out for the FM level 1 and have had no regrets. Drives smooth as butter when i'm just cruising around. And i made at least 7 passes in a row down a drag strip and didn't see a single issue from it. Flat foot shifting and 3k launches as well. Does great cold also. I have had absolutely zero issues with any type of chatter whatsoever. Highly recommend.
Changed out for the FM level 1 and have had no regrets. Drives smooth as butter when i'm just cruising around. And i made at least 7 passes in a row down a drag strip and didn't see a single issue from it. Flat foot shifting and 3k launches as well. Does great cold also. I have had absolutely zero issues with any type of chatter whatsoever. Highly recommend.
#9
Former Vendor
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Except for the regret of having a heavy clutch and flywheel rated for far, far, far more torque than he will ever make. ![FAEL](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/sawzall.gif)
OP, use the 1.6 flywheel and do an ACT HD. Street disc makes it basically stock-replacement but is heavier, 4-puck is lighter but not as pleasant on the street. If you have some extra bucks, pick up a 1.6 liter Fidanza flywheel to match. No reason at all to upgrade to the 1.8 parts.
![FAEL](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/sawzall.gif)
OP, use the 1.6 flywheel and do an ACT HD. Street disc makes it basically stock-replacement but is heavier, 4-puck is lighter but not as pleasant on the street. If you have some extra bucks, pick up a 1.6 liter Fidanza flywheel to match. No reason at all to upgrade to the 1.8 parts.
#10
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I had a spec stage 2 on about 160tq and it was terrible. It lasted like 100 miles. I put an exedy stage 2 on and the drivability was fantastic. I swapped to 1.8 but it took 30k of constant abuse and was still looking good when I swapped. If you chose to turbo it's supposed to be good for 200ish tq. I'd buy again. Nothing but good stuff to say about it. I was really hard on it.
#13
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Thanks for all the suggestions.
I'm taking a look at the Fidanza (alum) flywheels and they're about 8lbs - but also about $350 - not in the budget for this particular motor.
Any downside to running an off-brand chro-mo flywheel? They look to be lighter (9.5#) than I could machine the stock flywheel to... at about $200.
I'm taking a look at the Fidanza (alum) flywheels and they're about 8lbs - but also about $350 - not in the budget for this particular motor.
Any downside to running an off-brand chro-mo flywheel? They look to be lighter (9.5#) than I could machine the stock flywheel to... at about $200.
#16
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I "downgraded" my stock 1.8 clutch/fw to a stock 1.6 clutch/fw on my street car. The 1.6 setup is a bit lighter but mostly the weight is closer to the center so there's less angular momentum. Holds the power from a n/a 1.8 just fine. Go with a 1.6 ACT and you will be happy. That's what I have on my SM and it's just great once you get used to it.
#17
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I ran a 1.6 fly behind my 1.8 for a long time, then "upgraded" to a Fuji fly and spec organic.
That crappy Spec clutch Lasted less than a year.
I went back to the OEM value clutch and its been holding great for 2 years +.
I have dozens of OEM value clutches out there and no complaints. (non-boosted)
Infact had breakfast with a customer this morn, that I installed his back in '07 in his AutoX/track car.
Flogged most weekends for atleast 5 seasons.
I just sent 10 heavyass 1.8 flywheels to the scrapper.
That crappy Spec clutch Lasted less than a year.
I went back to the OEM value clutch and its been holding great for 2 years +.
I have dozens of OEM value clutches out there and no complaints. (non-boosted)
Infact had breakfast with a customer this morn, that I installed his back in '07 in his AutoX/track car.
Flogged most weekends for atleast 5 seasons.
I just sent 10 heavyass 1.8 flywheels to the scrapper.
#18
Cpt. Slow
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Hope you got good money out of them.
I wouldn't be surprised if they sold well here for all the 1.6 guys upgrading their clutch. I'd be confident I'd sell one here for $50. Although maybe you got $250 from the scrapper, I dunno. Cause shipping would eat half that cost.
I wouldn't be surprised if they sold well here for all the 1.6 guys upgrading their clutch. I'd be confident I'd sell one here for $50. Although maybe you got $250 from the scrapper, I dunno. Cause shipping would eat half that cost.