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Originally Posted by AndyHollis
(Post 1197112)
Ummm...you guys do know that there has been a factory turbo K-series for a long time now.. 07-12 RDX has the K23A1 rated at 240/260.
Has anyone considering trying to run that exhaust manifold and turbo with a custom DP on a k-swaped miata? It looks like intercooler routing for a front mount IC would be a pain. Insight to the k23a1 engine - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421423902 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421423879 |
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touche sir... Damn that's cheap.
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Originally Posted by cyotani
(Post 1197119)
Sorry, I'm a K-series Noob. Brand new info to me.
Has anyone considering trying to run that exhaust manifold and turbo with a custom DP on a k-swaped miata? It looks like intercooler routing for a front mount IC would be a pain. Insight to the k23a1 engine - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421423902 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421423879 |
Is that manifold aluminum? Wat?
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Originally Posted by K Miata
(Post 1197142)
We may or may not have a k23a1 on an engine stand right now. It could be made to work, but will need some other custom parts since it is very different than all other K series engines. Jury is still out if it will be a cost effective option.
That may only be if you're keeping the stock intercooler, but anyway, it's much more cost effective and easy to just turbo a K20/K24. And yes, the RDX has an aluminum turbo manifold with integrated water ports to keep the manifold "cool". K23 looks interesting on paper but in the real world I don't think they make a lot of sense. |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1197442)
And yes, the RDX has an aluminum turbo manifold with integrated water ports to keep the manifold "cool".
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Originally Posted by Ryan_G
(Post 1197450)
This is a very interesting feature. I am no Honda OEM engineer but why would you want to cool an exhaust manifold. Doesn't this just reduce the efficiency of the exhaust gasses by dissipating additional heat? I could see it maybe as a reliability feature I guess but other than that I am left wanting. Does anyone know the reason this is done?
The water cooling is necessary to keep the aluminum at a temperature that won't negatively effect the material properties...like staying solid... Most aluminum casting alloys have a melting point around 1100F. Compare that to common EGTs seen in a turbo manifold and I think you'll see why they needed water cooling in the exhaust manifold. I'm not sure what alloy they used for the RDX exhaust manifold but I'd be willing to bet it was one with a higher melting temperature than normal casting alloys. |
I think the question is really why bother using aluminum? What's the point? Lowering underhood temps and weight?
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I would think primarily weight.
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As further evidence of how light the Honda motor is, here's the final product. This is now a manual steering car with no a/c. The nose is so high that max camber is still slightly positive (.5 degree). Can't wait to get some suspension on this thing...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421538571 Yeah, three Mazdas... http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdvgskidl.jpg |
Very nice, good work.
how does she drive? |
that header looks beast. nice work!
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Any plan for a heat shield between the header and that washer bottle? Or a relocation of the washer bottle?
Got my subframe/mounts this week and I picked up the rest of my parts (minus flywheel) from David today. I need to do some engine bay cleanup still but things are moving. |
Originally Posted by njn63
(Post 1197601)
Any plan for a heat shield between the header and that washer bottle? Or a relocation of the washer bottle?
. I'm more worried about underhood heat issues overall with that header...
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1197588)
how does she drive?
The stock suspension is comical, though...especially with no front camber. |
-anybody have exact weight savings vs stock engine?
-for the non-DIY types like me, what would this setup cost turnkey at 200whp (assuming that's stock output) and 250 ish whp ? assuming I drop off the keys to a stock NA, for example. |
Originally Posted by endura
(Post 1197773)
-anybody have exact weight savings vs stock engine?
-for the non-DIY types like me, what would this setup cost turnkey at 200whp (assuming that's stock output) and 250 ish whp ? assuming I drop off the keys to a stock NA, for example. |
Originally Posted by endura
(Post 1197773)
-anybody have exact weight savings vs stock engine?
-for the non-DIY types like me, what would this setup cost turnkey at 200whp (assuming that's stock output) and 250 ish whp ? assuming I drop off the keys to a stock NA, for example. Andy, what were your before/after numbers? |
So is the elevated front end merely a factor of no PS or A/C?
Doesn't seem like that would be enough. |
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