Internals
#2
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there is no such thing as bad rods, all the brand name ones are good, and most are priced about the same.
I am personally running ebay no name china rods, holding fine for 2+ years and 300hp
I am personally running ebay no name china rods, holding fine for 2+ years and 300hp
#3
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Sorry but the best answer is 6 months of looking through posts on this site and serious use of the search button.
We can be harsh to newcomers that want to be spoon fed.
The easy button is a system by MK turbo (the whole 4k+ one), a better cooling system, a better clutch, a good tune (or learn how yourself).
Maybe $5000-5500 all in.
Make a 200-225 hp car and enjoy it before you go down the rabbit hole of building a motor.
If your car is a decent running car now the above can be completed by an DIYer in maybe 2 weeks.
No engine work at all...
Until you drive a 225hp Miata for a month don't knock the low HP rating. It's a blast. Still forgiving but damn fun.
A 300 hp miata is a handful that beginners should not be allowed to drive unsupervised. More mods needed, more money to build.
A 400 hp miata is just flat dangerous, hard to control, daunting to drive, never out in the rain, a play toy only...
We can be harsh to newcomers that want to be spoon fed.
The easy button is a system by MK turbo (the whole 4k+ one), a better cooling system, a better clutch, a good tune (or learn how yourself).
Maybe $5000-5500 all in.
Make a 200-225 hp car and enjoy it before you go down the rabbit hole of building a motor.
If your car is a decent running car now the above can be completed by an DIYer in maybe 2 weeks.
No engine work at all...
Until you drive a 225hp Miata for a month don't knock the low HP rating. It's a blast. Still forgiving but damn fun.
A 300 hp miata is a handful that beginners should not be allowed to drive unsupervised. More mods needed, more money to build.
A 400 hp miata is just flat dangerous, hard to control, daunting to drive, never out in the rain, a play toy only...
#4
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^^ pretty spot on
but if you just want an easy answer: go manley or maxpeeding
I went manley and can tell you that the rabbit hole of building a respectable BP is no joke, it is costly with arguably weak returns. I can't really assess your mechanical ability, but if you are asking the question 'which rods', I am going to have you find a good engine builder and take their advice.
The best advice is to do some research on a turbo kit on a stock engine and learn about the platform and tuning before diving into internals.
FYI - a reasonable turbo kit is around 3500-5000 USD for just the kit, youll need other little things to support 200-250whp
For a respectable engine build, easily add another 5k -- for reference, I am easily in for 4k in the engine alone when factoring in machine work. Then you have to think about damper + oil pump (600-800), injectors (400), ECU (600-1000) etc etc...
It is one of those all or nothing things, 200whp is easily doable (and has been done tons of times reliably for relatively little money) and a LOT of fun in these cars, my old setup put down 202/200 at the wheels and was a great amount of power for the chassis for about 4 years. I went down the rabbit hole because my oil pan was leaking and I had to tear the motor down that far anyways, and even having played with at least 5 different miatas over the past 8 years, I still underestimated the cost for 350+whp
Good luck, do your research -- the answers are out there (here on this forum even)
but if you just want an easy answer: go manley or maxpeeding
I went manley and can tell you that the rabbit hole of building a respectable BP is no joke, it is costly with arguably weak returns. I can't really assess your mechanical ability, but if you are asking the question 'which rods', I am going to have you find a good engine builder and take their advice.
The best advice is to do some research on a turbo kit on a stock engine and learn about the platform and tuning before diving into internals.
FYI - a reasonable turbo kit is around 3500-5000 USD for just the kit, youll need other little things to support 200-250whp
For a respectable engine build, easily add another 5k -- for reference, I am easily in for 4k in the engine alone when factoring in machine work. Then you have to think about damper + oil pump (600-800), injectors (400), ECU (600-1000) etc etc...
It is one of those all or nothing things, 200whp is easily doable (and has been done tons of times reliably for relatively little money) and a LOT of fun in these cars, my old setup put down 202/200 at the wheels and was a great amount of power for the chassis for about 4 years. I went down the rabbit hole because my oil pan was leaking and I had to tear the motor down that far anyways, and even having played with at least 5 different miatas over the past 8 years, I still underestimated the cost for 350+whp
Good luck, do your research -- the answers are out there (here on this forum even)
#5
Retired Mech Design Engr
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Sorry but the best answer is 6 months of looking through posts on this site and serious use of the search button.
We can be harsh to newcomers that want to be spoon fed.
The easy button is a system by MK turbo (the whole 4k+ one), a better cooling system, a better clutch, a good tune (or learn how yourself).
Maybe $5000-5500 all in.
Make a 200-225 hp car and enjoy it before you go down the rabbit hole of building a motor.
If your car is a decent running car now the above can be completed by an DIYer in maybe 2 weeks.
No engine work at all...
Until you drive a 225hp Miata for a month don't knock the low HP rating. It's a blast. Still forgiving but damn fun.
A 300 hp miata is a handful that beginners should not be allowed to drive unsupervised. More mods needed, more money to build.
A 400 hp miata is just flat dangerous, hard to control, daunting to drive, never out in the rain, a play toy only...
We can be harsh to newcomers that want to be spoon fed.
The easy button is a system by MK turbo (the whole 4k+ one), a better cooling system, a better clutch, a good tune (or learn how yourself).
Maybe $5000-5500 all in.
Make a 200-225 hp car and enjoy it before you go down the rabbit hole of building a motor.
If your car is a decent running car now the above can be completed by an DIYer in maybe 2 weeks.
No engine work at all...
Until you drive a 225hp Miata for a month don't knock the low HP rating. It's a blast. Still forgiving but damn fun.
A 300 hp miata is a handful that beginners should not be allowed to drive unsupervised. More mods needed, more money to build.
A 400 hp miata is just flat dangerous, hard to control, daunting to drive, never out in the rain, a play toy only...
Since you don't say what your plans are for the car, I may be off base.
So yeah. A definite +1 for technicalnija's advice. (My engine has never even been opened)
#6
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Oh DN you has too much gear!
Change to a 3.9 or better 3.6 and your car will be significantly faster.
Second gear will be much much better. First will still be useless...
And my list would be 200TW, dry pavement, and temps above 70. The 225 hp MSM I built for a customer will spin the rear tires easily in 1/2/3 on a cold day.
It can surprise you...
Change to a 3.9 or better 3.6 and your car will be significantly faster.
Second gear will be much much better. First will still be useless...
And my list would be 200TW, dry pavement, and temps above 70. The 225 hp MSM I built for a customer will spin the rear tires easily in 1/2/3 on a cold day.
It can surprise you...
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04-12-2012 05:42 PM