I am FAILaids - halp meh not be teh ghey
#21
Cpt. Slow
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So it's back at your house? An engine needs four things to run: spark, fuel, timing, and compression. Those first two are easy to check. Crank it a bit and check the plugs. If they're dry, you have a fuel issue. If not, ground all four plugs on the VC and check for spark. Move to the timing belt next, as the coils are now out of the way for removing the VC. Then move to compression, unless you have a gauge handy and want to check that first. Don't come back until a negative result is reached from one of these four tests. Sorry about my snippy attitude, bad day at work and I'm not sure how much diagnostic experience you have. These tests always point me in the right direction.
#24
Boost Pope
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[QUOTE=Sparetire;527606]Joe, stupid question time, but if a T-belt had snapped then the CAS will not send signal and so then COPs will not fire and thus no tach reading right?[quote]That's correct. If he's got a tach reading, it means that the timing belt has not broken.
Well, I suppose it's hypothetically possible that the belt might have jumped a dozen teeth or so and is thus no longer in the correct position. Easy to verify by pointing a timing light at the pulley and making sure that the notch is somewhere in the general vicinity of TDC while cranking.
gospeed, you got a battery charger? You're gonna need it.
So its 100% certain that the T-Belt is doing its job?
gospeed, you got a battery charger? You're gonna need it.
#25
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Nope...about to invest. Already dead.
Don't even feel like being out in the garage tonight. Emotionally drained from three days of motor swappage...really disappointed now. Maybe it will make sense in the morning.
Don't even feel like being out in the garage tonight. Emotionally drained from three days of motor swappage...really disappointed now. Maybe it will make sense in the morning.
#28
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Don't run that part-out post in your head yet! I did the same and quickly figured out I'd be at a big loss.
Listen man if that engine ends up bad if it helps any I've got a spare 1.8 block from a 97 with 87k, it's disassembled, spun a bearing, but there wasn't any critical damage to the crank or even rods. I'd be willing to ship it off to you for dirt cheap(A Ulysses S. Grant), PM me if your willing. I suppose this all depends on your engine and the condition of your internals.
I just feel your pain, I'm on my third engine myself :(
Listen man if that engine ends up bad if it helps any I've got a spare 1.8 block from a 97 with 87k, it's disassembled, spun a bearing, but there wasn't any critical damage to the crank or even rods. I'd be willing to ship it off to you for dirt cheap(A Ulysses S. Grant), PM me if your willing. I suppose this all depends on your engine and the condition of your internals.
I just feel your pain, I'm on my third engine myself :(
#29
Dude, you are currently in the same boat as I was when my baby popped on the way home from the dyno day. There is a fuel fuse under the dash (i think), you 100% sure that it is not blown?
I broke ring lands and was still able to drive home 100+mi trying to stay out of boost. If you blew the motor, ring lands would be what you blew. Trust me you would know it instantly, smoke would pour out the back like a scene from uncle buck. I have a feeling that your motor is fine. Get a cheap compression tester to verify.
I broke ring lands and was still able to drive home 100+mi trying to stay out of boost. If you blew the motor, ring lands would be what you blew. Trust me you would know it instantly, smoke would pour out the back like a scene from uncle buck. I have a feeling that your motor is fine. Get a cheap compression tester to verify.
#30
^Bingo.
I have been here.
Like when finding that a nice forged stroker shortblock ate a thrustbearing in under 10K miles due to a improperly installed crank. Or when a bolt for a motor mount snapped in the block, neccesitating removal. Or when a rebuilt trans has shifting problems.....after basically doing three installation rmeovals trying to figure it out. Or when a rear wheel bearing dies and makes the car almost undriveable after a really long day at work and then the local shop (which you have to use because you dont have a press) tells you that they need a 600 dollar part that magically does not have a part number in order to repair the car and you have to basically threaten them to get them to deal straight. Or.....
Some car days just suck. But they pass. Like they said, its probably something relatively minor. And then you will have a fun reliable car, braging rights, and yet more knowledge.
I have been here.
Like when finding that a nice forged stroker shortblock ate a thrustbearing in under 10K miles due to a improperly installed crank. Or when a bolt for a motor mount snapped in the block, neccesitating removal. Or when a rebuilt trans has shifting problems.....after basically doing three installation rmeovals trying to figure it out. Or when a rear wheel bearing dies and makes the car almost undriveable after a really long day at work and then the local shop (which you have to use because you dont have a press) tells you that they need a 600 dollar part that magically does not have a part number in order to repair the car and you have to basically threaten them to get them to deal straight. Or.....
Some car days just suck. But they pass. Like they said, its probably something relatively minor. And then you will have a fun reliable car, braging rights, and yet more knowledge.
#32
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[/hustler]
Glad to hear most think the motor didn't go. I started to remove plugs, but my wife came out and started bitchin'. Inside she told me she's tired of me thinking about nothing but that car.
I'm sure going to miss her.
#38
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I knew I should have done some datalogging, but old tune was both rich and retarded, and yesterday was test drive while reformatting new/old VAIO tuning laptop.
New theory is that the ARTech exhaust flow SO MUCH I was lean in high boost.
This is unlikely though, as previous exhaust was an open 2.5", no cat, that went STRAIGHT out the back of the car, no bends.
Oh yeah, and car goes before wife does.
#39
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Fun little update:
Pulled the plugs, 1&2 were dripping with oil, with oil seen on top of the pistons.
3&4 are dry, pistons look normal.
#1 piston looks like it has a clean, dull grey fragment of something sitting on top of it.
Right now things aren't looking good.
Still no sign of fuel injection.
NEO: If I've got power to MS I should have power to fuel injectors right? As Joe pointed out, I'm getting signal from temp sensor, which is same branch of harness. Where is the "fuel" fuse?
Pulled the plugs, 1&2 were dripping with oil, with oil seen on top of the pistons.
3&4 are dry, pistons look normal.
#1 piston looks like it has a clean, dull grey fragment of something sitting on top of it.
Right now things aren't looking good.
Still no sign of fuel injection.
NEO: If I've got power to MS I should have power to fuel injectors right? As Joe pointed out, I'm getting signal from temp sensor, which is same branch of harness. Where is the "fuel" fuse?
#40
http://neomiata.com/garage/1993_Miat...20Diagrams.pdf
INJ Fuse in the fuse box under the hood. On page 3.
INJ Fuse in the fuse box under the hood. On page 3.