How to remove a broken bolt
#23
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Nice write-up.
#27
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I've never tried it personally, but that recipe has been floating around since at least the 70s. I've heard of it from more than one old mechanic, so I tend to assume it's true.
Personally, I've always just used liquid wrench (and heat).
Personally, I've always just used liquid wrench (and heat).
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I know "liquid wrench" is more of a generic term, like Kleenex or Xerox copies, but you really need to try PB blaster. So much better. Being where you are, you probably don't have to deal with rust the way I do, though.
Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
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Well, I was referring specifically to Gunk brand Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil, but I have to admit that I've never tried PB Blaster or any of the others. But you're right- I grew up in Florida and now live in SoCal, so massively rusted fasteners aren't something I encounter on a daily basis.
#31
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The torch and wax trick dose work, I do not use it on alum tho.
On a cast iron part, you will heat it enough to glow orange, then touch it with wax, I use Gulf canning wax, Then wiggle it till you get a bit of movement.
PB Blaster is ok, I perfer Sea Foam Deep Creep, Not to expensive and works well.
On a cast iron part, you will heat it enough to glow orange, then touch it with wax, I use Gulf canning wax, Then wiggle it till you get a bit of movement.
PB Blaster is ok, I perfer Sea Foam Deep Creep, Not to expensive and works well.
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I know "liquid wrench" is more of a generic term, like Kleenex or Xerox copies, but you really need to try PB blaster. So much better. Being where you are, you probably don't have to deal with rust the way I do, though.
Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
Kroil is better still, but expensive, and as far as I've seen, only available from the company through mail order.
Can't count the number of ez-outs I've broken off in parts, so I soak the crap out of the part in kroil/pb days before even attempting to remove whatever it is. Attempting to upgrade my front sway bar left the drivers side bracket with a broken bolt, broken ez-out, and broken high dollar twist-drill. That causes me to locate a new sway bar bracket from a non-rustbucket car, in the process of removing said bracket from my car left one of the bolts spinning inside the frame rail. They're held on with IIRC 4 bolts and 4 spot welds and the upper left hand bolt on the outside just spun freely after hitting it with an impact. Solution to that, weld that corner of the bracket. :(
Once again Nice write up, SVO.
#33
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After procrastinating for about a year I finally went at removing a snapped valve cover bolt today. It was nerve racking having a drill so close to my cams/valves etc. but I sealed everything off and actually managed to drill a straight hole today. Couldn't get the easy out to do anything by hand so I decided to throw it in the drill and give it a go. A few quick taps on the trigger to give a bit of on/off torque to the bolt and it came out ease. Chased the hole and it's all good.
#36
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There is a box of dead Ez-outs growing in my drillbit drawer. They really only seem to be suited for stripped heads and not high torque situations. I have had really good luck with reverse thread drillbits though. Also a note on drilling hard metal - use cutting fluid and keep the drill RPMs in the hundreds, not thousands. You want the bit to cut through the metal, not burn through it.
#38
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+1 for PB Blaster, Kroil, and Heat. A combination of those and ez-out.
Can't count the number of ez-outs I've broken off in parts, so I soak the crap out of the part in kroil/pb days before even attempting to remove whatever it is. Attempting to upgrade my front sway bar left the drivers side bracket with a broken bolt, broken ez-out, and broken high dollar twist-drill. That causes me to locate a new sway bar bracket from a non-rustbucket car, in the process of removing said bracket from my car left one of the bolts spinning inside the frame rail. They're held on with IIRC 4 bolts and 4 spot welds and the upper left hand bolt on the outside just spun freely after hitting it with an impact. Solution to that, weld that corner of the bracket. :(
Once again Nice write up, SVO.
Can't count the number of ez-outs I've broken off in parts, so I soak the crap out of the part in kroil/pb days before even attempting to remove whatever it is. Attempting to upgrade my front sway bar left the drivers side bracket with a broken bolt, broken ez-out, and broken high dollar twist-drill. That causes me to locate a new sway bar bracket from a non-rustbucket car, in the process of removing said bracket from my car left one of the bolts spinning inside the frame rail. They're held on with IIRC 4 bolts and 4 spot welds and the upper left hand bolt on the outside just spun freely after hitting it with an impact. Solution to that, weld that corner of the bracket. :(
Once again Nice write up, SVO.
I've never broken a bolt on my rusty Volvo 240 which has seen 20 New England winters. I've broken dozens on my rust free miata
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-Zach
#40
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When installing spec miata hardtop brackets 4 out of the 6 top, front latch bolts broke off. I broke two easy outs, but was able to re-tap 3 of the four. Oh, and I also drilled a hole straight through my ------- hardtop.
I think the moral of the story is, be very cautious with easy outs.
I think the moral of the story is, be very cautious with easy outs.
I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the head, then heated it with a heat gun and backed them out with a flathead.