Ok, I've been reading of people who put in a turbo for cheap. So i went with the begi-s non-intercooled, garrett 2554, walbro 255HP, begi fmu set for 50 at 0 psi, only running 5-6psi, and full 2.5 inch exhaust from dump back.

This is on a 96 1.8 swap into a stock 90 still running the stock ecu. Begi told me to retard the timing to 6 degrees BTD. I also have a egt that reads all the way to 2000 degrees f. At redline at max boost the egt only reads 1320 f. This seems a little low to me.

My question is how long can i run on this tuning? Also it seems a little sluggish at full throttle than at 3/4. What would be some recommendations to fix this with only a little dough.

 

If its not detonating you can run it until your pump gives out. You probly have to much pressure on the FMU adjust your fueling to pic up alil power however peiceing together some WI or a DIY shudder intercooler will help you make more power in the long run.

 

even a bipes type unit will help you out a little bit, you've got absolutely no aftermarket electronics controlling your ignition right now. If you can solder look into a DIY megasuirt (not the PnP)for not much more $$.

 

what is this diy megasquirt the only one i've ever heard of is the pnpmegasquirt? I looked on diy autotune but there is no description of the packages. Which one should i be looking at?

 

well you said nothing about monitoring detonation or AFR in general so I suspect this car will run great for another 100-k miles.

 

DIY as in you-build-it-yourself. This is a great way to learn the ins and outs of engine management.

The answer is: no one can say. The better your engine control and tune, the longer it will last.

Retarding the stock timing across the range is the ham-fisted approach, and you're compromising big time. Standalone engine management (as opposed to a piggy-back) is the choice solution. Megasquirt will run you a couple of hundred dollars and is a huge bang-for-the-buck item.

May as well sell the FMU when you go w/ Megasquirt, get larger injectors and a wideband at least.

 

7.4

 

thanks for the advice which megasquirt kit should i be looking for if i wanted to go the diy route? I just bought a wideband from aem so i will have that part taken care of.

 

you got it wrong, it's

42

 

never mind on which kit to buy i just found the sticky explaining and listing all that i need.

 

is that metric or SAE?

 

MS-I V3.0 if DIY, MS-II if you're adventerous, MSPNP if you're not up for the challenge.

Also, for better or worse, this website doesn't work the way you think it does.

This is more an "advanced users" forum, Everyone here will expect you to do your own research, so start doing searches on this site. Any basic questions like those you've asked are going to be met with abuse and suggestions that you do creative things with transgenders.....it's just like that here.

Ok, have fun.

 

thanks for the help and heads up fluke. Yeah i just read a thread the other day where someone asked some pretty noob questions and got toasted for it. I'll make sure to do more research before posting

 

If you go to the for sale forum there's a sticky, Braineack builds and sells megasquirts really cheap. That's definitely the route I would take. With the proper tune on 5-6psi the car should last a very long time.

 

It depends how you drive it. My car makes anywhere from 300whp to 250whp (when the turbo gets loose) on the track for 2-hours per track day...I don't expect the rings to last as long as it would at 28" of vacuum. If its street driven with 12:1 AFR in boost and enough spark to not burn the valves with no detonation then why would it not last as long as other production turbo cars, 200k?

 

Well i will soon know what my afr's are and as far as i know i have no detonation (fingers crossed). I don't hear it and from what i heard it should be audible. I know that i'm runnin extremely rich most that i have asked have said that their egt's are around 1500-1600 and some higher at full boost at redline and im only at 1320! a megasquirt would be great!