Forged Rods - Suggestions?
#1
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Had a "small" engine issue....
I beleive I have read a few years ago here, chinese is "okay".
So just checking what the "forums" current consensus and advice on rods might be. Iif it was just the rods, we would spend the money on Manly...but we also need a crank and possibly a block and all the machining/balancing etc that goes with it, so budget and saving a few hundred here or there is an issue (as usual).
Full race engine. Rev limit 7500 - 8000 depending on torque curve. Borg Warner turbo running max of 22 psi around 350 whp.
Landed in NZ.
Manly - Supermiata approx $790.00
Eagle $650.00
Maxpeedingrods $450.00
appreciate any advice for or against whats listed or anything else to consider?
I beleive I have read a few years ago here, chinese is "okay".
So just checking what the "forums" current consensus and advice on rods might be. Iif it was just the rods, we would spend the money on Manly...but we also need a crank and possibly a block and all the machining/balancing etc that goes with it, so budget and saving a few hundred here or there is an issue (as usual).
Full race engine. Rev limit 7500 - 8000 depending on torque curve. Borg Warner turbo running max of 22 psi around 350 whp.
Landed in NZ.
Manly - Supermiata approx $790.00
Eagle $650.00
Maxpeedingrods $450.00
appreciate any advice for or against whats listed or anything else to consider?
#6
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The Manley rods are listed for $359 on SPM's page. Is the cost to import that high? They all start out in China except for the Carrilo. On your budget I would go for The K1's or Manely. Next would be Eagle. Before you spend money on balancing make sure your know why and what your trying to accomplish. On an inline 4 the crank is balanced to zero and the indvidual components are balance to each other. The aftermarket pitsons and rods are very well balnanced. The factory specs for the crank that I have seen are good.
Had a "small" engine issue....
I beleive I have read a few years ago here, chinese is "okay".
So just checking what the "forums" current consensus and advice on rods might be. Iif it was just the rods, we would spend the money on Manly...but we also need a crank and possibly a block and all the machining/balancing etc that goes with it, so budget and saving a few hundred here or there is an issue (as usual).
Full race engine. Rev limit 7500 - 8000 depending on torque curve. Borg Warner turbo running max of 22 psi around 350 whp.
Landed in NZ.
Manly - Supermiata approx $790.00
Eagle $650.00
Maxpeedingrods $450.00
appreciate any advice for or against whats listed or anything else to consider?
I beleive I have read a few years ago here, chinese is "okay".
So just checking what the "forums" current consensus and advice on rods might be. Iif it was just the rods, we would spend the money on Manly...but we also need a crank and possibly a block and all the machining/balancing etc that goes with it, so budget and saving a few hundred here or there is an issue (as usual).
Full race engine. Rev limit 7500 - 8000 depending on torque curve. Borg Warner turbo running max of 22 psi around 350 whp.
Landed in NZ.
Manly - Supermiata approx $790.00
Eagle $650.00
Maxpeedingrods $450.00
appreciate any advice for or against whats listed or anything else to consider?
#8
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What was the small issue that took out the entire short block?
All of the rods you mentioned should work (after proper inspection).
I have found Chinese products with a brand association are higher quality than the no-name.
I would lean to Manly then Eagle and pass on Max-speeding.
However, your car is top of class and used in competition.
You are about as hard core as they come. It's not a street car occasionally used for track days.
You have a race car that is occasionally used for street duty.
Carrillo A-beams is what I'd want for your application. Super light and made in USA.
I'd also want suggestions from Supermiata.
I'd give more weight to their suggestions over everyone else...
What rods were you using and how did they die?
I'm always looking for the root problem; so often this is overlooked and the new fancy parts end up trashed in the same manner.
All of the rods you mentioned should work (after proper inspection).
I have found Chinese products with a brand association are higher quality than the no-name.
I would lean to Manly then Eagle and pass on Max-speeding.
However, your car is top of class and used in competition.
You are about as hard core as they come. It's not a street car occasionally used for track days.
You have a race car that is occasionally used for street duty.
Carrillo A-beams is what I'd want for your application. Super light and made in USA.
I'd also want suggestions from Supermiata.
I'd give more weight to their suggestions over everyone else...
What rods were you using and how did they die?
I'm always looking for the root problem; so often this is overlooked and the new fancy parts end up trashed in the same manner.
#10
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What was the small issue that took out the entire short block?
All of the rods you mentioned should work (after proper inspection).
I have found Chinese products with a brand association are higher quality than the no-name.
I would lean to Manly then Eagle and pass on Max-speeding.
However, your car is top of class and used in competition.
You are about as hard core as they come. It's not a street car occasionally used for track days.
You have a race car that is occasionally used for street duty.
Carrillo A-beams is what I'd want for your application. Super light and made in USA.
I'd also want suggestions from Supermiata.
I'd give more weight to their suggestions over everyone else...
What rods were you using and how did they die?
I'm always looking for the root problem; so often this is overlooked and the new fancy parts end up trashed in the same manner.
All of the rods you mentioned should work (after proper inspection).
I have found Chinese products with a brand association are higher quality than the no-name.
I would lean to Manly then Eagle and pass on Max-speeding.
However, your car is top of class and used in competition.
You are about as hard core as they come. It's not a street car occasionally used for track days.
You have a race car that is occasionally used for street duty.
Carrillo A-beams is what I'd want for your application. Super light and made in USA.
I'd also want suggestions from Supermiata.
I'd give more weight to their suggestions over everyone else...
What rods were you using and how did they die?
I'm always looking for the root problem; so often this is overlooked and the new fancy parts end up trashed in the same manner.
At this point we believe the root cause was a miscalculation/mistake on our behalf when installing the K-Miata ZF Gearbox kit.
The clutch master that was supplied in the kit wouldn't fit in the left hand drive vehicle.So we looked up the size of the original BMW Master for the vehicle the ZF comes with (E36 etc) and replaced with a shorter unit that did fit.
Turns out that we should have specifically replicated the size of the supplied unit (it turns out it was different) rather than the original BMW one as we believe in hindsite that we ended up with enough clutch preload to completely ruin the thrust washers on the crank but had zero clutch slip.
There were indications of things not being right but the ZF is a sealed, internal slave setup so you cant check that freeplay (that we are aware of yet, wil be looking further in to that) and with zero clutch slip we never really thought it was possible...but it turns out it is
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Amazing it lasted so long, about 18 months and 5-6 race meetings, various drives around town. We thought the ZF gearbox was quite noisey and I had ordered a spare, and the idle was sort of vibey in the car which we never really figured out. The nosie turns out to be a thrust Bearing always on and my guess is the vibes were the crank with zero end float. though this might still be my imagination.
Ruined crank in thrust washer area (one half was gone, the other almost gone), possbily block for same reason and the number 4 rod big end is out of round due to the bearing failing in that end of the motor (A good, loud knock was the final death call).
Engine rebuild and then back to figuring out why we have massive overboost issues with the Bog Warner EFR 6758.
#13
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We have run Manleys in motors that saw 8500 rpm. No failures but more rapid bearing wear even running thick ol, oil cooler and lots of pressure. I think that's the result of that heavy N/A piston, heavy rods and lots of revs.
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#16
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I run Crower A beams in my N/A engine to 9k constantly. That is with high compression Wiseco pistons. Several events back I hit an overrev to 10,800 and the engine stayed together which tells me the rods and bolts aren't at their limit at 9k. They only run 3/8" ARP 2000 bolts though.
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