Forged rods with arp2000.... $225
#1
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Found these on ebay earlier, forged 4340 h beam, arp2k or arp 8740 hardware for $225 Anybody heard of SGI? I did some googlin and sounds like Scat, Elgin, C.A.T. RPM, Procomp, Sgi and some others are all coming from the same chineses factory.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SGI-Forged-R...#ht_969wt_1037
I wouldn't use them to the "1000hp" or "9000rpm" but might be nice for a sub 300hp street build.
Thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SGI-Forged-R...#ht_969wt_1037
I wouldn't use them to the "1000hp" or "9000rpm" but might be nice for a sub 300hp street build.
Thoughts?
#3
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First I would ask how heavy they are and what the return policy is if you get one thats out of spec. Actually, I just picked up the phone and called the guy. Good english, seemed knowledgeable, looked up the weight at 530 grams. Only the H-beams are available. I asked him about return if one was out of spec, he said he's never had one come back, but if one did he would make it right. I would look at buying these.
What are you choosing for pistons?
What are you choosing for pistons?
#7
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Havnt decided yet on pistons. My power goals are gonna be around 250, maybe 300 later on. Higher way down the road but I'll probably be in the motor before that anyways so power goal on this build will be 300. At the moment my 170k motors smokin up top and burning oil so she needs a rebuild anyways, the current plan is rods and arp studs (maybe valve seals?). Plus I need a clutch so motors comin out anyways
I'm trying to decide if I want to go forged pistons (which would require bore, hone and and pistons so around $700 extra) or just hone and re-ring the stock pistons. Stock should be fine for 300hp but they also have 170k miles so idk. Been looking at supertechs for $400 on eBay though if I do get forged but really don't want to spend the money unless I have to.
I'm trying to decide if I want to go forged pistons (which would require bore, hone and and pistons so around $700 extra) or just hone and re-ring the stock pistons. Stock should be fine for 300hp but they also have 170k miles so idk. Been looking at supertechs for $400 on eBay though if I do get forged but really don't want to spend the money unless I have to.
#11
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Lmao, I moved my monitor around to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks on me. yikes though, no good. Ya, everything I've read suggests 250 is really the limit for the rods. Pistons should be ok to around 325 though? Obviously i would re-ring and hone but am i crazy for considering using high mileage pistons?
Thanks mr hyde, exactly the kind of feedback i was looking for, post in here if you get them weighed.
Ps y8s how would you even know the bhp lol? I'm doubting you dyoed the motor on a stand
Thanks mr hyde, exactly the kind of feedback i was looking for, post in here if you get them weighed.
Ps y8s how would you even know the bhp lol? I'm doubting you dyoed the motor on a stand
#12
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From my reading, the consensus on Chinese rods is they are plenty strong for a normal build under 400whp. The benefit to spending well over a grand on Corrillos or something comparable is lower weight. For my purposes and budget, these will be fine. Someone else can handle the question of high mileage pistons. I'm using a set from the MSM block I stripped that had ~60k on them and look fine. A light hone, some rings, bearings and these rods and I'm done but I'm not looking to set any 1.8 power records either.
#13
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These are the same as all the other cheap rods out there. I am making just shy of 300whp on a 1.6L with them.
Really... how many threads need to be made about these rods? Do you really think all these individual Ebay sellers are making their own rods in some factory? No. They all get them from the same place.
Really... how many threads need to be made about these rods? Do you really think all these individual Ebay sellers are making their own rods in some factory? No. They all get them from the same place.
#14
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Lmao, I moved my monitor around to make sure my eyes weren't playing tricks on me. yikes though, no good. Ya, everything I've read suggests 250 is really the limit for the rods. Pistons should be ok to around 325 though? Obviously i would re-ring and hone but am i crazy for considering using high mileage pistons?
Thanks mr hyde, exactly the kind of feedback i was looking for, post in here if you get them weighed.
Ps y8s how would you even know the bhp lol? I'm doubting you dyoed the motor on a stand
Thanks mr hyde, exactly the kind of feedback i was looking for, post in here if you get them weighed.
Ps y8s how would you even know the bhp lol? I'm doubting you dyoed the motor on a stand
#15
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These are the same as all the other cheap rods out there. I am making just shy of 300whp on a 1.6L with them.
Really... how many threads need to be made about these rods? Do you really think all these individual Ebay sellers are making their own rods in some factory? No. They all get them from the same place.
Really... how many threads need to be made about these rods? Do you really think all these individual Ebay sellers are making their own rods in some factory? No. They all get them from the same place.
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#16
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It's like when everyone says they're disease free and practice safe sex yet somehow, an estimated 50% of the population has some type of herpes.
If I wasn't lazy and had no garage and funding, I'd already have a built motor for my 250rwhp car... but until then, wavy gravy.
#17
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For every instance of a wavy gravy rod sub 300whp, percentage wise, how many are fine? Fortunately I can't see thru my aluminum oil pan, but my engine is running fine and may or may not have wavy gravy.
Just like all chinese turbos come from the same factory, right? I agree, it's not likely there's more than one factory in chingdong that makes XX part.![The Brain](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/the_brain.gif)
Just like all chinese turbos come from the same factory, right? I agree, it's not likely there's more than one factory in chingdong that makes XX part.
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I think it's safe to say at this point that any $2xx.xx set of rods on ebay will be fine.
http://www.catpep.com/
#18
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Ahh I see what your gettin at there.
I think I'm going to go with the stock pistons unless its a bad idea to use high mileage pistons. Its high milage from the PO commuting alot in KC, its had about 10k miles under me n/a and 2k boosted. Might take a look around for some used pistons out of a 94-97 for lower compression and lower miles. (I know the wear won't be identical to my motor, but with hone and rings it should be fine)
I think I'm going to go with the stock pistons unless its a bad idea to use high mileage pistons. Its high milage from the PO commuting alot in KC, its had about 10k miles under me n/a and 2k boosted. Might take a look around for some used pistons out of a 94-97 for lower compression and lower miles. (I know the wear won't be identical to my motor, but with hone and rings it should be fine)
#19
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Ahh I see what your gettin at there.
I think I'm going to go with the stock pistons unless its a bad idea to use high mileage pistons. Its high milage from the PO commuting alot in KC, its had about 10k miles under me n/a and 2k boosted. Might take a look around for some used pistons out of a 94-97 for lower compression and lower miles. (I know the wear won't be identical to my motor, but with hone and rings it should be fine)
I think I'm going to go with the stock pistons unless its a bad idea to use high mileage pistons. Its high milage from the PO commuting alot in KC, its had about 10k miles under me n/a and 2k boosted. Might take a look around for some used pistons out of a 94-97 for lower compression and lower miles. (I know the wear won't be identical to my motor, but with hone and rings it should be fine)
Yes, I spaghettied rods at about 250 whp too. I was making 17-18 psi on a bell shanghai, I noodled 2, (They looked worse than y8s's) and snapped one about 3/4" below the wrist pin...