Fab9 COP Install Issues (99NB / DIYPNP / 36-2 Tooth trigger wheel)
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Edit - Found the solution: It was either:
1. The red power wire that runs from the coil driver to the supplied 4 pin connector, was not seated fully. (I removed the wire, cut back more of the cable, re-seated (with some adhesive),
2.The bolt holding the ground bracket at the front of the intake manifold was not tight enough.
I’ve hit the next hiccup on my road to finishing my built engine 1999 NB GT2871R (china charger).
Overview:
Here’re my Ignition Settings:
1. The red power wire that runs from the coil driver to the supplied 4 pin connector, was not seated fully. (I removed the wire, cut back more of the cable, re-seated (with some adhesive),
2.The bolt holding the ground bracket at the front of the intake manifold was not tight enough.
I’ve hit the next hiccup on my road to finishing my built engine 1999 NB GT2871R (china charger).
Overview:
- Prior to the COP install, the car was running very well and seemingly making good power for my otherwise budget setup (250+ ftlb on a virtual dyno).
- This setup included a DIYPNP, and a 36-2 Tooth Trigger wheel. I’m not aware of any other parts worth mentioning here, but let me know.
- The car is setup for Wasted Spark. It was previously running on BKR6E @ ~0.033. I installed Denso iridium ik24 plugs with the COP’s
- Whenever the car reaches roughly 3K RPMs:
- The tach will flutter, as if it momentarily lost power.
- The check engine light will momentarily come on/flicker.
- The car loses power as if it hit spark cut.
- I noticed a SYNC 2 Error (missing tooth at wrong time)
- My Innovate LC-2 wideband AFR reading is now out of sync with my DIYPNP AFR reading. It’s worth noting that upon installing the LC-2 a few months back, I had to enter custom parameters into TunerStudio for the DIYPNP to align with the LC-2.
- I ensured the Fab9 pencil coils are fully seated.
- Adjusted Dwell Settings from 3.2 to 3.6ms
- Tried gapping plugs at .026 and 0.35, no effect.
- Closed the gap between the trigger wheel teeth and the Crank Angle Sensor
Here’re my Ignition Settings:
![Name: Ignition%20-%20Settings.png
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Last edited by Carloverx; 01-22-2017 at 05:44 PM.
#3
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I have the same Fab9 setup on my 2000 but use the stock trigger wheel so can't help on the left side. They've been on the car for 2 years and before I put the MKTurbo stuff on. Everythings been fine at 15psi boost with no ignition problems. Here's my settings on the right side for comparisons.
One suggestion, if you insist on using them, make sure you have the latest igniter as the early ones had issues (I never had the issues but updated it anyway). Also, make sure all the connectors/grounds are right.
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/744x692/ignition_settings_bcaf53839f6cd4ac9bdef6c7eea2698f23a033c5.png)
#4
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That's one way.
I have the same Fab9 setup on my 2000 but use the stock trigger wheel so can't help on the left side. They've been on the car for 2 years and before I put the MKTurbo stuff on. Everythings been fine at 15psi boost with no ignition problems. Here's my settings on the right side for comparisons.
One suggestion, if you insist on using them, make sure you have the latest igniter as the early ones had issues (I never had the issues but updated it anyway). Also, make sure all the connectors/grounds are right.
I have the same Fab9 setup on my 2000 but use the stock trigger wheel so can't help on the left side. They've been on the car for 2 years and before I put the MKTurbo stuff on. Everythings been fine at 15psi boost with no ignition problems. Here's my settings on the right side for comparisons.
One suggestion, if you insist on using them, make sure you have the latest igniter as the early ones had issues (I never had the issues but updated it anyway). Also, make sure all the connectors/grounds are right.
This said, I found the solution: It was either
1. The red power wire that runs from the coil driver to the supplied 4 pin connector, was not seated fully. (I removed the wire, cut back more of the cable, re-seated (with some adhesive),
2.The bolt holding the ground bracket at the front of the intake manifold was not tight enough.
In any event, car is back up and running well. Will continue to tune next weekend.