Engine Build Compression Recommendations?
#1
Engine Build Compression Recommendations?
Hello turbo people, as the title suggest I'm looking at doing an engine rebuild and just would like some input from people with more first-hand experience than my none.
Basically my engine has bad compression on a cylinder due to bad rings, but because replacing rings is going that deep anyway I decided I'd like to do an engine bore/rebuild. Basically the plan so far is upgraded rods, race bearings, forged pistons, stronger head gasket, and ARP studs. With all these fancy zoom bits I was planning on running the stock 9.0:1 compression ratio, on a 84mm overbore. Eventually Id like to go turbo, however because this build is already going to be a pretty penny, it wont be immediate by any means. Now my hesitation came after I called the machine shop I plan on using for the boring. While talking to the machinist who claimed to have 20+ years experience machining/tuning engines he said that if I plan on running a turbo with up to 15psi (ill probably leave it at 9 for most of the time, just 15 if I see a mustang who needs beating) on the engine running stock compression on pump gas (92 octane where I live), Im probably going to blow my engine. Doing research on the internet and here it doesn't look like alot of people blow engines running below 15psi, assuming they have a good tune.
Basically my question to the boost guru's on here is what would you recommend? Running lower compression on N/A for a little while while I wait for funds just to have the peace of mind once the boost is there? Or will I be fine with stock compression and still get some bonus pony's while I'm waiting for turbo funds?
Any input is highly appreciated, Thank you boost people and feel free to make fun of me if this is a retarded post
Basically my engine has bad compression on a cylinder due to bad rings, but because replacing rings is going that deep anyway I decided I'd like to do an engine bore/rebuild. Basically the plan so far is upgraded rods, race bearings, forged pistons, stronger head gasket, and ARP studs. With all these fancy zoom bits I was planning on running the stock 9.0:1 compression ratio, on a 84mm overbore. Eventually Id like to go turbo, however because this build is already going to be a pretty penny, it wont be immediate by any means. Now my hesitation came after I called the machine shop I plan on using for the boring. While talking to the machinist who claimed to have 20+ years experience machining/tuning engines he said that if I plan on running a turbo with up to 15psi (ill probably leave it at 9 for most of the time, just 15 if I see a mustang who needs beating) on the engine running stock compression on pump gas (92 octane where I live), Im probably going to blow my engine. Doing research on the internet and here it doesn't look like alot of people blow engines running below 15psi, assuming they have a good tune.
Basically my question to the boost guru's on here is what would you recommend? Running lower compression on N/A for a little while while I wait for funds just to have the peace of mind once the boost is there? Or will I be fine with stock compression and still get some bonus pony's while I'm waiting for turbo funds?
Any input is highly appreciated, Thank you boost people and feel free to make fun of me if this is a retarded post
#4
So basically your saying running the same boost on a 9:1 vs 8.6:1, the 8.6 would be able to handle more spark advance meaning more torque, but would this increase spool time or does it all end up with the same **** aside from my torque numbers? Sorry for the noob questions, I appreciate your help man thank you.
#5
same spool on pump, these engines are ancient and don't have variable cam trickery, opening up flow from both sides is where you gain spool
this all assumes pump gas.
if you use e85, throw all that out the window and run as high compression as you can making huge power and torque everywhere
this all assumes pump gas.
if you use e85, throw all that out the window and run as high compression as you can making huge power and torque everywhere
#7
Devil's Advocate: You don't have to know anything about a turbo miata to be able to successfully bore and hone a pretty standard and un-special decades old closed deck iron block milquetoast motor.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
#10
Devil's Advocate: You don't have to know anything about a turbo miata to be able to successfully bore and hone a pretty standard and un-special decades old closed deck iron block milquetoast motor.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
^Wisdom.
The machinist I took my stuff to builds american hot rod motors. While he had a lot of tips and tricks, I just gave him the specs I wanted (after searching this site, and probing build threads and forum recommendations and experiences). He did what he was paid to, and did a pretty damn good job as far as I've been able to tell. Same guy that slapdashed Soviet's motor. His name is Bob. The machine shop is dingy and janky looking under a Napa auto parts.
#12
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Devil's Advocate: You don't have to know anything about a turbo miata to be able to successfully bore and hone a pretty standard and un-special decades old closed deck iron block milquetoast motor.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
Just don't take tuning advice from him. You do that from a tuner. You also wouldn't take a block to be bored to your tuner.
#14
Again, OP is talking about a block bore/hone. I agree with you a point: If he's looking for a Miata expert, go somewhere else. I don't know what OP's knowledge base is like or what he's actually looking for, but it doesn't sound like he's looking for a one stop shop that will put together his motor, install it, and t00n it. My only sentiment is that i saw nothing there that would scare me away from having something so simple and un-specific as a bore/hone.
#15
As long as you give him specs to follow and he follows them to a tee, there's no problem.
The one issue I have with people like that is that if you don't give him specific instructions or he doesn't follow em, he could hog out the bores like crazy or not use a torque plate, or use some ghetto rigged plate from some other car, or gap the rings too loose or too tight, PTW clearance, etc etc. stuff they generally think "applies to all engines" when it's not that simple or easy. Different engines require their own different approaches.
The one issue I have with people like that is that if you don't give him specific instructions or he doesn't follow em, he could hog out the bores like crazy or not use a torque plate, or use some ghetto rigged plate from some other car, or gap the rings too loose or too tight, PTW clearance, etc etc. stuff they generally think "applies to all engines" when it's not that simple or easy. Different engines require their own different approaches.
#16
As long as you give him specs to follow and he follows them to a tee, there's no problem.
The one issue I have with people like that is that if you don't give him specific instructions or he doesn't follow em, he could hog out the bores like crazy or not use a torque plate, or use some ghetto rigged plate from some other car, or gap the rings too loose or too tight, PTW clearance, etc etc. stuff they generally think "applies to all engines" when it's not that simple or easy. Different engines require their own different approaches.
The one issue I have with people like that is that if you don't give him specific instructions or he doesn't follow em, he could hog out the bores like crazy or not use a torque plate, or use some ghetto rigged plate from some other car, or gap the rings too loose or too tight, PTW clearance, etc etc. stuff they generally think "applies to all engines" when it's not that simple or easy. Different engines require their own different approaches.
Not to mention the different material characteristics of piston alloys etc
#17
OP, I have an idea. Rather than spend the money on building a motor right this second, why don't you buy a used 1.8? Tiger Japanese - Home this is where I got mine. Use the left over money to buy turbo bits for your car. I ran 10psi for years with no issues. Then, save some money and build your other motor. Keeps the car running, gets turbo goodness sooner, and ends with a built motor.
#18
OP, I have an idea. Rather than spend the money on building a motor right this second, why don't you buy a used 1.8? Tiger Japanese - Home this is where I got mine. Use the left over money to buy turbo bits for your car. I ran 10psi for years with no issues. Then, save some money and build your other motor. Keeps the car running, gets turbo goodness sooner, and ends with a built motor.