Coolant Temps due to Intercooler?
#1
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I was out tuning my idle today and I noticed for the first time ever my coolant temps topped 200. While cruising around (and doing a few full power starts) the temps were around 205-210. Then I let the car sit for about 10 minutes idling and they climbed all the way to 219.
I know these temps are still within normal operating temps (albeit a bit high) but could they be from the intercooler blocking the radiator?
Thanks!
I know these temps are still within normal operating temps (albeit a bit high) but could they be from the intercooler blocking the radiator?
Thanks!
#5
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It's not a large intercooler, here's a pic (please excuse the quality):
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/members/d-dutton9512-14359-albums-random-208-picture-img-1036-1055.jpg)
I am on the stock radiator but I just tried running the fans in parallel. It looks like that helped a lot as a never saw temps go above 200. Stopped at idle they did reach 197 for a few seconds before dropping back down to 194. When moving they stayed between 187 and 191. The only reason I mention this is I wouldn't imaging the fans do much above 30mph so I don't understand the drop. I might just need to monitor it for a few days and see.
What do you guys think of the MIZU or Mishimoto all aluminums? I know it's not the best rad out there but I am on a budget right now and with only 7lbs I would hope it's enough for $240.
![](https://www.miataturbo.net/members/d-dutton9512-14359-albums-random-208-picture-img-1036-1055.jpg)
I am on the stock radiator but I just tried running the fans in parallel. It looks like that helped a lot as a never saw temps go above 200. Stopped at idle they did reach 197 for a few seconds before dropping back down to 194. When moving they stayed between 187 and 191. The only reason I mention this is I wouldn't imaging the fans do much above 30mph so I don't understand the drop. I might just need to monitor it for a few days and see.
What do you guys think of the MIZU or Mishimoto all aluminums? I know it's not the best rad out there but I am on a budget right now and with only 7lbs I would hope it's enough for $240.
#10
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Let me get this straight, when you turned on the fan that's not blocked by a gigantic fog light or block of aluminum (intercooler) it actually worked?!? Get out!
Ditch the fog lights, run your stock fans in parallel with a mishimoto radiator. Yes we like them, I race mine and it's great, especially with a reroute. Just don't use the crappy radiator cap that comes with it.
Ditch the fog lights, run your stock fans in parallel with a mishimoto radiator. Yes we like them, I race mine and it's great, especially with a reroute. Just don't use the crappy radiator cap that comes with it.
#14
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to ditch the fog lamps and get a new cap tomorrow. I know the fans work cause I've watched them turn on with my own eyes
.
The thermostat is a brand new 180. I ran a 160 for a while although the car WOULD NOT reach operating temp so I took it out. I've been driving around and working on my AC idle and I haven't seen it jump above 200 yet. In fact during cruise it sits at 186 which I know is too cool.
It's amazing. I set out this morning to make my AC work with the mspnp (which I still haven't accomplished) and ended up with a complete rethink of my cooling system. I've also got everything I need for the reroute I just need to find time to put it in.
I'm also considering creating some kind of shroud. I had to remove the black plastic one (not the undertray but the one that fits in the mouth of the car) and it won't go back in with the IC. Perhaps I could pickup a sheet of aluminum and creating a new one that will assist with airflow from the fans.
![wink](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The thermostat is a brand new 180. I ran a 160 for a while although the car WOULD NOT reach operating temp so I took it out. I've been driving around and working on my AC idle and I haven't seen it jump above 200 yet. In fact during cruise it sits at 186 which I know is too cool.
It's amazing. I set out this morning to make my AC work with the mspnp (which I still haven't accomplished) and ended up with a complete rethink of my cooling system. I've also got everything I need for the reroute I just need to find time to put it in.
I'm also considering creating some kind of shroud. I had to remove the black plastic one (not the undertray but the one that fits in the mouth of the car) and it won't go back in with the IC. Perhaps I could pickup a sheet of aluminum and creating a new one that will assist with airflow from the fans.
Last edited by D.dutton9512; 05-02-2010 at 09:28 PM.
#15
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OP, I just did an Mtuned reroute and the parallel fan mod and found clt readings to be about 10C lower on average. I've got a stock rad and a begi #2 intercooler (completely fills the "mouth" opening) with no shrouding or undertray.
At 8psi I'm seeing 0 increase in IAT and max 1C increase CLT under sustained boost. With fans coming on at 88C I'm seeing 95C operating temps and as low as 92C with the heater on.
Pre reroute and fan mod my clt was pegged at 102C operating with the heater on full blast but again I've got a more obstructive intercooler.
At 8psi I'm seeing 0 increase in IAT and max 1C increase CLT under sustained boost. With fans coming on at 88C I'm seeing 95C operating temps and as low as 92C with the heater on.
Pre reroute and fan mod my clt was pegged at 102C operating with the heater on full blast but again I've got a more obstructive intercooler.
#16
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Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to ditch the fog lamps and get a new cap tomorrow. I know the fans work cause I've watched them turn on with my own eyes
.
The thermostat is a brand new 180.
You might try to burp the system again. And did you install the thermostat with the little hole at the top? Very important.
I'm also considering creating some kind of shroud. I had to remove the black plastic one (not the undertray but the one that fits in the mouth of the car) and it won't go back in with the IC. Perhaps I could pickup a sheet of aluminum and creating a new one that will assist with airflow from the fans.
![wink](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The thermostat is a brand new 180.
You might try to burp the system again. And did you install the thermostat with the little hole at the top? Very important.
I'm also considering creating some kind of shroud. I had to remove the black plastic one (not the undertray but the one that fits in the mouth of the car) and it won't go back in with the IC. Perhaps I could pickup a sheet of aluminum and creating a new one that will assist with airflow from the fans.
OP, I just did an Mtuned reroute and the parallel fan mod and found clt readings to be about 10C lower on average. I've got a stock rad and a begi #2 intercooler (completely fills the "mouth" opening) with no shrouding or undertray.
At 8psi I'm seeing 0 increase in IAT and max 1C increase CLT under sustained boost. With fans coming on at 88C I'm seeing 95C operating temps and as low as 92C with the heater on.
Pre reroute and fan mod my clt was pegged at 102C operating with the heater on full blast but again I've got a more obstructive intercooler.
At 8psi I'm seeing 0 increase in IAT and max 1C increase CLT under sustained boost. With fans coming on at 88C I'm seeing 95C operating temps and as low as 92C with the heater on.
Pre reroute and fan mod my clt was pegged at 102C operating with the heater on full blast but again I've got a more obstructive intercooler.
#17
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I suppose I should've qualified my readings, taken at 25C ambient with 90% humidity. I've also got AC but you guys probably have that as well, being down south.
On a fwd turbo bp I had I was using a single probe gt fan, an atx (2.5x as thick and 10% longer) rad, and my intercooler only covered 30% of the openings in the front of the car (vs 100%). That car got too warm but only in track conditions, street was fine but with way more mouth / grill opening area.
On a fwd turbo bp I had I was using a single probe gt fan, an atx (2.5x as thick and 10% longer) rad, and my intercooler only covered 30% of the openings in the front of the car (vs 100%). That car got too warm but only in track conditions, street was fine but with way more mouth / grill opening area.
#18
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I have a minor issue with cooling too.
I just did the fmic and turbo together so im not sure which caused it.
My heating issue is that it gets quite hot (110) and then it seems the thermostat opens and it drops back to operating and holds steady there.
Thing is, brand new oem thermostat and water pump. no leaks, and the cooling system has been bled.
I just did the fmic and turbo together so im not sure which caused it.
My heating issue is that it gets quite hot (110) and then it seems the thermostat opens and it drops back to operating and holds steady there.
Thing is, brand new oem thermostat and water pump. no leaks, and the cooling system has been bled.
#20
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I suppose.
What would i ask for in a parts store, or at mazda?
I would like this to go away.... i was thinking about drilling some bypass holes in the side of it so it always has a little flow.
What would i ask for in a parts store, or at mazda?
I would like this to go away.... i was thinking about drilling some bypass holes in the side of it so it always has a little flow.