Car wont start! Help!
#43
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http://www.madracki.com/miata/images/wiring/94sys.pdf
On page 8 is the diagram I'm looking at. It looks to me like the blue/white wire that I found which is nearly broken (there is like on small copper strand holding it together) runs from the Powertrain Control module (engine) to the Powertrain Control module (transmission)
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No, I was joking. I thought triple88a was being an *** because I screwed up on the electrical stuff so I just kinda blew off what he said. Was he not joking? And no the car is a manual
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I want to know more about connecting a new power wire to the injectors. Would i just stick a new wire and run it to the relay following the original one? What about the other wire that's connected to the injector?
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Well, run a diagnostic on it before putting a new wire in(which seems silly and pointless).
Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?
Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?
Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
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Well, run a diagnostic on it before putting a new wire in(which seems silly and pointless).
Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?
Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
Maybe i missed it, but if you're not getting the required *signal to the injector(s) it's for a reason. Wires just don't stop working for not reason. Resistance check?
Do you have a fluke meter by chance?
The part I don't understand is that I drove the car after the tuck and it was fine. Also, the pump seemed to not be working well anymore. It still pumped fuel but when I removed the line under the hood, it was barely coming out. The fuel pump relay seems to have gone bad at the same time as well...
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then why are you worried about a wire that's only useful if you have an auto trans?
you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.
once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.
once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
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then why are you worried about a wire that's only useful if you have an auto trans?
you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.
once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
you need to figure out why your injectors don't have 12v on the white/red wires but your CAS and diagnostic connector have 12v, when they are connected to the same wire.
once you return 12v to your injectors, the car will run.
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they sure as hell better see power on RUN, but yes, they should be powered on ON, RUN, and cranking.
anytime you see power in the diagnostics port on B+, so shall the injectors. PLEASE finally test this.
anytime you see power in the diagnostics port on B+, so shall the injectors. PLEASE finally test this.