Broken Alternator Ear on Water Pump :(
#1
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,301
Total Cats: 696
From: Granbury, TX
Broken Alternator Ear on Water Pump :(
Spring cleaning for Red. Oil change. Friction discs. Pads. Grease the suspension. Re-oil the air filter. Blah, blah . . . .
Then I discovered that the water pump ear that secures the alternator is cracked. Like this post (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...3/#post1163397), but mine is still relatively in position. I get belt squeel for a few seconds after startup (during the initial battery recharge), but that's it.
Anyway, TB/WP kit is on order. But I'd love to understand the root cause here as the current TB/WP is only about 1.5 years old. The poster above had his break at least twice in rapid succession. I'd like to avoid that.
I've got Mazdacomp engine mounts, original diff mounts and original damper. Rev limiter at 7500 . . . although I go there often.
Anybody ever experience this? Any advice?
Then I discovered that the water pump ear that secures the alternator is cracked. Like this post (https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...3/#post1163397), but mine is still relatively in position. I get belt squeel for a few seconds after startup (during the initial battery recharge), but that's it.
Anyway, TB/WP kit is on order. But I'd love to understand the root cause here as the current TB/WP is only about 1.5 years old. The poster above had his break at least twice in rapid succession. I'd like to avoid that.
I've got Mazdacomp engine mounts, original diff mounts and original damper. Rev limiter at 7500 . . . although I go there often.
Anybody ever experience this? Any advice?
#6
I found my lower mount to be pretty oval shaped. This is why the alternator was able to angle in when I cranked the belt super tight to quiet it down. I didn't even notice the lower mount issue until after the second pump broke.
The fix that has succeeded was a new crank key, bolt, a new damper, and drilling the lower alternator mount out and converting to a bigger bolt and nut.
I am still using the Mazdacomp engine mounts and delrin diff mounts. I don't believe they were to blame.
The fix that has succeeded was a new crank key, bolt, a new damper, and drilling the lower alternator mount out and converting to a bigger bolt and nut.
I am still using the Mazdacomp engine mounts and delrin diff mounts. I don't believe they were to blame.
#8
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,301
Total Cats: 696
From: Granbury, TX
So, here we go again . . . .:
Upon inspecting the WP, there sure isn't much material there to support the alternator. This is a cheap, Chinese WP that comes in those engine rebuild DNJ kits. Lesson learned.
Everything else looks good. The lower alternator bolt is snug in its hole -- no significant play. Damper is in good shape. Crank keyway is perfect. Guess I'll just get the replacement parts and put it all back together.
This pales in comparison to the other problem I found . . . https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...5/#post1309794.
Upon inspecting the WP, there sure isn't much material there to support the alternator. This is a cheap, Chinese WP that comes in those engine rebuild DNJ kits. Lesson learned.
Everything else looks good. The lower alternator bolt is snug in its hole -- no significant play. Damper is in good shape. Crank keyway is perfect. Guess I'll just get the replacement parts and put it all back together.
This pales in comparison to the other problem I found . . . https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...5/#post1309794.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
xcoldricex
Miata parts for sale/trade
12
04-26-2016 11:44 AM
jaredfigdor
DIY Turbo Discussion
10
02-23-2016 01:54 PM