Breaking in built engine - Turbo fitted or not?
#1
Breaking in built engine - Turbo fitted or not?
Quick question guys. Assuming there will be bits of metal in the oil from first start to first oil change when breaking in my built engine, would it be wise to break in the engine with a standard manifold set up and the turbo removed?
I have FMII hardware and the thought of bits of metal (irrespective of how small) going through the turbo scares the pants off me!! or am I worrying for nothing?
Could a small inline filter be fitted between the oil feed on the block and the turbo?
Grateful for any advice......
Barry
I have FMII hardware and the thought of bits of metal (irrespective of how small) going through the turbo scares the pants off me!! or am I worrying for nothing?
Could a small inline filter be fitted between the oil feed on the block and the turbo?
Grateful for any advice......
Barry
#4
How I did it -
1) Put everything on it (turbo, etc). Fill with straight-grade oil (SAE30, used Rotella T1 from Walmart)
2) Pull relays/fuses and crank until you see oil pressure (10-30 seconds)
3) Put relays/fuses back in, start, idle until it's reasonably warm (a few minutes tops)
4) Change oil (put SAE30 again)
5) Break in as per Flyin Miata instructions
6) Change to conventional oil after like 20 miles (used Rotella T5 from Walmart)
7) Raise rev limiter to where it should be after like 200 miles
8) Rape it??? Change to synthetic anywhere after 500 miles (used Rotella T6 from Walmart)
edit: obviously every oil change is filter change as well.
1) Put everything on it (turbo, etc). Fill with straight-grade oil (SAE30, used Rotella T1 from Walmart)
2) Pull relays/fuses and crank until you see oil pressure (10-30 seconds)
3) Put relays/fuses back in, start, idle until it's reasonably warm (a few minutes tops)
4) Change oil (put SAE30 again)
5) Break in as per Flyin Miata instructions
6) Change to conventional oil after like 20 miles (used Rotella T5 from Walmart)
7) Raise rev limiter to where it should be after like 200 miles
8) Rape it??? Change to synthetic anywhere after 500 miles (used Rotella T6 from Walmart)
edit: obviously every oil change is filter change as well.
#5
How I did it -
1) Put everything on it (turbo, etc). Fill with straight-grade oil (SAE30, used Rotella T1 from Walmart)
2) Pull relays/fuses and crank until you see oil pressure (10-30 seconds)
3) Put relays/fuses back in, start, idle until it's reasonably warm (a few minutes tops)
4) Change oil (put SAE30 again)
5) Break in as per Flyin Miata instructions
6) Change to conventional oil after like 20 miles (used Rotella T5 from Walmart)
7) Raise rev limiter to where it should be after like 200 miles
8) Rape it??? Change to synthetic anywhere after 500 miles (used Rotella T6 from Walmart)
edit: obviously every oil change is filter change as well.
1) Put everything on it (turbo, etc). Fill with straight-grade oil (SAE30, used Rotella T1 from Walmart)
2) Pull relays/fuses and crank until you see oil pressure (10-30 seconds)
3) Put relays/fuses back in, start, idle until it's reasonably warm (a few minutes tops)
4) Change oil (put SAE30 again)
5) Break in as per Flyin Miata instructions
6) Change to conventional oil after like 20 miles (used Rotella T5 from Walmart)
7) Raise rev limiter to where it should be after like 200 miles
8) Rape it??? Change to synthetic anywhere after 500 miles (used Rotella T6 from Walmart)
edit: obviously every oil change is filter change as well.
I was more concerned with bits of metal getting into the turbo, but I guess it will be ok......
Barry
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