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Boundary Stage 2 Pump vs OEM High Flow VVT with Billet Gears
Ive been trying to find this answer and different posts keep telling me different things so Im really not sure on the correct answer. I planned on using some Boundary Billet Gears in my MSM/VVT OEM oil pump when I was going to put my engine back together. Long story short I didnt know not to use high heat when cleaning in my ultrasonic cleaner and fucked up the entire oil pump (no gears in it), so now I need a new oil pump. Im trying to decide to get a new high flow VVT/MSM pump and put the billet gears in it, or get the Boundary Stage 2 pump and sell the billet gears.
Here is where my main concern is, I want to know which one has more flow, I saw that the Stage 2 is machined wider by some amount, but Im not sure if they are talking about a VVT being machined or a normal pump to make it the same as a VVT. Im looking to whichever has better flow, Im leaning toward the Boundary having better flow but I also saw that Boundary Pumps had issues with their housings and the relief valve getting stuck open and destroying the engine. So Now that leans me toward the OEM Pump. Can anyone give me some insight on this?
The Boundary oil pump is machined deeper than a standard VVT pump. ~10mm gears vs 9.5 for the vvt vs 9.0 for a non-vvt. I found this out the hard way when I replaced my Boundary pump gears with billet gears for an OEM VVT pump and it wouldn't build oil pressure lol.
You'll get different answers from different folks. The general consensus at this point seems to be that the Boundary pumps have a higher rate of the pressure relief valve sticking open, so I have no problem running my current billet-geared OEM VVT pump.
Yea I'm thinking of aiming for the OEM, i just don't know if it'll hold up to the power I'm going to make, thinking in the future at 300 whp, so not sure if it's worth the risk to take the BE2 or risk of not enough from OEM.
The best setup is a new OEM VVT pump with matching boundary gears.
The gear thicknesses are 9.5mm for the non-VVT & the boundary stage 1 and the VVT gears are 10mm. The boundary pumps are based off of an inexpensive chinese casting sold by ITW. The aftermarket do not manufacture pumps for the VVT application. At least not when I checked last which was 6mo ago. This is why boundary has to machine the gear bore housing deeper for the VVT and stage 2.
The OEM casting is better and worth the extra cost. The pressure relief valve is more reliable, and the passages are deeper. The pressure relief ports have a larger area.
I just found out supermiata seems to use an oem housing then machines it wider, so just like BE but better, you think that is an option? Is it worth spending extra to make my own custom regulator setup to avoid the worry of it ever sticking? And BE ones seem can go up to 90 psi while the SM only gota to 67, will that be enough psi? I know it's based off setup, but I believe the msm has a oil related catch can or separator, then for a turbo and possibly oil cooler for harder track days
There seems to be a lot of misconception when it comes to shims and oil pressure on these pumps. I was in this camp too when I first built my engine.
The operating pressure of the oil pump isn't determined by the number of shims it has. This only affects the max pressure which is generally only seen when cold. I'm running an OEM VVT pump and BE gears with what I believe is one shim (my cold oil pressure never surpasses 68-70psi) and my general oil pressures on track with oil temp at 210-240*F are in the mid-40s. I saw similar pressures at the same temps with my OEM 1.8 motor and with the BE pump in my built motor.
Funny enough, BOTH of those oil pumps had their relief valves stuck closed. I'd see oil pressure spike up to 100psi if I revved either engine high enough when cold. Confirmed this also when I pulled the BE pump from my built motor. Couldn't move the relief valve at all no matter what I tried. I didn't run either motor long enough to observe any ill effects of excessive oil pressure when cold, but I wouldn't rev either motor out until the oil was up to temp anyways. So, that issue was kinda null I guess?
Ok so its just meant for when its cold, so with that being said my question is is 67 psi best or would I want more for it being cold. Also could you explain more about your oem VVT being stuck closed, thats making me think I should spend a little extra to just add my own regulator setup, since now budget is really flexible
The relief valve stuck closed on my 190,000 mile original NA8 engine. It was like that since I installed the oil pressure/temp gauge on my car, so I don’t know when it got stuck. My car also sat outside undriven for four years before I picked it up, so that might have been a contributing factor. I’d still grab an OEM VVT pump and drop a set of billet gears in it. No custom solution is needed.
The SuperMiata pump is most likely just a boundary setup and not an OEM pump casting. I would forego any rotor thicker than the VVT pump (10mm). The main issue is the possibility of depleting the pan in extended high rpm use. Anything over 55-60psi will be adequate. The OEM pump pressure is based on a 5-30 oil, a 40 or 50 weight will have a higher pressure across the operating range. My recommendation is to find a discount OEM Mazda source for a new pump (BP6D-14-100) and then the gears from boundary.
Could always call them. There is no reason to bore an OEM pump unless they are exceeding the 10mm width of the VVT gear rotors. Which I don't recommend. If your losing oil pressure because your oil temp is reaching such a high level, you would be much better served by installing an oil cooler. FWIW $439 for a bored OEM pump with boundary gears is a good price, maybe too good of a price.
Originally Posted by Dokii
Supermiata website claims it's an oem pumpbwith billet gears tho
06-14-2024, 06:30 PM
Boundary Stage 2 Pump vs OEM High Flow VVT with Billet Gears
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