Best Conventional Oil
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello All. We just finished my turbo build and my mechanic is old school and insists that I use conventional oil in my engine or he will void the one year warrantee he is giving me. Basic specs: built bottom end with forged internals and some basic head work with upgraded valve train. S3 turbo kit. Making 247 on 12 lbs. on a mustang dyno. Car driven in a sprited fashion frequently and often; in the mountains and autocross.
The 10-30 Valvoline is looking like crap after the dyno session and about 800 miles(post break in period). Is there any conventional oil that you would trust in your cars? Should I be using some kind of conventional race oil? Is there such a thing?
I would really like to use Mobil One 0-40 but he is just not having it.
Thanks in advance.
The 10-30 Valvoline is looking like crap after the dyno session and about 800 miles(post break in period). Is there any conventional oil that you would trust in your cars? Should I be using some kind of conventional race oil? Is there such a thing?
I would really like to use Mobil One 0-40 but he is just not having it.
Thanks in advance.
#3
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'd maybe suggest the white bottles of Rotella that they've got at all the Walmarts.
Shell Rotella T 15W40 Motor Oil, 1 Gal: Automotive : Walmart.com
Cheap, good and I believe it is non synthetic. I've used this when they were out of Rotella T blue bottle and I was in a jam. Worked great.
Shell Rotella T 15W40 Motor Oil, 1 Gal: Automotive : Walmart.com
Cheap, good and I believe it is non synthetic. I've used this when they were out of Rotella T blue bottle and I was in a jam. Worked great.
#4
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What do you guys think of Rotella Tripple T in 10w-30? I believe this is conventional?
Shell Rotella® Products | Shell Rotella
Shell Rotella® Products | Shell Rotella
#14
Elite Member
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,683
Total Cats: 805
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Degrading, or just getting dirty?
Big difference. Perhaps you have a garbage filter on it, or a garbage air intake system? Live on a dirt road, or in the desert?
No matter what oil it is, it just doesn't get dirty in a system in 800 miles. I just changed mine on my car the other day after 6000 miles (synthetic) and i could still see through it as it poured out.
And FWIW i use Valvoline in all my cars. 300k mile truck still gets the non synthetic Valvoline with a fram filter to this day.
Big difference. Perhaps you have a garbage filter on it, or a garbage air intake system? Live on a dirt road, or in the desert?
No matter what oil it is, it just doesn't get dirty in a system in 800 miles. I just changed mine on my car the other day after 6000 miles (synthetic) and i could still see through it as it poured out.
And FWIW i use Valvoline in all my cars. 300k mile truck still gets the non synthetic Valvoline with a fram filter to this day.
#16
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Let's ask a more fundamental question -- let's say that you use synthetic oil, and 400 miles down the road your engine blows up. How exactly is your mechanic going to verify that you were using conventional rather than synthetic oil?
I realize this would involve outright deception, but seriously, he's asking you to use a less protective oil.
I realize this would involve outright deception, but seriously, he's asking you to use a less protective oil.
#17
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If your oil is turning black very quickly after an oil change, you may have a broken piston ring that is allowing combustion byproducts to contaminate the oil.
I don't like the idea of using a conventional oil on a turbocharged engine. Mainly because of the turbocharger, not the engine. The oil will see MUCH higher temperatures in the turbocharger due to the exposure to exhaust heat. Synthetic oil handles this better (resists coking). If your turbo is the oil-cooled type (like mine), then the recommendation to use synthetic goes 2X.
Your mechanic sounds like a flake.
I don't like the idea of using a conventional oil on a turbocharged engine. Mainly because of the turbocharger, not the engine. The oil will see MUCH higher temperatures in the turbocharger due to the exposure to exhaust heat. Synthetic oil handles this better (resists coking). If your turbo is the oil-cooled type (like mine), then the recommendation to use synthetic goes 2X.
Your mechanic sounds like a flake.
Last edited by hornetball; 08-22-2012 at 04:14 PM.
#18
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If your oil is turning black very quickly after an oil change, you may have a broken piston ring that is allowing combustion byproducts to contaminate the oil.
I don't like the idea of using a conventional oil on a turbocharged engine. Mainly because of the turbocharger, not the engine. The oil will see MUCH higher temperatures in the turbocharger due to the exposure to exhaust heat. Synthetic oil handles this better (resists coaking). If your turbo is the oil-cooled type (like mine), then the recommendation to use synthetic goes 2X.
Your mechanic sounds like a flake.
I don't like the idea of using a conventional oil on a turbocharged engine. Mainly because of the turbocharger, not the engine. The oil will see MUCH higher temperatures in the turbocharger due to the exposure to exhaust heat. Synthetic oil handles this better (resists coaking). If your turbo is the oil-cooled type (like mine), then the recommendation to use synthetic goes 2X.
Your mechanic sounds like a flake.
However, typically, aren't you supposed to stay out of boost for X miles post-rebuild? Hence wouldn't this theoretically help a great deal with turbo temperatures? /Theoretical question for my own benefit/understanding, not debate-intended.
#19
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/supporter1.gif)
![](/mt2011/images_td/ranks/smod.png)
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
it still sounds like troll thread. or troll mechanic. or mechanic who believes in old school dogma over real world science.
break the motor in for a few thousand miles on whatever oil you want. at that point the warranty becomes meaningless if it hasn't failed on its own.
then switch to synthetic so you aren't a frequenet repeat customer.
break the motor in for a few thousand miles on whatever oil you want. at that point the warranty becomes meaningless if it hasn't failed on its own.
then switch to synthetic so you aren't a frequenet repeat customer.