Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

LOL, it's on a 2554? That turbo is not adequately sized for a stock 1.8, let alone a built one. Needs moar 2860

My car has a 2554 on it now, it's sad. Torquey, but sad. The disco potato sitting the the garage mocks me everytime i'm in there. soon...

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

So like... stock F2T with a boost controller? Got it.

Actually, i'm told it made more HP than FTLBS when it was on the dyno, which is surprising.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

But I said turn it up like a man, 23psi at 3k rpm, 16psi at redline.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Honestly, the 2554 is HIGHLY entertaining for a street car. I'm not changing it out unless we decide to keep it long term, but at that point i'd have to pretty much immediately budget a 6spd swap as well.

The 2554 is building 12-13psi before 3000rpms, and we don't even have VICS hooked up yet.

Don't get me wrong, this is pretty much the opposite of what i would have built if i were to have built an NA8. Doesn't make it any less fun, though.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Seriously, i don't know how much i can safely push the turbo. Turning it up has crossed my mind, but i'm not interested in turning it into nothing but a heat pump.

I was thinking 15-16psi on pump 93 might be all she has? It's not dropping at redline at all on 12psi.

I will say that the car runs at least as strong as FM's "Igor" in terms of butt dynos. Even on top end.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Nah, it's true.. i can't hate. I love my car with the 2554 and bp4w, fun as hell. Mad torque for slides and whatnot.

Of course, it being my only "fast' car, it needs moar boost.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

quickly looking at the compressor map it looks tapped out at 16 psi by redline, but there's plenty of area to run higher boost at lower rpms.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Got it. 16psi + hook up VICS = fulleh sikk hektik skidz?

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

my 2554 struggles to hold 13psi, however I'm at 7,200 ft elevation so that has something to do with it i'm sure.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yeah i'm at about.... 500'.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Car sounds like it would be a lot of fun. You're still working on that F2T swap aren't you?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, that's for the blue 93. That's going to be slow going for awhile, just miscellaneous parts gathering here and there. Getting antsy to start prepping the chassis, though. Thanks to JEFF, DAMMIT.

I gotta see what the MX6 is like before i finalize some plans. It's the test mule for motor/headwork stuff.

Tentative power goal for the 93 will be in the 500-600whp range. On the single cam head. Because **** it.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You can do 15psi on 2554 fine. It will probably make 215hp-220hp at the wheels, and torque will fall fast above 5.5k or so. It will be awesome to toy around in traffic with.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hey guise, i have a question.

If homebrew re-route and TSE blockoff, how does tarbo get water?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

mine gets it from the spacer

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Only need one port from spacer to turbo, turbo drains elsewhere?


Yes, i know this is ******* stupid when i could just look at the car, but i'm at work and this is bugging me.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Mine drains to the heater core line on the water pump inlet side. But it would be easy enough to go straight to the water pump inlet if you arent running a flipped inlet.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Supply can come from almost anywhere on the engine. For instance, you could take it from the spacer like Leafy suggested or you could tap the TSE block off.

The drain needs to find its way to the mixing manifold (i.e., the water pump inlet).

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

So... safe to say that the drain on the car now wouldn't need to be messed with? I don't know where it's going, if i must be honest. Haven't looked.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Shouldn't, but just make sure it's going to the water pump inlet so you have good flow.