ARP hear stud question
#6
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Finger tight.
There is a video somewhere with an ARP rep saying why exactly.
Basically don't want and side load on the stud. Just a staight pull. By only going finger tight in the block the stud still has fredom to move around allowing the nut and washer to determin the "straight pull".
Something like that.
There is a video somewhere with an ARP rep saying why exactly.
Basically don't want and side load on the stud. Just a staight pull. By only going finger tight in the block the stud still has fredom to move around allowing the nut and washer to determin the "straight pull".
Something like that.
#12
There's no way possible that torquing those studs to ARP's specs in the proper manner will cause your head to crack.
On the contrary, torquing ARPs to factory specs can and will probably make your head gasket leak.
If you're going to use factory torque specs, then use factory hardware.
On the contrary, torquing ARPs to factory specs can and will probably make your head gasket leak.
If you're going to use factory torque specs, then use factory hardware.
#18
-you ask a question that has been discussed and easily found
-you tell everyone to spoon feed you the info cause you're too special to adhere to the rules everyone else does
-you call people out
-you conclude the thread with calling everyone a bs'er
Congrats. I don't think you coulda been more of a douche if you actually tried.
#20
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I did 78 ft lbs. I thought I read from either Emilio or Andrew about not going over 85 or something like that. Don't quote me on that but it's what I recall. I figured that was close enough to 80. + The lube on thread and nut and washer I figured that was plenty.