Another oil catch can thread
#21
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#22
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Cspence, does that not happen on your car? Maybe it wouldn't be a problem on a car that dosen't see the track?
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#27
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I already have both the pcv port and breather port drilled out to 5/8" fittings. Which is = to -10an. Those are hooked up to a large catch can with a 2" breather. So that should be large enough for up top. I think I'm also going to run a hose from the nipple on the side of the block below the alt to my smaller catch can and let that vent to atmosphere. This should allow the crank case to breathe.
Thoughts?
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Thoughts?
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#28
I already have both the pcv port and breather port drilled out to 5/8" fittings. Which is = to -10an. Those are hooked up to a large catch can with a 2" breather. So that should be large enough for up top. I think I'm also going to run a hose from the nipple on the side of the block below the alt to my smaller catch can and let that vent to atmosphere. This should allow the crank case to breathe.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
#29
You didn't connect with what I said I guess. The vented air in the head enters the vc through the baffles at the center of the VC. It then travels through a series of drilled holes to the actual external ports. The drilled holes are only like MAYBE 1/8". No where near -10AN. If you modded the VC like they big boost honda boys with ports directly exposed to the inside of the head and small baffles to prevent excessive oil suction you would eliminate pretty much all of your issues.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the **** in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your **** again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other ****. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the **** in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your **** again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other ****. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything.
#30
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You didn't connect with what I said I guess. The vented air in the head enters the vc through the baffles at the center of the VC. It then travels through a series of drilled holes to the actual external ports. The drilled holes are only like MAYBE 1/8". No where near -10AN. If you modded the VC like they big boost honda boys with ports directly exposed to the inside of the head and small baffles to prevent excessive oil suction you would eliminate pretty much all of your issues.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the **** in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your **** again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other ****. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything.
I would plug the current holes, have 2 -10AN bungs welded on like in the pics. Run those to a catch can that is VTA. Then on the bottom of the catch can I would have an outlet with a hose that runs to the block vent. This way when you are out of boost the **** in the can would drain back into the sump. There are TONS of OEM turboed cars that do this, works fine and you never have to drain your **** again. Also, its best to have a properly baffled catch can and not fill it with any stuffing or other ****. You don't want any small particles from filler getting into your oil and possibly abrading anything.
I got you, guess I'll be taking my valve cover back off.
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#33
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Ok, new plan. Neo and I discussed via IM. What I'm going to do is drill a bunch of small holes into the baffle plates on the under side of the valve cover at the opposite ends of the breather ports. That should really allow the head the breathe and not allow excessive oil to escape.
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#35
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#36
Ok, new plan. Neo and I discussed via IM. What I'm going to do is drill a bunch of small holes into the baffle plates on the under side of the valve cover at the opposite ends of the breather ports. That should really allow the head the breathe and not allow excessive oil to escape.
Bob
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#39
I think the Return spot Cspense is using is much higher than the oil pan it is actually right beside the Oil filter in the block. As far as I can tell this return location was only available as cast in to very early 1.6l blocks and was later removed. I had it in my original 1990 block but not a 1993 and I have seen it in J-spec imported B6t’s but not on all us-spec 323 GTX’s . US spec GTX’s had a pipe cast into the pan that was just capped off.
I had a return tapped into the oil pan just under the alternator. It worked fine until taking it to a track that had a 120mph downhill with a braking zone into a second gear corner. This situation resulted in Oil all aver my engine compartment.
After discovering how much oil slosh there really is in the pan I am also considering installing an Accusump.
Bob
Last edited by bbundy; 05-06-2010 at 02:10 PM.
#40
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That's the same port my block has. I'm definitely going to open that up to relieve crank case pressure.
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