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Does anyone use it for a turbo setup yet? I am afraid that I won't fit properly over the radiator when it points towards the turbo.
I don't have a turbo, but I'm thinking about it for next year, so I've pondered it. I'm in a 1.6 and the radiator bolt is directly in the way of running the intake directly back to a turbo. I'm not sure if you could either route it 30d inboard then immediately back toward the turbo in a zig-zag. The other alternative, which is a giant 'depends' is if you swap out for a radiator with a different profile.
I'm in a 1.6 and the radiator bolt is directly in the way
That's why I am asking :-) I am using a thicker version of the OEM radiator, but the bolt is still there. Another aluminum radiator should do the trick for sure.
That's why I am asking :-) I am using a thicker version of the OEM radiator, but the bolt is still there. Another aluminum radiator should do the trick for sure.
You'd have to do some weird s-bend of intake tubing to make it work. I do think it can work, but it would be odd looking and probably require lots of trial and error. Good Luck!
Just sharing the pic of my setup. Got the intake printed in Nylon12 from Xometry, $82 shipped. I wrapped in DEI tape. IAT is in end of filter. I had to remove some structure from the hood to clear the 30d elbow where it attached to the 3d printed part. After reading about filters falling off, I also put a couple of pieces of cord into the filter end and tied over frame (that's the yellow cord visible here). So far very happy--my only observation is that I think that the IAT at the bottom of the filter means that it cools down pretty slowly on hot days for AutoX. When I'm driving, it tends to run 4d-5d over ambient. I haven't had it on the track yet.
Using AlecMoody's files on thingiverse as a base I have developed a 3d printable split mold to make this intake out of fiberglass or carbon fiber.
Each half of the split mold is in two parts allowing this to be printed on a stock ender 3. I clamped some straight edges to act as a linear guide while aligning them and quickly smeared some high temperature hot glue on each half before slamming them together.
Worked out pretty good but I added a little too much carbon and each end was too thick for the filter/silicon 45 to fit over so a bit of sanding was involved.
Also: tightening the clamp on the filter is much easier if you open the popups and go in from that side using one of those flexible screwdrivers designed for hoseclamps.
Nice. Have you tried hitting the final part with a layer of clearcoat?
Also, how much surface prep did you do on the 3d printed mold surface?
I bought some clear but I've been procrastinating in pulling it off again, I know it will look a lot better with a little work and removing that textured surface the peel-ply left.
The only surface prep I did was smearing some old car wax I had laying around and hoping for the best (I accidentally left the legit mold release wax at work). I did end up destroying the mold while removing it, pretty sure I was experiencing mechanical lock in at the ends due to the 0.2 layer height and my lazy prep. The middle section freed up easily with a putty knife and I wasn't intending on making more so I didn't mind.