This actually looks very similar to the 2.0L BP non-stroker I built a while back... I used 11.5:1 85.5 pistons in my build though.

 

I disassembled your motor and sonic checked it - it would have punched a hole in #3 in short order. Who built that engine?

 

 

I'll answer that for Urban. Dave at Builtmore in Los Angeles built it. His shop "specalized" in subaru's. I had to get mildly aggressive with him to get my stuff back from him. I started a thread on NASIOC trying to resolve it peacefully, and a guy from his home town posted up a bleak portrayal of his honesty, which I'll second.
/hijack

 

If anyone wants some 11.5:1 85.5mm supertechs pm me
//hijack

 

That looks fun as shiat!

 

1) Intercooler reduces airflow to radiator

2) Thick walls on turbo manifold conduct heat back into head - not sure how much effect overall this has on engine temps tho

 

I sent my 97 M3 cams to www.elgincams.com and he custom ground them for not much money (IIRC ~$350). 4-cylinder miata cams should be cheaper.

 

The same dip at 3250 for stock cams. It's at half of the power peak RPM. That it's at 3700 tells you the cams/IM are tuned for higher RPMs.

 

You are doing the exact opposite of what my critics are telling me to do with the steering wheel. What gives?

 

Hooking thumbs in?

 

What, pray tell?

 

The tell me one steering-input, "be smooth", and blah blah blah. I'd rather listen to you than just about anyone else.

 

Look how slow he's moving the wheel, no real huge jerks, smooth as she gets I'd say.

 

To stay in PTC, I had to remove the bump steer shims we ran in PTD. That makes the wheel jump around more over bumps. Necessary evil to get the ride height we want. If you look at the net steering input for most turns, minus bump steer kick back and corrections for slides, it is fairly slow. Transitions from left to right in esses but that's to be expected.

I don't focus, or even think about any particular steering method. I just try to give the car the input that it wants. If the car turns in well, only a little steering input is needed with a fast entry and a whisker of trail braking. That should translate to the needed steering angle for the mean arc you are describing through the turn. That is what they mean about one input. Some drivers will go in too slow and deep, then over brake and dial in a bunch of steering to get the car pointed towards the apex. The harder they go in and more abruptly they release the brakes, the more the car gets upset and requires a quick opposite lock correction right at turn in. This just kills speed in a Miata.

You have posted videos here before but I don't know where to look. Link to post so I can see what you're doing.

edit:
The car was not completely dialed. New spring rates, alignment, spoiler, pad compounds, splitter, wing, tires on their last legs. Car was close but not balanced exactly the way I like so I was perhaps making more corrections than usual.

 

So is the OGK NA chassis done for?

This car looks fantastic. Paving the way.

 

I know I need to "turn-in once" rather than chop-down on steering-angle. I'm on very old tires here too. Rip it apart please, have fun.

 

Hustler watching your video, I have a suggestion.

don't hook your thumb around the steering wheel. if you w2w, have a contact. it could break your thumb. It has happened to someone I know pretty well.

 

I'm aware after watching this video, I also grip the wheel way too hard. I started hooking my thumbs because I am so weak in my teres major/minor, infraspinitus fascia, and serratus posterior. I do not have the strength to turn the wheel for a session without hooking my thumbs. I'm spending an additional day in the gym every week solely working one these muscle groups for next month. I've spent the past six months really trying to get stronger.

Thanks for the advice.