oldeguy

Hello, I'm Bill and I purchased a totally disassembled 2000 1.8l engine with approx. 100K miles on it, just a bucket of parts. I'm new to all this Miata engine stuff. The owner said the engine had a knock, he showed me a video and it was knocking but not like a rod or piston. So, just started looking into the engine parts, crank look good, mic'ed std. size had it checked for cracks and polished. Visual on the block looks good. So, I'm thinking of having a build thread, cauz I going to help and guidance on this build. My question is 1. does this site allow this? 2. is this the proper place? 3. should I define my project goals? 4. any other suggestions Thanks, Bill

tomrev

Yeah, why not? I am also doing a BP4W with FM2 turbo, so will be interested in what you come up with. My engine has only 62K on it, so for now will be just cleaning it up, new TB, pump, etc. But I am starting to get the VICS system sorted and working. I'm loafing along, as my car has a nice NB6 in it now, with the turbo bits, so I'm prepping the engine now for next Winter, when the swap will happen.

oldeguy

so next steps, plan at this point is to ball hone the block because the bore look good, buy some ebay H beam rods, use the stock piston, looking for advice on rings...Oil pump...think I'm going to stick with stock...not going to be rev'ing the **** out of it...7500 max. Do think I'll do an aftermarket balancer. I need to check the head out soon. Got the oil pan clean and the valve cover...got the oil baffle from NAV, really seals up the bottom of the oil pan...

LeoNA

I assume you want to run E85 so that you can run a substantial amount of boost. If this is the case you should build the engine correctly with good components. Do not waste your time with a ball hone just because you think the cylinders look good. You need to use a dial bore gage to inspect the cylinders for taper and roundness. With 100kmi you should have it professionally bored and honed. I would recommend using a piston with 9:1-9.5:1 compression. Select pistons that are made from 4032 forgings with an offset wrist pin. The first thing should be to have the cylinder head checked for the flatness with a precision straight edge and then the guides/valves. If the head is warped more then .010"/.25mm I would look for another. The Manely and K1 h-beam rods are popular. I do not believe it is worth rebuilding the OE rods. The crank should be inspected for straightness, roundness of the journals and surface finish. If you decide to polish it by hand be careful not to barrel the journals and also check the rear main sealing surface for damage. Factory gaskets and ARP studs are also highly recommended. If you stud the main caps they need to be inspected and may need align honing. Good luck