1.6T - 1.8T Dyno Douchebaggery
#1
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Hustler's 10psi dyno run on a Dynojet in Austin. Built LC 1.8l with Begi Turbo Kit.
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My 10psi dyno run on a Dynojet in Arlington. Stock 1.6l with Greddy Turbo Kit.
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Overlaid.
Discuss.
#3
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I see a poorly tuned 1.9 with a large turbo out-spooling a 1.6 with a GReddy turbo.
You're trying to convince us that displacement doesn't matter, that you can spin a 1.6 harder to make up for it. The longer you make this argument, the less credibility you have (although it's not like you have any anyway).
You're trying to convince us that displacement doesn't matter, that you can spin a 1.6 harder to make up for it. The longer you make this argument, the less credibility you have (although it's not like you have any anyway).
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Honestly you don't have enough info there at all, i am making 180 at 9.5psi on a 1.8 2560r begi kit, and i know that when i take the stock cat off i will almost undoubtedly make 20-30hp more, its all about the flow. both in and out.
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![](http://boostedmiata.com/dynos/lars_vs_dan.jpg)
Stock '94 1.8L vs. a stock '93 1.6L with a GReddy kit making nearly identical numbers as you (same dyno, same day). 1.8L destroys your torque and has more top-end, no tuning. discuss amongst yourself. It took one of these cars to reach 110mph in 11sec, the other in 13. Wanna guess which one?
You also can't overlay two dynos when one plotted against engine speed and the other MPH.
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Agree that OP has left out many details, and that there are too many variables to consider this a fair comparison.
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It's a 1.8L turbo setup, with a similar peak HP, that's making tons more torque than a nearly identical GReddy setup as Ray's. I know which I'd rather have.
Ray also fails to remember Hustler's motor specs and purpose. It's like comparing a ITB dyno and saying, well the ITB has better throttle response.
Ray also fails to remember Hustler's motor specs and purpose. It's like comparing a ITB dyno and saying, well the ITB has better throttle response.
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rpm is not in on the x-axis...and that first dyno is 80whp and 90wtq lower than what I tuned it. The tune was so bad that it the AFR gauge pegged rich.
I can't use my real dyno because we did rpm with speed-density, so its not accurate on rpm.
I can't use my real dyno because we did rpm with speed-density, so its not accurate on rpm.
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Wow...this thread sucks worst than the last one you were in ray...
maybe because you started this one instead of just crapping all over someone elses.
For that I commend you, but just be glad this place isn't a democracy.
It makes absolutely no sense at all to me how you can argue that anyone is better off for ANY reason with what is an identical motor, just with less displacement. If the 1.6L and 1.8L motors were different animals (boosted) you might have a point. This is true in some cases of the Honda crowd, but not here. When boosted a 1.8L is just like a stinkin' 1.6L, just with MORE ******* DISPLACEMENT!
The reason this gets to me is that we discuss to the point of obsession where we can eek out 10-20whp here and there with bigger exhaust, COPS, cold air boxes etc, and you're arguing that a 30-40whp handicap is a good thing. That's before we even start talking about REAL spool differences. GTFO
Btw, I run a 1.6L, and am proud of it, I found a used kit for it, and the motor was cheap. If I could have swapped a 1.8L I would have. When talking base kits and stock bottom ends finances are a good reason to pick a 1.6L over a 1.8L. Power is not a good reason, and you'll always lose that argument.
Now when building a motor the choice is painfully simple.
maybe because you started this one instead of just crapping all over someone elses.
For that I commend you, but just be glad this place isn't a democracy.
It makes absolutely no sense at all to me how you can argue that anyone is better off for ANY reason with what is an identical motor, just with less displacement. If the 1.6L and 1.8L motors were different animals (boosted) you might have a point. This is true in some cases of the Honda crowd, but not here. When boosted a 1.8L is just like a stinkin' 1.6L, just with MORE ******* DISPLACEMENT!
The reason this gets to me is that we discuss to the point of obsession where we can eek out 10-20whp here and there with bigger exhaust, COPS, cold air boxes etc, and you're arguing that a 30-40whp handicap is a good thing. That's before we even start talking about REAL spool differences. GTFO
Btw, I run a 1.6L, and am proud of it, I found a used kit for it, and the motor was cheap. If I could have swapped a 1.8L I would have. When talking base kits and stock bottom ends finances are a good reason to pick a 1.6L over a 1.8L. Power is not a good reason, and you'll always lose that argument.
Now when building a motor the choice is painfully simple.
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I think the 1.6 B6 engine is the best engine ever put in a Miata. All I needed was better valve springs, a greddy kit, and a custom intake manifold with IRTBs and I made crazy power. You just can't be afraid to rev it up a lot higher than the 1.8 engine guys do. Properly tuned intake runners make all the difference.
I tuned it on a Dynojet so your results might vary.
My dyno graph:
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