hey guys let me start by saying I bought a 1990 Miata that was not running the guy rebuilt the head put on metal head gasket on it with ARP head studs it is a 1.6 with a manual transmission..
I followed all the no-start guides provided from the internet this form and endless questions to everybody I caught this thing running ..my problem was not something that was diagnosed on any of the forms however if it were not for the people like you guys I would have never thought about the solution that made my car work..to an extent if I followed certain things I would have found my problem out sooner..
it runs great but I do need help with one small problem or another if somebody knows a solution
I installed an safc on my 1.6 Miata and I have to do some research or find forms to get through all of the screens to properly adjust I got as far as choosing flap type and setting 08 08..it has a perfect idle revs fine everything works properly however,
I have no RPM signal at my cluster, with the safc choosing the RPM screen it shows my RPM perfectly fine when I rev and when it's idle so I do have a valid signal however not at my cluster.
my question is how do I receive a signal back to my cluster or do I just have to deal with it.
as far as anything that seems out of the blue,after the car ran for the first time and ever since I've heard a buzzing sound from underneath the throttle body a sensor that's plugged in..it never made the sound but after the car ran there is the buzzing sound when the car goes into the on position.if I disconnect it just sounds goes away obviously also my RPMs go from 8:50 to 7:50 if it's plugged in and then if I disconnect it..
I could give a s*** less about the sound however that sound and my RPM gauge I think have something to do with each other..
the only other thing I can provide as far as information my map sensor has 5 volts of power that goes into it but when connected it stays at .010 and does not raise when I increase the throttle while the engine is running..but that is something I was going to tackle whenI find more throw information on programming the safc so I don't do anyting improperly.
I hope I provided most information that is necessary the only other thing I can think about is I have no belts on and the header is unbolted just after the O2 sensor..the five volts I pulled from the windshield wiper positive the 4 wire plug at the motor

 

this is not a car that is on the road yet it's literally something that stays in the garage so the wires being out like this is simply testing and ensuring everything works properly before my engine bay and engine wire tuck
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When you wired the SAFC did you cut the tach signal wire or did you splice into the existing wire? You should have spliced into it so you would leave the current wire to the tach in place.

 

yes sir I did splice into it the only thing I cut was the air flow signal which one side went from signal to safc then safc to ECU..
one thing I did not mention in the post the safc was installed prior to me getting the vehicle running so what I am going to do when I get home is disconnect the safc and see if I get a RPM reading on my cluster..for s**** and giggles I bought a cas in the middle of my troubleshooting for starting issues which works perfectly fine as I bench tested it with an ohmmeter switched the two and still no tach signal both Cas are in proper working order I am 91% sure..
on another note, doing some reading on a few other forms I think people have used resistors somewhere to have received a tach signal in a similar situation however I could not find anything YET!
​​​​​​​thank you very much for responding

 

Step 1: Throw SAFC in the trash

 

​​​​​​​ Noted!