Need help, won't rev
#1
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Hello, all.
First off, I'm not new to turbos, wrenching, or tuning. I have an issue with my miata that has me scratching my head, though.
The car is a '90 that had been sitting for a number of years and basically fell in my lap. After draining the fuel, changing the oil, and replacing the dry-rotted tires, she ran great... for a couple of weeks. Then it started limiting itself to approx. 2200rpm once fully warmed up.
I checked the AFM and TPS signals. The TPS seemed fine and the AFM seems a little off through the door's range of travel. So I replace it with a used unit from ebay. The problem remained. So I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement TPS from rockauto. Getting that bugger adjusted was a PITA, but I was finally able to. And the problem remained. The carpet was damp from the top leaking, so I pulled it up and checked the ECU. There was no corrosion present on the connector (or the TPS and AFM connectors, either), but there was just a bit on the board itself, where the connector is soldered to it. So I cleaned that off with rubbing alcohol. The problem remains.
Where do I go from here? I don't want to keep throwing money at it, but I do want it to run properly before I megasquirt it.
It does give a code for the O2s. Does anyone know if that would set an artificial redline in the ECU?
Thanks in advance for any help.
TL: DR car won't rev past 2200rpm, replaced AFM and TPS. What next?
First off, I'm not new to turbos, wrenching, or tuning. I have an issue with my miata that has me scratching my head, though.
The car is a '90 that had been sitting for a number of years and basically fell in my lap. After draining the fuel, changing the oil, and replacing the dry-rotted tires, she ran great... for a couple of weeks. Then it started limiting itself to approx. 2200rpm once fully warmed up.
I checked the AFM and TPS signals. The TPS seemed fine and the AFM seems a little off through the door's range of travel. So I replace it with a used unit from ebay. The problem remained. So I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement TPS from rockauto. Getting that bugger adjusted was a PITA, but I was finally able to. And the problem remained. The carpet was damp from the top leaking, so I pulled it up and checked the ECU. There was no corrosion present on the connector (or the TPS and AFM connectors, either), but there was just a bit on the board itself, where the connector is soldered to it. So I cleaned that off with rubbing alcohol. The problem remains.
Where do I go from here? I don't want to keep throwing money at it, but I do want it to run properly before I megasquirt it.
It does give a code for the O2s. Does anyone know if that would set an artificial redline in the ECU?
Thanks in advance for any help.
TL: DR car won't rev past 2200rpm, replaced AFM and TPS. What next?
#3
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Fuel pressure? I'd pull the pump and look for varnish. I snagged a truck that had sat, did your basics and fuel filter, ran great for a few weeks. Then wouldn't rev. Yada yada, tank was corroded and clogged my new filter. Had to drop the tank and get it cleaned and sealed, been a great truck since.
#4
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Fuel pressure? I'd pull the pump and look for varnish. I snagged a truck that had sat, did your basics and fuel filter, ran great for a few weeks. Then wouldn't rev. Yada yada, tank was corroded and clogged my new filter. Had to drop the tank and get it cleaned and sealed, been a great truck since.
#5
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When i got my 90 miata it sat for 3 years and all i did was dump 5 gallons of fresh premium in and called it a day. It sounds like an electrical issue causing a limp mode to enable. And really a Megasquirt would be able to solve any ecu issue since you are the one setting all the limp mode safety features.
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