need help...p.s...im a noob.
#1
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok... well i have been searching the forum for about 2 weeks now for some information on what i want to do
i want to turbo my miata and purchasing a kit and installing it will be no problem for me
the problem is going to be tuning it
i want to start my tune with a piggy back unit
and i cant seem to find anything o help me out
i have a 91 miata...and if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated
i want to turbo my miata and purchasing a kit and installing it will be no problem for me
the problem is going to be tuning it
i want to start my tune with a piggy back unit
and i cant seem to find anything o help me out
i have a 91 miata...and if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated
![facepalm](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/facepalm.gif)
#6
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Read this first:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....9&postcount=15
Allow me to inform you a bit more.
"Tuning" is very simply giving the engine the proper amount of fuel for a given amount of air to achieve a desired air-to-fuel-ratio AND managing when the spark plugs ignite the mixture to achieve a desired combustion pressure/temperature measure by EGT (exhaust gas temperature).
Getting these parameters right is usually done by plugging in a laptop to the computer and using dedicated software and creating "maps" based on RPM/Boost/TPS(throttle position sensor). Getting the fuel right is usually pretty easy with the use of a wideband oxygen sensor plugged into the exhaust. Getting your timing right using an EGT gauge is a bit more advanced, and most people don't bother, rather they just steal somebody elses timing map who stole it from somebody else and use that. Then they tune by listening for knock using det-cans, a knock sensor, or by just listening. Fuel you absolutely want to tune yourself, timing you can typically get away by using somebody elses map that has a setup similar to yours.
If you install a piggyback computer and get yourself a tune, when you upgrade to a standalone, the tune leaves with it, and you start all over needing a new "tune" on the new computer.
With the price of Megasquirt+Wideband+injectors being under $1000, it makes absolutely no sense to go with a piggyback of any kind, not even an MS piggyback.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....9&postcount=15
Allow me to inform you a bit more.
"Tuning" is very simply giving the engine the proper amount of fuel for a given amount of air to achieve a desired air-to-fuel-ratio AND managing when the spark plugs ignite the mixture to achieve a desired combustion pressure/temperature measure by EGT (exhaust gas temperature).
Getting these parameters right is usually done by plugging in a laptop to the computer and using dedicated software and creating "maps" based on RPM/Boost/TPS(throttle position sensor). Getting the fuel right is usually pretty easy with the use of a wideband oxygen sensor plugged into the exhaust. Getting your timing right using an EGT gauge is a bit more advanced, and most people don't bother, rather they just steal somebody elses timing map who stole it from somebody else and use that. Then they tune by listening for knock using det-cans, a knock sensor, or by just listening. Fuel you absolutely want to tune yourself, timing you can typically get away by using somebody elses map that has a setup similar to yours.
If you install a piggyback computer and get yourself a tune, when you upgrade to a standalone, the tune leaves with it, and you start all over needing a new "tune" on the new computer.
With the price of Megasquirt+Wideband+injectors being under $1000, it makes absolutely no sense to go with a piggyback of any kind, not even an MS piggyback.
#9
![Default](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You'll also need a wideband oxygen sensor. The most popular one around here is the Innovate Motorsports LC-1. It's $200 but does not include a guage. You monitor it's parameters during tuning through the Megasquirt that your laptop is plugged into. You can buy a gauge for the LC1 but it's expensive.
The other popular one is from AEM. It includes a gauge and plugs into the Megasquirt just like the LC1.
Not having a wideband gauge mounted in the dash permanently that you can look at all the time is not a big deal. It's a tuning and troubleshooting tool, and after your tune is dialed in, it's virtually unnecessary as long as everything is running right.
You'll also need some fuel injectors. The most popular choice are used injectors from an RX7 or Toyota ($50-$150). Check out the FAQ in the DIY forum for a list of 100% compatible PnP injectors. 440's or 460's are good up to the 240-250whp range, and 550's good upwards of 300whp. Used sets pop up all the time, get them pofessionally cleaned/flowed from a vendor for about $60.
The other popular one is from AEM. It includes a gauge and plugs into the Megasquirt just like the LC1.
Not having a wideband gauge mounted in the dash permanently that you can look at all the time is not a big deal. It's a tuning and troubleshooting tool, and after your tune is dialed in, it's virtually unnecessary as long as everything is running right.
You'll also need some fuel injectors. The most popular choice are used injectors from an RX7 or Toyota ($50-$150). Check out the FAQ in the DIY forum for a list of 100% compatible PnP injectors. 440's or 460's are good up to the 240-250whp range, and 550's good upwards of 300whp. Used sets pop up all the time, get them pofessionally cleaned/flowed from a vendor for about $60.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post