Hey all, this weekend I took on the task of installing an mspnp2 and an innovate mtx-l wideband for my first steps towards turboing. I hooked up the MSPNP2 according to the instructions (hopefully this went fine I haven't attempted to start it yet, and haven't installed the IAT sensor yet).

Then proceeded to wire in the wideband, I first linked it to the radio however I got the E9? error code, the one where it isn't getting enough power. After some research on this, I tried calibrating while running off of a jump connection from my buddies car as my car has been sitting for a while, spent like 5 minutes with it just saying htr... no good.

Proceeded to relocate power cable to under the steering column, same thing no such luck. Then relocated to the wire that comes from the original narrowband sensor. Tried again still no such calibration.

So as a recap, on what has been done, I have removed the original o2 sensor as the guide said I can replace it with this. Spliced into the black wire with a 12v switched signal from the original plug. Spliced into the blue? I think for the wideband signal. Grounded it below the brake booster. It sticks on htr should I leave it trying to heat up for an extended period?

 

You need to rewire per innovate's instructions. You'll likely need to do the same for the MS. These components do not tolerate poor wiring strategies- and if it does work, inferior wiring can result in inaccurate/biased signals. Start over and do it right. Run ground and power to battery. Use 12v ACC and relay to power the 12v battery lead to WB.

 

grounded to the brake booster??? are you installing it inside the engine bay?

what exact wires are you using for power/ground?

I would be wiring to the ECU harness. i dont think the relay is necessary whatesoever and add in complication and failure points from novice electricians.

 

So from the original narrowband o2 sensor, I've tapped the blue wire for signal and the switched black wire for a power source. According to the flyinmiata diagram that seems to be what they are. And I read on another post somewhere that below the brake booster was a bunch of grounds, which I found and added the ground for the system there, then ran the wires into the cabin.

However I was also reading and it seems that I can use the options plug from the mspnp? And run off of pins 6 for power, 21 for the signal wire and 22 for the ground?

Thanks for all the help guys, I am not an electrician of any sort.

 

So, I did per innovates instructions and it worked wonderfully... the first time. I calibrated and plugged it in car started. However now I'm stumped now it's claiming it decided to throw an E9 error code, not enough voltage. Which it does this when I don't turn the car over right away, when I do turn the car over right away and start it it starts up but tells me afr is like 24 or something ridiculously lean. Now I know this can't be true or it wouldn't run at all. So any help folks?

 

Rma it.

 

Thanks for the advice I will most likely do this. I am still eligible for a refund as well. Do you think I should get a refund and order the AEM uego in its place? I'm assuming the wiring is similar.

 

I hate the uego personally.

 

Can you expand on this?


Should I just replace with another mtxl then or do you recommend something else?

 

Wouldn't you get another mtxl for no additional cost?

 

Yes I would however I was wondering if there was something that would be a better product, and that is why I ask from the standpoint of I am a noob and don't have experience with any other widebands.

 

mtx-l is a good product. i havent heard anything negative on them and my personal experience has been good.

 

I'd take advantage of your return window while you can and keep at it until you get a good one. My first LC1 was perfect. But I've got a SCG1 right now that seems to be stuck .5v on the analog out while everything else is perfect. Seems Innovate has an issue with product slipping past QC.

 

+1 for mtx-l since I use one too... No complaints,

 

What is this from? I recognize it but can't place it. Alright seems the consensus is mtx-l is the way to go. Guess I will put in for an exchange tonight and pull it out of my car... Sigh

 

It's from a movie called We're The Millers.

 

the resolution sucks.
The Uego only reads between 10-18.5:1 AFR through 0-4.25v
The MTXL reads between 7.35-22.4:1 AFR through 0-5v

the gauge sucks.
The Uego has a horrible refresh rate, and it's noticeably slow/averaged while driving.
The MTXL refreshes very fast and gives more instant updates.

the bezel of the uego gauge is also very shiny/bulky and looks out of place when installed.
the MTXl gauge sits more flush and looks clean installed.

you cant free-air calibrate.
The uego is set for life from the factory. if the sensor is dirty or starts to fail, there's no way to calibrate for it.
the MTXL can reference free-air to make sure it's always accurate.

cant cheaply replace the sensor.
if you ever need to replace the sensor on a uego, you must buy one with the "tuned" resistor built in to work correctly with the controller else the readings will never be accurate. (~$75)
the MTXL sensor is available for cheap from Advance auto parts, and is calibrated to your own unit. (~$35)

the digital output is not programmable.
if for some odd reason you want to reprogram the outputs, you cant with the uego.
the MTX-L has two independently programmable 0-5v outputs. You could simulate a narrowband to a stock ecu, but still output the 0-5v signal to something else.

the analog gauge "needle" is not programmable.
the MTXL allows you to set the scale and colors of your analog gauge.

 

that ^ should be stickied somewhere, if not already

 

Not sure if you're referring to an older model, but the Uego 4110 definitely has a serial output. I'm not sure about any digital output, but the analog output is able to be changed as well. I'm not sure how the MTX-L has a larger range if they both use the same sensor. I do agree about the bulkiness though. I might try to modify mine before it gets installed.

 

being able to select p0 p1 p2 p3 p4 on the back of the device is much different than being able to program whatever 0-5v and 7.35-20.4:1 AFR output you want.

P1 through P4 are pretty much useless.

I could make an MTX-L output 10-18.5:1 through 0-5v -- exactly like a Uego.

Actually, that's much better than the Uego, which only outputs 10-18.5:1 through 0-4.25v. So that's another thing i forgot, it's not a 0-5v signal. you're missing .75v worth of resolution.


I forgot about serial output on the UEGO, I was confusing it with having 2 programmable outputs (again something UEGO doesn't have).

with the MTX-L you could simulate a narrowband to a stock ecu, but still output the 0-5v signal to something else. (this is more handy for LC1/LC2 owners).