MS2 Tunerstudio Settings
#1
MS2 Tunerstudio Settings
I have built an MS2 kit to run a 93. Car is completely stock. Plan is to install the MS2, get familiar with TunerStudio and tuning then add boost. Unit was assembled following wiki instructions. Unit was loaded the latest firmware, version 3.4.2. Loaded diy's basemap for 1.6 which appears to be for firmware 3.3.1a. After loading got a bunch of errors! Not sure if I should be concerned about that or not? I also have a constant "Settings Configuration Error". I just want to go through and make sure all the Basic/Load Settings, Fuel Settings, and Ignition settings are correct before I proceed. Any help would be much appreciated!
#2
The first set of errors is normal, the second configuration error is not. Go to the basic/load settings and drop down all the way to the bottom "feature list showing i/o pins." Stuff on this page in black is in use, and you should see a conflict, two black features using the same pin. You'll need to change one of those features to a new i/o pin.
Post up your tune if you can.
Post up your tune if you can.
#3
Fixed the "Settings Configuration Error". Thank you for that info about the features list! I'm sure that will come in handy in the future. Not sure how to post an .msq? Pretty much just loaded DIY's base map and went into "Programmable on/off inputs" and made the change to LED16 for the fan control. How does one go about sharing an .msq?
#6
The only thing I see is you're running rather loose injector settings, the basemaps seem to have changed since I messed with them. Since you have a sequential injection mod installed and selected you might want to swap to sequential fuel, make an injection timing table or pick a fixed crank angle. Right now you're running untimed batch injection.
You also aren't incorporating AFR target table into the fueling equation under general engine settings, I'd look at changing both these things before you start tuning too much since they'll change how things run slightly.
You also aren't incorporating AFR target table into the fueling equation under general engine settings, I'd look at changing both these things before you start tuning too much since they'll change how things run slightly.
#7
Currently I have two injectors wired to LED14 and two to LED16 per the wiki instructions. Ive been viewing that as batch injection. Is that incorrect? If so i believe id be more comfortable with a fixed angle right now. Would the default value of "Fixed Injection Timing" 90 Degrees be suitable? Also should I change number of injectors to 2 seeing as two will fire at a time?
#8
If you only have two injector drivers you don't need the "additional drivers" option selected, I just assumed you had the extra drivers installed.
You can still use a fixed injection angle with batch injection, but you should leave the number of injectors on four. You could probably pick two if you wanted, but I assume the megasquirt might double the fueling if you do. Something you could tune around but not worth dealing with, keep the settings proper if you can.
I use somewhere around 370-395 degrees for injector timing around idle using the end of squirt option, but you might play with it and see if your idle efficiency improves with different numbers.
You can still use a fixed injection angle with batch injection, but you should leave the number of injectors on four. You could probably pick two if you wanted, but I assume the megasquirt might double the fueling if you do. Something you could tune around but not worth dealing with, keep the settings proper if you can.
I use somewhere around 370-395 degrees for injector timing around idle using the end of squirt option, but you might play with it and see if your idle efficiency improves with different numbers.
#9
Well plugged it into the car and no fuel pump, MAP is way off, and so is coolant temp. Checked settings and they are fine. Both figures read fine on the stim. Guess its back to the bench. When they say jump R39 they do mean to install a wire between the two holes the resistor would normally occupy, correct? I have double checked the assembly and all is exactly to the wiki build sheet.
#10
I'm not 100% on any of this, since I have a slightly different ms2 but the fuel pump relay might be wired up so that the AFM safety switch needs to be shorted out. Did you remove the stsign fuse? If not, check this thread here and see if anything makes sense.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-1990-a-75438/
You might need to select the map sensor, it's under tools -> calibrate map/baro in tunerstudio options. You'll need to do the same for the coolant sensor under calibrate thermistors, I don't think the miata uses the default GM curve the megasquirt is probably using. Here's another thread that might help.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...rmation-80398/
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-1990-a-75438/
You might need to select the map sensor, it's under tools -> calibrate map/baro in tunerstudio options. You'll need to do the same for the coolant sensor under calibrate thermistors, I don't think the miata uses the default GM curve the megasquirt is probably using. Here's another thread that might help.
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...rmation-80398/
#11
Going into Tools-Calibrate MAP/baro and changing those settings has gotten the MAP reading well. Still no luck with the coolant sensor though. I had the thermistor settings right from the get go. That was one of the only settings I was confident in! I have gone back and rewrote the RX7 CLT(S4 and S5) values to the squirt numerous times now and nothing. Maybe I have a wire wrong somewhere. The Fuel pump wiring link you posted was exactly what I needed. I had previously had the jumper for the fuel pump in socket 2 and 7 of the AFM connector. Moving them to 6 and 7 did the trick! Thank you!
#13
The tach on a 1.6 is driven off the ignitor, not off the ECU. If you still have the stock ignitor in there you shouldn't need to do anything to get a working tach.
If you want to have a megasquirt powered tach you can jump two wires at the ignitor, There's a black and white wire from the ECU to the ignitor, then there's a blue and yellow wire from the ignitor to the tach. What you do is bring the black/white into the megasquirt tach out, think it's ECU pin 2I. Splice the black/white and blue/yellow together and now you've got the megasquirt tach wired straight to the dash tach. Normal speed should be fine, not half speed.
Here's what I did when I ditched the stock ignition setup.
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...2/#post1184728
If you want to have a megasquirt powered tach you can jump two wires at the ignitor, There's a black and white wire from the ECU to the ignitor, then there's a blue and yellow wire from the ignitor to the tach. What you do is bring the black/white into the megasquirt tach out, think it's ECU pin 2I. Splice the black/white and blue/yellow together and now you've got the megasquirt tach wired straight to the dash tach. Normal speed should be fine, not half speed.
Here's what I did when I ditched the stock ignition setup.
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...2/#post1184728
#14
checked resistor that is correct. Still a whacky reading. Reads 180 degrees all the time. I discovered that I had an ignition wire going to the wrong pin on the tyco connector. Fixed that but still no start. Check plugs while cranking and no spark. Tried listening to injectors but hard to hear over the cranking of the motor. I currently have pin 31 (IAC2B) going to 1G and pin 36 (SPARK A) going to 1H.
#15
Hmmm, take a look here. It seems a firmware error might cause the MAT problem. Just to double check, you are using a GM IAT, not the IAT built into the stock AFM? If you unplug the IAT sensor, does tunerstudio report -40f, or at least some change?
Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? clt stuck at 180*, is my ms2 dead? (View topic)
There's a discrepancy between your megasquirt and mine for spark outputs. I use ECU 1G and 1H, for 1/4 and 2/3 coil signals, same as you, but since I use a microsquirt card my drivers are in a different place and selected differently in megatune. On the far left of the turnerstudio menu is the test mode menu, you should be able to test fire the injectors and coils there with the engine nice and quiet to see if things are working as they should.
But before all that, while you try cranking does megatune show anything at all on the tach? If there's no reading around 200-400rpm then there will be no spark and fuel. You'll need to chase down the trigger signals before much else.
Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? clt stuck at 180*, is my ms2 dead? (View topic)
There's a discrepancy between your megasquirt and mine for spark outputs. I use ECU 1G and 1H, for 1/4 and 2/3 coil signals, same as you, but since I use a microsquirt card my drivers are in a different place and selected differently in megatune. On the far left of the turnerstudio menu is the test mode menu, you should be able to test fire the injectors and coils there with the engine nice and quiet to see if things are working as they should.
But before all that, while you try cranking does megatune show anything at all on the tach? If there's no reading around 200-400rpm then there will be no spark and fuel. You'll need to chase down the trigger signals before much else.
#16
Well I now have an RPM reading in tunerstudio. Turns out I need the shielded grey wire to go to pin 2f not 2e as stated in the wiki instructions. However still no spark. I am using the GM IAT. Settings in tuner studio are correct. The IAT seems to work. It always displays air temp at a reasonable value. It does not change when i unplug the IAT sensor though. Hope I didn't fry the daughter card!
#17
Have you tried triggering the coils or injectors in test mode to check to see if they are wired up and responding properly?
Megasquirt MS2/Extra Output Testing
I confused myself, I meant to ask you to unplug the CLT sensor to see if tunerstudio changes to -40. For some reason I thought you were having MAT troubles...
Megasquirt MS2/Extra Output Testing
I confused myself, I meant to ask you to unplug the CLT sensor to see if tunerstudio changes to -40. For some reason I thought you were having MAT troubles...
#18
So injectors all fire in test mode. I can get spark on coil B but not coil A. Doesn't matter if I set Spark output pin to D14 or JS10. Maybe I need to run a different pin to 1H. CLT reading in Tunerstudio does not change when unplugging CLT sensor on motor. I unplugged both the sensor in the front and the one off the back of the head.
#19
I think your CLT sensor might be wired up wrong as well. Pin 21 to 2Q?
This is the guide you followed, right?
Megasquirt 2 Assembly - Miata Turbo FAQ
This is the guide you followed, right?
Megasquirt 2 Assembly - Miata Turbo FAQ
#20
That is the guide i followed. I thought I had it to 2Q apparently not. I have it ran to an empty spot! I believe I was looking at the picture wrong. I may have everything upside down! I built the harness according to the bottom most diagram in the harness assembly section. It appeared as the female part of the plug was orientated as if you are looking at the back side of the plug with flat side down. Lol face palm!