How do my tables look? and some other ametuer tuner probs
#23
All of your guys recent comments were taken in and i re-tuned all of the tables accordingly.
Something came to my concern today, as i was saying, it seems like every time i tune in car and get a steady idle going it lasts about 20 minutes and changes completely
Just out of curiosity i began to do more research on MAP sensor configurations, and why my pressure varies so much than normal ambient pressure. yada yada
always had the issue of my barometer reading lower than it should.
My point is that i have two map sensors im guessing previous owner rigged up one on x7 for constant barometric correction rather than a sample at start and at interval.
My barometric correction settings were odd, compared to what the actual manual says to set them at.
The minimum bar cor. was set at like 22map kpa
and the maximum was set at 34 map kpa
I hit F1 and the help/tutorial thing says that normally 80mkpa- 100mapkpa is usually "fine"
I changed them and the idle dropped drastically lean
should i use the recommended settings or were the previous values right?
Something came to my concern today, as i was saying, it seems like every time i tune in car and get a steady idle going it lasts about 20 minutes and changes completely
Just out of curiosity i began to do more research on MAP sensor configurations, and why my pressure varies so much than normal ambient pressure. yada yada
always had the issue of my barometer reading lower than it should.
My point is that i have two map sensors im guessing previous owner rigged up one on x7 for constant barometric correction rather than a sample at start and at interval.
My barometric correction settings were odd, compared to what the actual manual says to set them at.
The minimum bar cor. was set at like 22map kpa
and the maximum was set at 34 map kpa
I hit F1 and the help/tutorial thing says that normally 80mkpa- 100mapkpa is usually "fine"
I changed them and the idle dropped drastically lean
should i use the recommended settings or were the previous values right?
#25
Also i applied the changes as i stated. i changed the minimum map to 80 and max to 100.
The car would barley run!
it was maxed out to 19:1 afr running dangerously lean.
should i try to re-do everything much more rich and turn barro correct off? or keep it from 80-100?
maybe this is why i ave had so much trouble. also in my area we are at pretty normal readings on ambient pressure.
#26
I imagine when you upped the bar cor by that much, you're adding a ton of air. You should either set it back to where it was when you tuned your VE table, or re-tune your VE table ASAP. You do NOT want to be running at 19 afr. I'm no tuning expert, but you don't have to be to know that.
Figure out what the bar cor should *actually* be, then tune your VE tables with it set to that. Whether that's 80-100, or what you had it originally, or off completely.
Figure out what the bar cor should *actually* be, then tune your VE tables with it set to that. Whether that's 80-100, or what you had it originally, or off completely.
#27
I imagine when you upped the bar cor by that much, you're adding a ton of air. You should either set it back to where it was when you tuned your VE table, or re-tune your VE table ASAP. You do NOT want to be running at 19 afr. I'm no tuning expert, but you don't have to be to know that.
Figure out what the bar cor should *actually* be, then tune your VE tables with it set to that. Whether that's 80-100, or what you had it originally, or off completely.
Figure out what the bar cor should *actually* be, then tune your VE tables with it set to that. Whether that's 80-100, or what you had it originally, or off completely.
also doesn't that mean its only "correcting" the barometer above 80kpa
maybe this is why im still running kind of high at idle advance on the spark table? when another guy suggested like 12-14 degrees im at like 16-18
#29
So im kind of confused
is it correcting the map reading when my manifold pressure is at and above 80kpa map?
or is it correcting the barometer when the ambient pressure is in the range of 80-100
so basically i turned barro correct "on"
because if it was only correcting 20-30kpa it was if i was on a really high mountain or somthing
is it correcting the map reading when my manifold pressure is at and above 80kpa map?
or is it correcting the barometer when the ambient pressure is in the range of 80-100
so basically i turned barro correct "on"
because if it was only correcting 20-30kpa it was if i was on a really high mountain or somthing
#30
Think of it as.. it's correcting everything.
All fueling.
At sealevel an internal combustion engine makes more power then it well on a mountain. Especially naturally aspirated one's.
Edit:
You don't really need barometric correction unless you travel. Otherwise you'll be tuned fur your local areas barometric pressure.
All fueling.
At sealevel an internal combustion engine makes more power then it well on a mountain. Especially naturally aspirated one's.
Edit:
You don't really need barometric correction unless you travel. Otherwise you'll be tuned fur your local areas barometric pressure.
#31
Gentlemen...behold
So i decided to do some more research on fixing the idle control settings for a closed loop idle.
I switched back over to closed loop and found that it quit sporadically changing my idle. also i noticed that i had my cranking DC way low as compared to instructions here. be sure to throw this link at a noob trying to get his idle fixed it really helped me setup my closed loop idle properly.
JACKS DIY MSPNP
And i might add instead of idling at 14.0-14.7 it wants stay steady at 13.3afr
i know the spark isnt exactly as requested but this worked the best. when i set the first three axis on spark the same value it took a lot of time to settle so i did like i said and had the valley
Also added an rpm "axis" (1500rpm) to my AFR table! i may have screwed up the "cruising" AFRs here can anybody figure that?
But this is a steady idle. And for the love of god it wont stay settled at anything but 13.3 AFR. it will literally set there. without twitching.
#32
How is this car not pissing fuel out the tailpipe at idle (or danger lean at WOT) with only a ~10pt. spread between low rpm/kpa and WOT?
Also, read these. Thrice. It helped me tremendously.
Tuning Idle Valve - Ms2 - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
How Do I Tune My Idle With A Standalone? - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
Also, read these. Thrice. It helped me tremendously.
Tuning Idle Valve - Ms2 - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
How Do I Tune My Idle With A Standalone? - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
#34
that ve table is screwed up.
i changed the barro correct to the recommended ranges and it made that VE table after a drive.
that was not right i knew it wasnt but the idle was good.
runnning rich as hell. changed ve table back to base tune and...
the miata idles like ****, and i have the updated spark and AFR table
ifuckinghatethiscar wtf
i changed the barro correct to the recommended ranges and it made that VE table after a drive.
that was not right i knew it wasnt but the idle was good.
runnning rich as hell. changed ve table back to base tune and...
the miata idles like ****, and i have the updated spark and AFR table
ifuckinghatethiscar wtf
#35
How is this car not pissing fuel out the tailpipe at idle (or danger lean at WOT) with only a ~10pt. spread between low rpm/kpa and WOT?
Also, read these. Thrice. It helped me tremendously.
Tuning Idle Valve - Ms2 - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
How Do I Tune My Idle With A Standalone? - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
Also, read these. Thrice. It helped me tremendously.
Tuning Idle Valve - Ms2 - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
How Do I Tune My Idle With A Standalone? - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum
I have none of those options i have a MS PNP gen 1
my version of TS looks nothing like yours
#38
that ve table is screwed up.
i changed the barro correct to the recommended ranges and it made that VE table after a drive.
that was not right i knew it wasnt but the idle was good.
runnning rich as hell. changed ve table back to base tune and...
the miata idles like ****, and i have the updated spark and AFR table
ifuckinghatethiscar wtf
i changed the barro correct to the recommended ranges and it made that VE table after a drive.
that was not right i knew it wasnt but the idle was good.
runnning rich as hell. changed ve table back to base tune and...
the miata idles like ****, and i have the updated spark and AFR table
ifuckinghatethiscar wtf
#39
FWIW, my car idles most smoothly in the 13's. That's actually where mine is set.
I'm running an MS1. What injectors are you using again?
I would open a "new project" and download an unmolested base tune and start over. Some incorrect switch was flipped somewhere and it almost isn't worth trying to find.
I'm running an MS1. What injectors are you using again?
I would open a "new project" and download an unmolested base tune and start over. Some incorrect switch was flipped somewhere and it almost isn't worth trying to find.
#40
FWIW, my car idles most smoothly in the 13's. That's actually where mine is set.
I'm running an MS1. What injectors are you using again?
I would open a "new project" and download an unmolested base tune and start over. Some incorrect switch was flipped somewhere and it almost isn't worth trying to find.
I'm running an MS1. What injectors are you using again?
I would open a "new project" and download an unmolested base tune and start over. Some incorrect switch was flipped somewhere and it almost isn't worth trying to find.
What idle air control valve do i have if i have a head like that(99-2000)
also maybe i should replace the map sensors and tps sensors.
I will try and just reload a new base map
Can anybody point me to the right direction of the 9495 base map
i found one on ms pnp .com but when i click on it i just get a bigass page of code