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In my thread in the Megasquirt crew, my car still won't fire. Is it the Fuel Injectors?!? Honestly, not likely, but looking at them these things are a mess! One is really dinged up, and another has some damage at the head too. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe this is a wild goose chase but I'm leaning towards replacing these things; like flow for like flow rate, etc. Yes I know it can affect the tune, we might have to make adjustments but as it stands the car hasn't run for a month so I'd just be happy to see it actually RUN again!
81187 on the heads, and all kinds of various numbers on the body. I found one old vintage thread that had "like" FI's and the guys thought they were Injector Dynamics units. I have a flow test sheet (paperwork that came with the car) but says these things were running 895-ish cc's at 43.5 psi. So I would guess these are 1000's and cycled down a bit? Hey, y'all are the experts so you tell me!
The other oddity is, NO power, heck no battery in the car at all, and when I try to remove any of the FI's, disconnect the Radium Fuel Rail or whatever, fuel just keeps POURING out. Like, it doesn't stop. I thought it would trickle for a bit and then stop but it just kept going, and going and going... I considered getting a drip pan of some kind and just letting it keep going as maybe it would stop at some point, but my apartment complex is already not thrilled with the dead car sitting/me banging and clanging/etc.
And yes, the rubber grommets were in, spacers in the right place; from the outside all "looks" well but how the heck does an FI head get beat up like this?!?
Someone tried to tighten the fuel rail with the injectors sitting on the lip of the head, it’s semi-common. Ditch them and purchase some ID1050Xs.
open the filler cap when removing injectors. It equalizes the pressure in the tank and keeps it from spewing out with injectors removed.
You are the man with the answers; hey, ya ever been to Columbus, Ohio before; it's a great place really, you can tech a dead Turbo Miata and go to the best Zoo in the country all in the same day!
The tightening down makes perfect sense, that didn't even occur to me. And open the gas cap, DOH!
So which ID1050X's for the Radium fuel rail and a 1.8/1.9 NB engine? These buggers? If you've got a good place to secure them let me know.
You're aware of the overall "saga" of my car, after trying just about everything it still won't fire; do you think the fuel injectors could be "the issue?" A contributor? I mean, they're beat up as it stands so I think they should be replaced but I'm not convinced these get installed and all of the sudden The Beast will come to life again. Did some crap get through the lines and mess up the injectors? I mean, it's an NA, it's no Spring Chicken anymore!
I feel like I should install a good inline fuel filter before the regulator, but you guys tell me...
I recognize the damage, but I’m not familiar with yours car’s issue, unless I’ve posted in you’re threads before (I see a lot of user names)
google “Miata id1050x”, and a lot of vendors with Miata specific adapters show up. It’s a specific kit with spacers and o-rings to work with the BP head and stock or aftermarket rails.
last I read you were suspecting your cam sensor/pigtail. These injectors aren’t to be trusted, but I’m not sure it would cause a no-start condition, imo.
The Pigtail was replaced, nope. The Squirt came back from it's visit home to Georgia with a perfect bill of health, I added a completely new "I can see it going from the ECU directly to the vacuum black thru a big hole in the firewall" vacuum line so I can confirm there were no kinks/twists/etc. NOPE! I have fire, the cam belt is moving, the engine is turning/cranking/pistons moving, fuel pressure 43.5 on the reg. The battery is on a tender and is new, there is fuel in the system, I am at a loss...
You are the man with the answers; hey, ya ever been to Columbus, Ohio before; it's a great place really, you can tech a dead Turbo Miata and go to the best Zoo in the country all in the same day!