What is Greddy E-Manage?
#8
Boost Pope
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Maximum Boost is without question *the* definitive reference to have on the matters of turbo sizing, intercooling, and so on.
However neither Corky nor any other author that I've come across has written a thorough guide to modern engine management via piggyback or full-replacement ECUs. For better or worse, you're going to have to learn that side of the project from us, from the various vendors' websites, and through brute force experimentation.
Seriously though. Tell us a bit about your car, your plans, your level of electronic / computer / mechanical ability (be realistic) and the emissions testing requirements of the city / state in which your car is registered.
Also, don't get too discouraged about all the wiseass remarks you're going to encounter here. We haze all the newbies.
However neither Corky nor any other author that I've come across has written a thorough guide to modern engine management via piggyback or full-replacement ECUs. For better or worse, you're going to have to learn that side of the project from us, from the various vendors' websites, and through brute force experimentation.
Seriously though. Tell us a bit about your car, your plans, your level of electronic / computer / mechanical ability (be realistic) and the emissions testing requirements of the city / state in which your car is registered.
Also, don't get too discouraged about all the wiseass remarks you're going to encounter here. We haze all the newbies.
#9
well, ive got a 92 black and tan 1.6 with a jr cai and a 2.5 in catback with a good y split right after the cat which leads to a duel exhaust. between the y and the tips ive got a 2.5in custom made spiral wound muffler from a corvette guy. it sounds great. im working with (i believe) the screen name is adammx5 for my turbo setup. Soon to be Greddy TD04H-15G, vortech fuel pressure control, aftermarket fuel pump, and some other assorted goodies. Ive rebuilt a northstar, and an auto transmission. i have not done much with cars in the past 5 years sense im in school, but im getting back into it now.
#11
Boost Pope
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Eeeeew. Never admit you have KYB AGX's here. Also, after you upgrade to Bilsteins or Illuminas, think about removing that rear sway bar.
Seriously- the Greddy kit is actually a very good place to start. And I'd wager that your 2.5" catback exhaust will be more than adequate assuming the muffler is any good. Since you've already got that, the first piece I'd add is a good quality downpipe- this is the pipe that goes from the turbine exhaust to the cat.. The piece that Greddy gives you is tiny and restrictive. The one to have is made by Bell Engineering. It's P/N 68020 for stainless, 68020 for regular steel: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages..._turbosys.html
Buy this piece first, it's a thousand times easier to install at the same time as the turbo, rather than after.
When you get the Greddy kit, take all the bolts and washers to your local hardware store and buy Class 10.9 equivalents for them. The hardware Greddy gives you is garbage. (do not buy stainless, we specifically want Class 10.9, which is roughly the metric equivalent of SAE Grade 8) Also, buy a set of these washers for the union between the turbo and the manifold. Trust us.
Search around for "manifold cuts". Do them.
Assemble the turbo onto the manifold before you attach the manifold to the head. Use copper or nickel anti-seize compound on every threaded fastener.
Forget about the additional fuel pump. The stocker will be fine for now. When you upgrade to better engine management we'll be installing larger injectors, and the stock fuel pump will still be fine then.
Seriously- the Greddy kit is actually a very good place to start. And I'd wager that your 2.5" catback exhaust will be more than adequate assuming the muffler is any good. Since you've already got that, the first piece I'd add is a good quality downpipe- this is the pipe that goes from the turbine exhaust to the cat.. The piece that Greddy gives you is tiny and restrictive. The one to have is made by Bell Engineering. It's P/N 68020 for stainless, 68020 for regular steel: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages..._turbosys.html
Buy this piece first, it's a thousand times easier to install at the same time as the turbo, rather than after.
When you get the Greddy kit, take all the bolts and washers to your local hardware store and buy Class 10.9 equivalents for them. The hardware Greddy gives you is garbage. (do not buy stainless, we specifically want Class 10.9, which is roughly the metric equivalent of SAE Grade 8) Also, buy a set of these washers for the union between the turbo and the manifold. Trust us.
Search around for "manifold cuts". Do them.
Assemble the turbo onto the manifold before you attach the manifold to the head. Use copper or nickel anti-seize compound on every threaded fastener.
Forget about the additional fuel pump. The stocker will be fine for now. When you upgrade to better engine management we'll be installing larger injectors, and the stock fuel pump will still be fine then.
#13
Boost Pope
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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Grade 5, Grade 8, etc., are SAE classifications. As such, they are generally applied only to imperial-sized fasteners. So a 3/8"-16 TPI bolt might commonly be found in a Grade 8 spec.
Class 8.8, Class 10.9, etc., are ISO classifications. These two in particular are similar to SAE grades 5 and 8 respectively, however these Class specifications are generally applied only to mertic-sized fasteners. So an M10x1.5 bolt might commonly be found in Class 10.9, and will have comparable specifications for hardness, torque, and so on to the aforementioned 3/8-16 Grade 8 bolt.
Since the Greddy kit is based on a Japanese-made turbo and manifold, it uses metric threads. Thus, they won't be Grade anything, because those specs don't apply to metric bolts.
And- what kind of power changes can i expect with the upgrades dp? at 6 psi, im expecting around 145hp.
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