The once and 4 all JP8 topic!
08-19-2007 | 06:51 AM
#1
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From: The Netherlands
The once and 4 all JP8 topic!
Well I'm getting very confused. Should I or should I not use the 12V setting of the JP8 on my EMU. I see very different settings. Sometimes they warn that the 5V setting would fry the coils. Fot example:
But another member told me this:
These are the settings of another EMU user on a '99 Miata:
Good advice form Joe Perres:
And so on...
So what is the best jumper 8 option for a MK2 1.8?
your miata is a 99 right? set jumper 8 to 2-3, 12V system. 99 miata's run on a 12V system. if you use the 5V, youll fry the coilpacks. i was lucky to buy the EMU used, coming from a honda guy, he used the 12V system, and i didnt bother to change my jumper on that, but the car runs perfectly (besides the fans not turning on) read up on that, theres somewhere on yahoo groups about wiring up op-amps to make everything better.
There was a wonderful thread about this a while back, but unfortunately all that was lost in the Great Accidental Purging of Two Weeks Ago.
The practical upshot was that I verified with an oscilloscope that the ignition trigger level on the 1.6 engine was in fact 5 volts, and have run my EMU at that setting for roughly a year with no problems. Someone else interjected that perhaps the 1.8 engine used a different signalling level owing to its different ignitor design, however nobody ever volunteered the use of their NB to me so that we could scope out the ignition on one of those. At the end of the whole thing, we all agreed that we had absolutely no idea what was going on, and so instead we got drunk.
The practical upshot was that I verified with an oscilloscope that the ignition trigger level on the 1.6 engine was in fact 5 volts, and have run my EMU at that setting for roughly a year with no problems. Someone else interjected that perhaps the 1.8 engine used a different signalling level owing to its different ignitor design, however nobody ever volunteered the use of their NB to me so that we could scope out the ignition on one of those. At the end of the whole thing, we all agreed that we had absolutely no idea what was going on, and so instead we got drunk.
This is Emilio's Jumper settings...
J1 O
J2 O
J3 O
J4 O
J5 O
J6 O
J7 1-2
J8 1-2 (=5V)
J9 1-2
J10 O
J11 O
J12 O
J13 O
J14 1-2
J15 1-2
J16 O
J17 O
J18 O
J19 O
J20 O
J1 O
J2 O
J3 O
J4 O
J5 O
J6 O
J7 1-2
J8 1-2 (=5V)
J9 1-2
J10 O
J11 O
J12 O
J13 O
J14 1-2
J15 1-2
J16 O
J17 O
J18 O
J19 O
J20 O
JP1 through JP4 = open (no jumper)
JP7 = 1-2
JP8 = 2-3 (there is some confusion here. On the 1.6 it is 1-2, but some 1.8 owners have reported damaging their coils on this setting.)
JP9 = 1-2
JP11 through JP14 = open (no jumper)
JP15 = 1-2
JP18 = open (no jumper)
JP19 & JP20 = 1-2
The other jumpers do not matter for a Miata engine.
JP7 = 1-2
JP8 = 2-3 (there is some confusion here. On the 1.6 it is 1-2, but some 1.8 owners have reported damaging their coils on this setting.)
JP9 = 1-2
JP11 through JP14 = open (no jumper)
JP15 = 1-2
JP18 = open (no jumper)
JP19 & JP20 = 1-2
The other jumpers do not matter for a Miata engine.
So what is the best jumper 8 option for a MK2 1.8?
Last edited by MX5Kuro; 08-19-2007 at 04:45 PM.
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08-21-2007 | 01:07 AM
#2
i was confused too, when i first installed the EMU. i thought that it was originally 5V, when i did install it cause i thought i changed the jumper setting until i opened it a couple of nights to go to find out i didnt change it. The setting was under 2-3 for jumper 8, and my car drove and ran fine. i would rather not find out what would happen if i changed it to 5V.
my car is a 99 M2 miata..
another person in a yahoo group for the EMU found lots of problems with our cars, particular to the sensors. IM STILL HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO MAKE MY GOD DAMN FANS WORK!
my jumper settings on the fan are also as follows
JP13 OP
JP14 OP
someone had a detailed explanation about why our fans wouldnt turn on either if we had JP13 set to 1-2. i followed this, but i still havent been able to turn on the fans. Someone also said to use the HN_WT-2 water sensor to make the fans work, but ive tried it, and to no avail.
my car is a 99 M2 miata..
another person in a yahoo group for the EMU found lots of problems with our cars, particular to the sensors. IM STILL HAVING PROBLEMS TRYING TO MAKE MY GOD DAMN FANS WORK!
my jumper settings on the fan are also as follows
JP13 OP
JP14 OP
someone had a detailed explanation about why our fans wouldnt turn on either if we had JP13 set to 1-2. i followed this, but i still havent been able to turn on the fans. Someone also said to use the HN_WT-2 water sensor to make the fans work, but ive tried it, and to no avail.
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08-21-2007 | 09:56 AM
#3
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From: Torino, Italy
I have a '99 1.8 NB Italian Spec.
My JP8 is 1-2 since years and it's working perfectly, like anything else (fans, fans control, auxliary output, analog output, wt, at, o2 clamp, water injection etc..) except knock and ignition advance monitor.
Look carefully on the emu circuit board at the jp8 position. The installation manual shows wrong position of pin 1!!
My JP8 is 1-2 since years and it's working perfectly, like anything else (fans, fans control, auxliary output, analog output, wt, at, o2 clamp, water injection etc..) except knock and ignition advance monitor.
Look carefully on the emu circuit board at the jp8 position. The installation manual shows wrong position of pin 1!!
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08-21-2007 | 01:12 PM
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
I keep making this offer, and I keep getting no takers. If anyone with a 1.8 in the So.Cal area wants to volunteer to come to my place in Carlsbad, I will happily scope your ignition system and you can become known as the hero who finally helped to settle this once and for all. Doesn't matter if you have an EMU or not, so long as the stock ECU and stock ignition coils are still in place.
Ideally, I'd like to test a '94-'95, a '96-'97, a non-COP NB, and a COP NB.
Ideally, I'd like to test a '94-'95, a '96-'97, a non-COP NB, and a COP NB.
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08-21-2007 | 03:57 PM
#7
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From: The Netherlands
I keep making this offer, and I keep getting no takers. If anyone with a 1.8 in the So.Cal area wants to volunteer to come to my place in Carlsbad, I will happily scope your ignition system and you can become known as the hero who finally helped to settle this once and for all. Doesn't matter if you have an EMU or not, so long as the stock ECU and stock ignition coils are still in place.
Ideally, I'd like to test a '94-'95, a '96-'97, a non-COP NB, and a COP NB.
Ideally, I'd like to test a '94-'95, a '96-'97, a non-COP NB, and a COP NB.
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08-22-2007 | 11:31 AM
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Set the channel A input to DC coupled, 2 volts / div (appx) and set the Y-POS to offset the trace down to the lowest division on the scale. (On some scopes you'll have to put the trigger into continuous while doing the offset adjustment). Set the trigger to channel A rising edge, at about 3 volts or so. Start with the timescale at maybe 10msec/div. You'll have to tinker with that one.
If you do not yet have an EMU/EMB installed: Disconnect the plugs going to both coils (or to the igniter on a 1.6) and attach the probe to the trigger line of one of them. I believe that these wires are brown and brown/yellow on all years. We need to measure the signal without the load of the igniter which, on a 1.6 anyway, seems to be fairly low impedance and really uglifies the trace.
If you already have an EMU installed, simply probe between the ECU and the EMU. Ground the probe wherever convenient.
Crank the engine, and observe the scope. Adjust the timescale and trigger until you can see both the high-level and low-level events. I believe that the ignition pulse is active-high. Since the load is disconnected, you should have a nice clean shelf on each ignition event. Determine the magnitude of the high-level trace by reading the scale, and you have your ignition trigger voltage.
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09-05-2007 | 04:47 PM
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Voltmeter
Well I tried to measure it with a standard voltmeter and it showed less than 5 Volts. So I take my chances at 5V until proven otherwise. It's running beautifully in the meantime.
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09-05-2007 | 05:09 PM
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
A voltmeter is useless for measurements like this. The signal changes more rapidly than even an expensive DVM like my Fluke 77 can measure.
For what its worth, I remember a while back seeing a little gadget that plugs into a Nintendo Gameboy and turns it into a 4-channel DVM/scope. Very primitive interface, but it seemed like the hand-heldedness of it would make the system quite versatile. Alas it is no longer available new, but I thought it might interest some folks. Here's a link to the site that originally carried it, and still provides software support: http://www.educatingmario.com/
For what its worth, I remember a while back seeing a little gadget that plugs into a Nintendo Gameboy and turns it into a 4-channel DVM/scope. Very primitive interface, but it seemed like the hand-heldedness of it would make the system quite versatile. Alas it is no longer available new, but I thought it might interest some folks. Here's a link to the site that originally carried it, and still provides software support: http://www.educatingmario.com/
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09-06-2007 | 02:18 AM
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A voltmeter is useless for measurements like this. The signal changes more rapidly than even an expensive DVM like my Fluke 77 can measure.
For what its worth, I remember a while back seeing a little gadget that plugs into a Nintendo Gameboy and turns it into a 4-channel DVM/scope. Very primitive interface, but it seemed like the hand-heldedness of it would make the system quite versatile. Alas it is no longer available new, but I thought it might interest some folks. Here's a link to the site that originally carried it, and still provides software support: http://www.educatingmario.com/
For what its worth, I remember a while back seeing a little gadget that plugs into a Nintendo Gameboy and turns it into a 4-channel DVM/scope. Very primitive interface, but it seemed like the hand-heldedness of it would make the system quite versatile. Alas it is no longer available new, but I thought it might interest some folks. Here's a link to the site that originally carried it, and still provides software support: http://www.educatingmario.com/
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10-11-2007 | 05:42 PM
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Resurrecting an older thread here, because we have some new data.
Reverant over on M.net has scoped the ignition signals on an '01 and determined that the signal level from the ECU to the ignitior is in fact 12 volts. Whether the same is true for the '99-'00 or the 1.8 NAs is still not known with certainty, however taken together with the earlier reports of ignition trouble on these cars it does strongly suggest that 1.8 engines in general may use 12v ignition control.
Reverant over on M.net has scoped the ignition signals on an '01 and determined that the signal level from the ECU to the ignitior is in fact 12 volts. Whether the same is true for the '99-'00 or the 1.8 NAs is still not known with certainty, however taken together with the earlier reports of ignition trouble on these cars it does strongly suggest that 1.8 engines in general may use 12v ignition control.
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10-11-2007 | 08:54 PM
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Well, I'm still waiting for somebody with a 1.8 NA to come out to my garage in Carlsbad so that I can lay a 'scope probe on it and settle this once and for all. But so far, no takers. C'mon people, I know that several of you live in the San Diego / LA area. Don't you want to become known as the dude who finally stepped up and provided the answer to The Ultimate Question.
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