O2 clamp but car is still running lean help please
#1
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Installed the o2 clamp and the car still leans out on top end. i even get a hesitation around 4000rpm maybe even a detonation after it passes 4000rpm it pulls fine again. what could be the issue here. my log is below with the appropriate file.
log http://www.mediafire.com/?0ygjzlbugxe
file http://www.mediafire.com/?5dz44idiyfx
please help me out and if i need to make any changes let me know .
log http://www.mediafire.com/?0ygjzlbugxe
file http://www.mediafire.com/?5dz44idiyfx
please help me out and if i need to make any changes let me know .
#2
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Maybe i have some ideas.
Donīt start an autotune run with "0"īs in the i/j map. You would run lean until the emu correctīs it, and you will get some nice detonations
Use something about "25" instead of "0" in the upper boost and rpm area.
It is going to run very rich, but the emu correctīs them down after some time.
And use an 1sec start time and 0,5% feedback amount in the a/f target setting.
Also i would recommend to disable your unused mapīs, only for a clean overview.
Also change the voltage of your o2clamp to something about 0,38V.
An easy way to check the correct setting of the clamp is to activate the clamp in idle, set the tps in the afr target parameter to 1% (to start the autotune) and look at the corrections made by the emu in the i/j map. If the correction factor is about +/- 1 the clamp is set fine.
Which firmware are you using ?
Donīt start an autotune run with "0"īs in the i/j map. You would run lean until the emu correctīs it, and you will get some nice detonations
Use something about "25" instead of "0" in the upper boost and rpm area.
It is going to run very rich, but the emu correctīs them down after some time.
And use an 1sec start time and 0,5% feedback amount in the a/f target setting.
Also i would recommend to disable your unused mapīs, only for a clean overview.
Also change the voltage of your o2clamp to something about 0,38V.
An easy way to check the correct setting of the clamp is to activate the clamp in idle, set the tps in the afr target parameter to 1% (to start the autotune) and look at the corrections made by the emu in the i/j map. If the correction factor is about +/- 1 the clamp is set fine.
Which firmware are you using ?
Last edited by chico; 11-05-2007 at 11:29 AM.
#3
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To generate this I simply put "80" in the leftmost (500) and rightmost (8000) cells of the +10 PSI row, then selected the whole area shown highlighted, and used the "interpolate 4 corners) function. In this setup it will probably run rich initially, but it gives the autotune a much easier job to do.
And use an 1sec start time and 0,5% feedback amount in the a/f target setting.
I'd also suggest that you fill out the portions of the A/F target map below 2,000 RPM, just for kicks.
Also change the voltage of your o2clamp to something about 0,38V.
An easy way to check the correct setting of the clamp is to activate the clamp in idle, set the tps in the afr target parameter to 1% (to start the autotune) and look at the corrections made by the emu in the i/j map. If the correction factor is about +/- 1 the clamp is set fine.
#5
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His clamp was pre-set to 0.37 volts when shipped. Should be good to go.
It's simpler than that. You don't need to tweak the TPS or AFR stuff, just go to the Aux Output map and manually switch all the cells to "ON" while observing the WBO2 sensor. When the clamp engages, the ECU will drive the idle mixture very rich. (It will eventually throw a CEL on an OBD-II system as well.)
It's simpler than that. You don't need to tweak the TPS or AFR stuff, just go to the Aux Output map and manually switch all the cells to "ON" while observing the WBO2 sensor. When the clamp engages, the ECU will drive the idle mixture very rich. (It will eventually throw a CEL on an OBD-II system as well.)
I only recommended my procedure because it shows a little bit the routines of the emu. The benefit is a little learning effect and practice with the emu.
But finally i have to say Joe, there is nothing more to say
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I feel so unworthy now
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Sometimes iīm angry about my "slow" english, it tooks a lot of time to write something. But it will get better.
#6
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great help guys
How does my ignition map look
i have a decent size front mount and am running 93 octane. no water methanole yet. could that cause my detonation. or should i retard it a bit more. i am running a open wastegate and so i can not hear many pings or anything else. i want to run on the safe side.
for my friend chico vielen danke ich wohnte in deutschland 5 jahren Regensburg bereich.
How does my ignition map look
i have a decent size front mount and am running 93 octane. no water methanole yet. could that cause my detonation. or should i retard it a bit more. i am running a open wastegate and so i can not hear many pings or anything else. i want to run on the safe side.
for my friend chico vielen danke ich wohnte in deutschland 5 jahren Regensburg bereich.
#8
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Also, you speak English much better than I speak German.
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ok what can i say, you guys are life savers once again. drove the car and everything seamed to be great. A/f is great and the car runs strong. so strong that i don't have a clutch any more. Thanks for making it work i really appreciate everything. ![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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:bowd own:![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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: bowdown:![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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#13
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Good to hear that it's working for you.
As an aside, I would suggest rescaling your maps. You don't need all those rows in the non-boosted area (two rows will handle it: one at -14.5, the next at -1) however I would suggest adding more headroom at the bottom. Even if you don't *plan* to ever run at 15 PSI, you should have some data there to cover yourself if the turbo occasionally spikes that high.
As an aside, I would suggest rescaling your maps. You don't need all those rows in the non-boosted area (two rows will handle it: one at -14.5, the next at -1) however I would suggest adding more headroom at the bottom. Even if you don't *plan* to ever run at 15 PSI, you should have some data there to cover yourself if the turbo occasionally spikes that high.
#14
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Good to hear that it's working for you.
As an aside, I would suggest rescaling your maps. You don't need all those rows in the non-boosted area (two rows will handle it: one at -14.5, the next at -1) however I would suggest adding more headroom at the bottom. Even if you don't *plan* to ever run at 15 PSI, you should have some data there to cover yourself if the turbo occasionally spikes that high.
As an aside, I would suggest rescaling your maps. You don't need all those rows in the non-boosted area (two rows will handle it: one at -14.5, the next at -1) however I would suggest adding more headroom at the bottom. Even if you don't *plan* to ever run at 15 PSI, you should have some data there to cover yourself if the turbo occasionally spikes that high.
-jasko
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ok what can i say, you guys are life savers once again. drove the car and everything seamed to be great. A/f is great and the car runs strong. so strong that i don't have a clutch any more. Thanks for making it work i really appreciate everything. ![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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:bowd own:![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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: bowdown:![bow down](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/bowdown.gif)
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By the way, which base timing does your car have?