EMU acting strange - rumming pig rich - suggestions?
#1
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Posts: 1,558
Total Cats: 105
EMU acting strange - running pig rich - suggestions?
Hi Guys,
I am writing this for a German friend, who has got some problems with his EMU + turbo setup.
Some informations about the setup:
1.9 NB (99)
Garrett GT28R (imho)
FMIC
EMU
ZT-2 wideband O2
Begi FMU
old 360cc injectors (new 460cc inectors)
He was changing the injectors + a DIY dual feed fual rail and after that -
The car is not running right anymore.
Syptoms:
- Car is bogging after ~5.500 rpm (due to running pig rich)
- No hot start
We already tried the injector lag times, b/a injector settings, even tried switching back to his old injectors. No change (only the hot start got better)
The EMU autotune is acting completly strange and getting him into running even richer. With the autotune deactivated and manual changes to the I/J-map the car runs better - but if you put autotune back to work its getting bad again.
One thing is - he has no O2 clamp up to now - I think this might be part of his problems but even with the "old" setup and injectors its not working correct.
He already:
- tried different throttle body
- disconnected bov
- checked wiring
Any suggestions on what could cause this problem? Begi FMU?
For the ones with some knowledge in German language (we've seen there are a few of them):
http://forum.mx-5-sportive.com/dc/dc...id=41175&page=
Greets and thanks for your help!
I am writing this for a German friend, who has got some problems with his EMU + turbo setup.
Some informations about the setup:
1.9 NB (99)
Garrett GT28R (imho)
FMIC
EMU
ZT-2 wideband O2
Begi FMU
old 360cc injectors (new 460cc inectors)
He was changing the injectors + a DIY dual feed fual rail and after that -
The car is not running right anymore.
Syptoms:
- Car is bogging after ~5.500 rpm (due to running pig rich)
- No hot start
We already tried the injector lag times, b/a injector settings, even tried switching back to his old injectors. No change (only the hot start got better)
The EMU autotune is acting completly strange and getting him into running even richer. With the autotune deactivated and manual changes to the I/J-map the car runs better - but if you put autotune back to work its getting bad again.
One thing is - he has no O2 clamp up to now - I think this might be part of his problems but even with the "old" setup and injectors its not working correct.
He already:
- tried different throttle body
- disconnected bov
- checked wiring
Any suggestions on what could cause this problem? Begi FMU?
For the ones with some knowledge in German language (we've seen there are a few of them):
http://forum.mx-5-sportive.com/dc/dc...id=41175&page=
Greets and thanks for your help!
Last edited by Zaphod; 04-08-2008 at 08:48 AM.
#3
The EMU Autotune tries to tune off the WBO2. You say when you turn off autotune it gets better? Perhaps the source of the problem is the O2. I am new to EMU, but that is where I would look. Also, the injectors need to be the same high impedenence as the stock units. He needs to be sure of that as well.
#5
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Posts: 1,558
Total Cats: 105
Injectors are high impedance.
Strange thing is - everything worked fine until the new injectors came into play - but now the car doesn't even run right with the old injectors.
Greets
Strange thing is - everything worked fine until the new injectors came into play - but now the car doesn't even run right with the old injectors.
Greets
#6
Hi,
I´m the Friend with the Problem...
My english is older then my car, but i try it.
The last year i drove with the setup Sven postet, but with 230cc (original NB). Then i got sometimes a little problem. If i acclerate from 1st till 3rd Gear, the rev stoped like turning ign off, in the moment i shift to 4 Gear. I thought that i need bigger Injectors, so I put 460cc #2010 in an a dual fuel rail.
But then, no hot start. Hot start was better with 280:300 Inj before - after Setting, but only sometimes.
The big Problem is the up and down AFR @5500rpm @9psi. If i make a zero Map, the first run is lean, but ran through the revs till 7200rpm. Then the second run through the Map the autotune function leaned @5500rpm more, but before and after 5500rpm it riched the map. At the third run through the map the afr dances from 21 to 9,6 @5500rpm. The I/J Adj.Map shows then about -60 in the field.
With the 460cc its like ign cut @5500rpm.
I put the 360cc from the gtx in and now the car better hot starts, but the problem @5500rpm is the same, only a litte bit smoother.
If i turn autotune off, I can make some runs, but then the problem @5500rpm is the same.
I have no Knock Logging working.
Greetz
Sandro
I´m the Friend with the Problem...
My english is older then my car, but i try it.
The last year i drove with the setup Sven postet, but with 230cc (original NB). Then i got sometimes a little problem. If i acclerate from 1st till 3rd Gear, the rev stoped like turning ign off, in the moment i shift to 4 Gear. I thought that i need bigger Injectors, so I put 460cc #2010 in an a dual fuel rail.
But then, no hot start. Hot start was better with 280:300 Inj before - after Setting, but only sometimes.
The big Problem is the up and down AFR @5500rpm @9psi. If i make a zero Map, the first run is lean, but ran through the revs till 7200rpm. Then the second run through the Map the autotune function leaned @5500rpm more, but before and after 5500rpm it riched the map. At the third run through the map the afr dances from 21 to 9,6 @5500rpm. The I/J Adj.Map shows then about -60 in the field.
With the 460cc its like ign cut @5500rpm.
I put the 360cc from the gtx in and now the car better hot starts, but the problem @5500rpm is the same, only a litte bit smoother.
If i turn autotune off, I can make some runs, but then the problem @5500rpm is the same.
I have no Knock Logging working.
Greetz
Sandro
#8
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Posts: 1,558
Total Cats: 105
Here you go...
Sandro just e-mailed me the logs:
What I noticed is that at ~5.500 rpm when the injector output already starts to drop again the EMU seems to shoot in a hell lot of fuel - AFR go down to ~10.
There are 4 logs with the according EM2 files. All files are named in the same way. (gear, injector size, correction factor)
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1207837663
Thanks for your help
What I noticed is that at ~5.500 rpm when the injector output already starts to drop again the EMU seems to shoot in a hell lot of fuel - AFR go down to ~10.
There are 4 logs with the according EM2 files. All files are named in the same way. (gear, injector size, correction factor)
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1207837663
Thanks for your help
#10
This is the info regarding the hot start issue I recieved from Gary at Track Dog Racing:
On the not starting when it is hot, we had this issue with one of our '99 cars. When it reached 180 deg and you turned the car off, you could not start it until it cooled down. I did not notice this while I was tuning the customer's car because I would not turn the car off while I was on the road tuning. Later we discovered this after a ton of replace and test again with new Greddy and Harnesses. We also kept testing the water sensor options on the Greddy until we found the most accurate reading unit. The default unit that Greddy picked was not as accurate of a reading as NH-WT-2. Same goes for the Air temp, NH-AT-1.
Because the default settings are not accurate into the Greddy I do NOT use the Auto Tune feature. Tuning looks at air and water as it is tuning and if it is not accurate then its calculations are not accurate. Try these settings under the Air and Water settings in the Vehicle setup section.
Next turn on the Map "Water Temp Adjustment Map" and set 15 at 176 deg and 20 at 190-233 deg. This will offset the temperature the Greddy sees incase it is temperature related starting issues. The weird thing about this it has only happened on 1 car out of 6 cars setup. I do not know why, but we did fix it.
On the not starting when it is hot, we had this issue with one of our '99 cars. When it reached 180 deg and you turned the car off, you could not start it until it cooled down. I did not notice this while I was tuning the customer's car because I would not turn the car off while I was on the road tuning. Later we discovered this after a ton of replace and test again with new Greddy and Harnesses. We also kept testing the water sensor options on the Greddy until we found the most accurate reading unit. The default unit that Greddy picked was not as accurate of a reading as NH-WT-2. Same goes for the Air temp, NH-AT-1.
Because the default settings are not accurate into the Greddy I do NOT use the Auto Tune feature. Tuning looks at air and water as it is tuning and if it is not accurate then its calculations are not accurate. Try these settings under the Air and Water settings in the Vehicle setup section.
Next turn on the Map "Water Temp Adjustment Map" and set 15 at 176 deg and 20 at 190-233 deg. This will offset the temperature the Greddy sees incase it is temperature related starting issues. The weird thing about this it has only happened on 1 car out of 6 cars setup. I do not know why, but we did fix it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
Frank_and_Beans
Supercharger Discussion
13
09-12-2016 08:17 PM
graexodus
Miata parts for sale/trade
5
10-26-2015 01:48 PM
Motorsport-Electronics
ECUs and Tuning
0
09-05-2015 08:02 AM