View Poll Results: How much Wheel Power on a Stock Engine? Are you over?
300Hp on a stock B6 (1600cc Engine)
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Voters: 132. You may not vote on this poll
How much are you making on a 100% STOCK MOTOR?
#23
'92 motor... taken from a granny-driven 258k mile car... stock internals.
SR20det T25
Megaquirt (standalone by Brain)
Last dyno made 200whp/185ftlbs.
Since then, I've swapped to COPS and added 6* of timing across the board. Feels a bit faster now and only running 12psi daily. Butt dyno says I'm making 200whp@12psi.
Problem is my T25 spikes to around 14.5psi and settles to about 12psi at redline. I've bumped up the EBC a lot and it just won't hold the boost up high. Could be a wastegate or flow issue... but if the damn thing would hold 14psi to redline, it's make 220whp or so. My 2.25" Borlas don't help.
Every day this motor continues to run is a blessing from the Boost God.
Attached is my last run... actually hit 202whp on the previous run, but this one had the final "tune" on it. Bumpy AFR in the midrange was a product of a poorly tuned Accel Enrichment table... current datalogs show board-straight AFR's through there.
SR20det T25
Megaquirt (standalone by Brain)
Last dyno made 200whp/185ftlbs.
Since then, I've swapped to COPS and added 6* of timing across the board. Feels a bit faster now and only running 12psi daily. Butt dyno says I'm making 200whp@12psi.
Problem is my T25 spikes to around 14.5psi and settles to about 12psi at redline. I've bumped up the EBC a lot and it just won't hold the boost up high. Could be a wastegate or flow issue... but if the damn thing would hold 14psi to redline, it's make 220whp or so. My 2.25" Borlas don't help.
Every day this motor continues to run is a blessing from the Boost God.
Attached is my last run... actually hit 202whp on the previous run, but this one had the final "tune" on it. Bumpy AFR in the midrange was a product of a poorly tuned Accel Enrichment table... current datalogs show board-straight AFR's through there.
#27
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I made 360hp on a stock 95 BP and ran it for 8 months like that.
Was using a custom Turbo setup with a T3/T4 50 Trim. 18-19psi.
3" Exhaust
FJO 341B ECU (Also did the same on a TECII)
Max RPM was 7650. More and I would blow Oil pumps.
Trying to decide how much I want to push my 2000 Engine with the Megasquirt. I don't like swapping motors when I have a car with A/C, PS, ABS etc..
Was using a custom Turbo setup with a T3/T4 50 Trim. 18-19psi.
3" Exhaust
FJO 341B ECU (Also did the same on a TECII)
Max RPM was 7650. More and I would blow Oil pumps.
Trying to decide how much I want to push my 2000 Engine with the Megasquirt. I don't like swapping motors when I have a car with A/C, PS, ABS etc..
#32
Marc,
It would be easy to extrapolate that you could hit 400rwhp with a NB 1.8 motor (given its far better head and cams) if you ran the same intake, turbo setup & boost and exhaust as your 1995 1.8. However, I don't know if the better flowing NB head will make up for the fact that the '00 motor has higher static compression than the NA motor (per Randy @ Solo Miata, '95 was 8.8 compression vs. 9.5 for '00) and is probably less tolerant of both boost and timing when you exceed 12 psi. If your engine management system can SAFELY log knock counts, you can do some optimization runs (third gear pulls on "safe" roads or 4th gear on a chassis dyno) to see if less boost (15psi with more timing) gives more usable street power than more boost (18psi with less timing).
Then again, it's relatively easy to run a 50/50 water/methanol system that will allow you to run 18-19psi of boost with "good" timing. It may be pain to keep re-filling the meth container but detonation (stock Miata ring lands and rods quickly expire when detonation occurs at high boost) won't be a problem and your street tires should enough of a "fuse" to protect the stock trans and rearend for normal street driving.
It would be easy to extrapolate that you could hit 400rwhp with a NB 1.8 motor (given its far better head and cams) if you ran the same intake, turbo setup & boost and exhaust as your 1995 1.8. However, I don't know if the better flowing NB head will make up for the fact that the '00 motor has higher static compression than the NA motor (per Randy @ Solo Miata, '95 was 8.8 compression vs. 9.5 for '00) and is probably less tolerant of both boost and timing when you exceed 12 psi. If your engine management system can SAFELY log knock counts, you can do some optimization runs (third gear pulls on "safe" roads or 4th gear on a chassis dyno) to see if less boost (15psi with more timing) gives more usable street power than more boost (18psi with less timing).
Then again, it's relatively easy to run a 50/50 water/methanol system that will allow you to run 18-19psi of boost with "good" timing. It may be pain to keep re-filling the meth container but detonation (stock Miata ring lands and rods quickly expire when detonation occurs at high boost) won't be a problem and your street tires should enough of a "fuse" to protect the stock trans and rearend for normal street driving.
#36
Once I get a 6 speed and build my spare block I plan to upgrade the compressor and see how much power I can make on the stock head/block before it pops.
#39
Well, got the car on the road and running WG 5.5psi with a safe tune right now.
A/F is hovering around 10.8-11:1. We'll get it closer to 11.5:1 when we hook up the boost controller and turn up the boost. I am still amazed that I got almost 190whp from 5.5psi, without even touching the cam gears. My tuner said we could probably play with the cam gear and get it up to 200whp. We'll worry about that when we get the boost turned up, which might happen tonight. :P
A/F is hovering around 10.8-11:1. We'll get it closer to 11.5:1 when we hook up the boost controller and turn up the boost. I am still amazed that I got almost 190whp from 5.5psi, without even touching the cam gears. My tuner said we could probably play with the cam gear and get it up to 200whp. We'll worry about that when we get the boost turned up, which might happen tonight. :P