headed to the strip tonight
#47
Cpt. Slow
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Are you seriously slipping the clutch in 1st?
I know I only have a few drag runs to my name, but I always assumed it was best to drop the clutch, and adjust your starting rpm and boost (good luck) off the line to compensate for too much bogging or wheel spin.
That way you're not putting as much heat through the clutch, lending it to slip later on in 4th.
I know if I burned my SPEC clutch a little too much, I wouldn't see slippage issues in 1st and 2nd, but for a few miles down the road it was useless in 4th and 5th, which is where clutches show their issues.
I know I only have a few drag runs to my name, but I always assumed it was best to drop the clutch, and adjust your starting rpm and boost (good luck) off the line to compensate for too much bogging or wheel spin.
That way you're not putting as much heat through the clutch, lending it to slip later on in 4th.
I know if I burned my SPEC clutch a little too much, I wouldn't see slippage issues in 1st and 2nd, but for a few miles down the road it was useless in 4th and 5th, which is where clutches show their issues.
#52
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I HAVE smoked my clutch doing this once. Just once though, then I figured it out. Clutch is still fine and holds plenty o powah.
#53
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It's probably a confusion of terminology. In drag-racing, we would refer to modulating throttle and clutch on the launch as "slipping the clutch" [verb]. That'd be distinct from "dumping the clutch" or "riding the clutch" and not to be confused with "a slipping clutch" [noun].
#55
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Yeah, I'm sure my EMB has that feature. ![Thefinger](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/thefinger.gif)
I probably need to start another thread in a different section for this question but, anyone know anything about going return fuel on an nb?
I know I need to remove the in tank fpr and aim the fuel dump at the pump for cooling, then replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail with a stock 94-97 fpr, then run a return line into the afpr and back to the tank.
My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
![Thefinger](https://www.miataturbo.net/images/smilies/thefinger.gif)
I probably need to start another thread in a different section for this question but, anyone know anything about going return fuel on an nb?
I know I need to remove the in tank fpr and aim the fuel dump at the pump for cooling, then replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail with a stock 94-97 fpr, then run a return line into the afpr and back to the tank.
My question is don't I have to maintain 60psi for the car to run properly? With the NA fpr I'll only be seeing 45psi correct?
#57
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If so all you have to do is lower the injector size and it should automatically fix it for you.
So say you have 600cc injectors, calculate it from 60psi to 45psi and you'll be down to 520cc. Changing that in the ve settings and you should be good to go.
Fuel Injector Calculator from WitchHunter Performance
#58
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Cool, that's good to hear. I just ordered a 97 rail w/fpr off of eBay for 32 bucks shipped. Now I'm trying to find a good deal on the afpr.
Having a lower base pressure will probably make it easier to run the yellow rx8 injectors with my EMB anyway, since the only way to pull fuel with it is to mess with the injector correction factor table. Maybe I can leave that alone and see what afrs I see @43lbs with the 425cc.
Im definitely looking forward to starting this project, since I haven't seen any good write-ups on it, maybe I'll take a lot of pics and try to write a how-to?
Having a lower base pressure will probably make it easier to run the yellow rx8 injectors with my EMB anyway, since the only way to pull fuel with it is to mess with the injector correction factor table. Maybe I can leave that alone and see what afrs I see @43lbs with the 425cc.
Im definitely looking forward to starting this project, since I haven't seen any good write-ups on it, maybe I'll take a lot of pics and try to write a how-to?
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